Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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104 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBING - PART IVOn Dow Crag, Coniston, Cleasby/Matheson climbed the handsome groovebehind Woodhouse's Pinnacle to produce Close to Critical and over on DoveCrag Graham/Birkett renewed their acquaintance with the North Buttress byclimbing the withering Fast and Furious.On the Bowderstone Crags the impending wall right of Lucifer was climbedby Jerry Moffat to give the as yet unrepeated De Quincy.1983By comparison this was a quiet year. It did however see the free ascent of thefine hanging pod left of Eclipse on Pavey Ark by Chris Hamper. This hadpreviously been climbed back in 1981 with some rests taken on runners but hadnever really been accepted. Also of note was the first route to breach thefuturistic crag right of Iron Crag Thirlmere's main buttress. This was theCommittal Chamber and was the work of Graham/Downer. Up on Scafellduring the course of guide book research Martin Berzins found the excellentZeya.1984New route activity started early with Downer/Bacon hard at work during thewinter months unearthing the hillside north of Grange Bridge in Borrowdale toreveal Grange Crags, much to the chagrin of the owner of the surrounding land.The end result was fifty worthwhile routes of all grades. They took their wirebrushes and spades to Bleak How in Langstrath where a similar operationproduced ten quality routes. Dave Hellier had earlier pointed to the potential ofthis long-neglected crag with his ascent of the excellent Bleak How Buttress atthe end of 83.Two very technical routes appeared during the year. One was Centerfold onRaven Langdale by Birkett and the other was Daylight Robbery on ReecastleWatendlath by Chris Sowden, stolen from under the local's noses. To round theyear off Whillance/Armstong climbed the impressive thin crack betweenVikings and Supernatural on Tophet Wall, Great Gable to produceIncantations.1985This year will be remembered most for the wettest summer for many years,and in consequence attention was focused on the low-lying crags, with manyoutcrop-style routes and variations appearing. Gate Crag in Eskdale saw anumber of fine additions and the Eastern Fells came under the scrutiny of BobSmith and John Earl, producing some good routes including their impressiveStern Test on Upper Thrang. In Langdale Birkett and friends developed theremote Crinkle Gill producing a number of hard routes. As in 1984 Borrowdalecame in for much attention with the imminent production of a new guidebook.Dave Armstrong developed the steep Lower Knitting Howe and many minorPhil Rigby on Maggie's Farm (E3), Pavey Ark. Pete Botterill 274
106 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBING - PART IVgems appeared through the valley.SummaryRock climbing has evolved and is still evolving. Equipment designed toprotect the climbers such as PA's, double nylon ropes, bolts, skyhooks, chocksand Friends now allow them to venture onto rock faces once thought toodangerous. Climbing walls and fitness programmes have been designed toincrease strength and technique (and compensate for English weather!).Climbing competitions are held in various countries — thankfully this is notgenerally done in Britain. Imagine the crags relegated to vertical sports fieldswith top ropes flowing down them and closed for the day for a competitionsponsored by a cigarette company!All this was unheard of or indeed unimagined when Napes Needle was firstclimbed. The top climbers of each generation have broken down the frontiers ofdifficulty. As to the future it is difficult to imagine the climbing scene in tenyears' time never mind another hundred years. Hopefully there will still be thatspecial mystique which draws climbers onto the crags of Lakeland.Action on the Climbing Wall at Ambleside. Ron Kenvon 276
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100 YEARS OFROCK CLIMBINGIN THELAKE
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EDITOR'S NOTESGeoff CramIn June 188
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4 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLET
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6 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLEb
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10 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
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Page 29 and 30: H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty 33for the
Page 31 and 32: H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty1892 Moss
Page 33 and 34: H.M.Kelly and J.H. Doughty1923 Toph
Page 35: 40 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
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Page 40 and 41: John Wilkinson 47men: Birkett, Peas
Page 44 and 45: John Wilkinson 53are now Hard Very
Page 46 and 47: John Wilkinson 57have radically tra
Page 51 and 52: John Wilkinson 6 5being made by the
Page 53 and 54: John Wilkinson6SWith the opening up
Page 59 and 60: Pete Whillance 73good routes on Low
Page 67 and 68: A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBIN
Page 69 and 70: A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBING
Page 71 and 72: Ron Kenyon and AlMurray 89climbed b
Page 73 and 74: Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 91spotligh
Page 77 and 78: Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 97In the E
Page 79: 102 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
Page 83 and 84: 110 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
Page 85 and 86: 112 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
Page 87 and 88: ROCK CLIMBING IN NORTHERN ITALYAl C
Page 89 and 90: AI Churcher 119Sergent and Caporal,
Page 91 and 92: 13 MILES FROM THE EQUATORRay Cassid
Page 93 and 94: Ray Cassidy 123and I suddenly found
Page 95 and 96: W. Heaton Cooper 127One element see
Page 97 and 98: June Parker 131show a new route bei
Page 99 and 100: 136 THE ABRAHAM COLLECTIONwas a for
Page 101 and 102: 140 THE WASDALE CLIMBING BOOKClimbi
Page 103 and 104: SCAFELL CENTRAL BUTTRESSG.S.SansomR
Page 105 and 106: G.S.Sansom 145bulge, above-mentione
Page 107 and 108: MORE OF C.B.Bill BirkettWhen the ed
Page 109 and 110: 150 MOREOFC.B.ground, rather overha
Page 111 and 112: 152 CLIMBING IN THE MIDDLE AGEStemp
Page 113 and 114: THE MAN WHO BROKE THE NEEDLEGraham
Page 115 and 116: G. Sutton 157tooth....'Ron's voice
Page 117 and 118: G. Sutton 159view; they must have b
Page 119 and 120: Ed Grindley 161A couple of hours la
Page 121 and 122: 164 THE MODERN ICARUS!This was now
Page 123 and 124: 166 THE MODERN ICARUS!Aware that I'
Page 125 and 126: Angela Soper 169whispered happily,
Page 127 and 128: 172 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 129 and 130: 174 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
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A. Harry Griffin 111the same mould
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A. Harry Griffin 179merged together
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182 WAY OUT WESTone of them picked
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184 WAY OUT WESTseverity it was of
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186 WAY OUT WESTwho made me a pair
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SCOTLANDThe Fell and Rock members c
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Jim Sutcliffe 193June Parker report
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NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESAlan Murray & P
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198 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESIvor the Bo
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200 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBLEAK HOW C
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202 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESJoker Man.
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204 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESPrivate Eye
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206 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTES6a. Climb t
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208 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBURNT CRAG
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210 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESYEW CRAGAut
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212 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESSilverstone
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214 IN MEMORIAMGladys died peaceful
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CLUB OFFICERS AND MEETS 225Libraria
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Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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