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Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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104 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBING - PART IVOn Dow Crag, Coniston, Cleasby/Matheson climbed the h<strong>and</strong>some groovebeh<strong>in</strong>d Woodhouse's P<strong>in</strong>nacle to produce Close to Critical <strong>and</strong> over on DoveCrag Graham/Birkett renewed their acqua<strong>in</strong>tance with the North Buttress byclimb<strong>in</strong>g the wither<strong>in</strong>g Fast <strong>and</strong> Furious.On the Bowderstone Crags the impend<strong>in</strong>g wall right <strong>of</strong> Lucifer was climbedby Jerry M<strong>of</strong>fat to give the as yet unrepeated De Qu<strong>in</strong>cy.1983By comparison this was a quiet year. It did however see the free ascent <strong>of</strong> thef<strong>in</strong>e hang<strong>in</strong>g pod left <strong>of</strong> Eclipse on Pavey Ark by Chris Hamper. This hadpreviously been climbed back <strong>in</strong> 1981 with some rests taken on runners but hadnever really been accepted. Also <strong>of</strong> note was the first route to breach thefuturistic crag right <strong>of</strong> Iron Crag Thirlmere's ma<strong>in</strong> buttress. This was theCommittal Chamber <strong>and</strong> was the work <strong>of</strong> Graham/Downer. Up on Scafelldur<strong>in</strong>g the course <strong>of</strong> guide book research Mart<strong>in</strong> Berz<strong>in</strong>s found the excellentZeya.1984New route activity started early with Downer/Bacon hard at work dur<strong>in</strong>g thew<strong>in</strong>ter months unearth<strong>in</strong>g the hillside north <strong>of</strong> Grange Bridge <strong>in</strong> Borrowdale toreveal Grange Crags, much to the chagr<strong>in</strong> <strong>of</strong> the owner <strong>of</strong> the surround<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>and</strong>.The end result was fifty worthwhile routes <strong>of</strong> all grades. They took their wirebrushes <strong>and</strong> spades to Bleak How <strong>in</strong> Langstrath where a similar operationproduced ten quality routes. Dave Hellier had earlier po<strong>in</strong>ted to the potential <strong>of</strong>this long-neglected crag with his ascent <strong>of</strong> the excellent Bleak How Buttress atthe end <strong>of</strong> 83.Two very technical routes appeared dur<strong>in</strong>g the year. One was Centerfold onRaven Langdale by Birkett <strong>and</strong> the other was Daylight Robbery on ReecastleWatendlath by Chris Sowden, stolen from under the local's noses. To round theyear <strong>of</strong>f Whillance/Armstong climbed the impressive th<strong>in</strong> crack betweenVik<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> Supernatural on Tophet Wall, Great Gable to produceIncantations.1985This year will be remembered most for the wettest summer for many years,<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> consequence attention was focused on the low-ly<strong>in</strong>g crags, with manyoutcrop-style routes <strong>and</strong> variations appear<strong>in</strong>g. Gate Crag <strong>in</strong> Eskdale saw anumber <strong>of</strong> f<strong>in</strong>e additions <strong>and</strong> the Eastern <strong>Fell</strong>s came under the scrut<strong>in</strong>y <strong>of</strong> BobSmith <strong>and</strong> John Earl, produc<strong>in</strong>g some good routes <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g their impressiveStern Test on Upper Thrang. In Langdale Birkett <strong>and</strong> friends developed theremote Cr<strong>in</strong>kle Gill produc<strong>in</strong>g a number <strong>of</strong> hard routes. As <strong>in</strong> 1984 Borrowdalecame <strong>in</strong> for much attention with the imm<strong>in</strong>ent production <strong>of</strong> a new guidebook.Dave Armstrong developed the steep Lower Knitt<strong>in</strong>g Howe <strong>and</strong> many m<strong>in</strong>orPhil Rigby on Maggie's Farm (E3), Pavey Ark. Pete Botterill 274

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