Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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Alan Murray and Phil Rigby 205Waving At Trains. 70ft. VS.Starts behind a large tree at a weeping groove.4c. Climb the groove to a ledge on the right. Up the overhung corner to a slab. Finishmore easily up a groove. Belay well back.J.D.Wilson, A.Wilson. 4/6/85.Off The Rails. 70ft. El.Start just left of Waving At Trains, behind a small groove.5b. Climb to the top of the pinnacle. Up left to a hanging flake. Use this to traverseright a few feet, then straight up the wall above. Belay as for Waving At Trains.J.D.Wilson, A.Wilson. 14/6/85.The Golden Bow. 130ft. E2.5b. Start up Hybrid to the overhang, traverse left underneath the overhang, up a shortgroove to the arete. Follow this to the top.Peter Strong, Dave Hinton. August 1984.Rock Aid. 70ft. E4.This route is on a buttress about 50 yards left of Track of the Cat and Niche.6a. Climb up to a right-sloping gangway and then up to a rest under a small overlap.Make hard moves up and left until an awkward escape left can be made onto the arete.Belay.D.Hall, D.Hinton. 25/7/85.The next two routes are on a shield-shaped buttress to the left of and at right-angles tothe previous routes.Air Attack. 40ft. E2.Take a line up the right-hand side of the shield. Start from a large tree and scramble upto a downward-pointing spike.5c. Bridge delicately up between the wall and spike. Move up to reasonable footholdson the wall. Follow some discontinuous cracks to an awkward exit at the top.D.Hinton, A. Wilson. 3/7/85.An Esperanto Degree. 40ft. El.Takes the left-hand side of the shield. Start as for Air Attack.5b. Climb the left-hand edge of the buttress overlooking a dirty gully, until a move outright can be made onto the face. Climb up to a small overlap. Over this leftwards to thetop.D.Hinton, A.Harrison. 11/9/84.The next two routes are on an isolated buttress about 100 yards left of the main area,which contains one previously recorded route, Trial Rib.The Niche. 60ft. E3.This route takes the obvious feature of this buttress, a triangular niche just under halfway up and to the left of Trial Rib. Gain a belay ledge by climbing up the arete a shortway (V.Diff) and traverse to about 15ft. below and slightly to the right of the niche. Pegbelay.6a. Enter the niche from the left-hand side (poorly protected), and continue out of it tothe top of the crag via a crack.D.Hall, P.Strong. June 1985.Track Of The Cat. 70ft. E4Takes a line to the left of The Niche. Belay as for that route.375
206 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTES6a. Climb the first few feet of The Niche to a poor runner, then traverse delicately lefton side pulls to a good hold and runners. Climb directly up the wall on long reaches to anawkward step onto a sloping ledge. Move right to easier ground and belay.D.Hall, D.Hinton. 3/7/85.THE QUARRY ESKDALE (164003)This quarry appears in the Great Gable guide, 1977.Rubble Run. 120ft. E2.Climbs a groove to the left of Moria. Start below white stained rock. The bottom ofthis route is very loose.5a. Climb the white rock to a narrow groove. Up this strenuously.HERON CRAG, ESKDALE (222030)Much of a Mouthful. 130ft. El.A direct start to Minor Sixty Niner.5b. Start up Steerpike and continue up the arete on its right-hand side to join MinorSixty Niner. Follow this to the top.Brian Davidson, Andy Smith. 27/7/85.YEW CRAG, ESKDALE (220018)Mission Impossible. 100ft. E2.Starts 10ft. left of Broken Arrow and ascends the steep clean buttress and obvioussentry box above.1. 45ft. 5c. Climb the wall easily leftwards to gain a high runner then pull right into thescoop/depression. Step left and follow the wall above direct to the left hand end of thelarge sloping ledge. Horizontal crack belay at the point of arrival.2. 55ft. 5c. Gain the overhanging sentry box by a desperate move from either left or right(small runners on left). Then climb direct to the top.K.Phizacklea, J.Daly. Pitch 1 - 25/2/85, Pitch 2 - 2/3/85.Steppin' Out. 100ft. H.V.S.Starts 15ft. left of Broken Arrow beneath the holly tree.5b. Climb the easy groove to the holly tree, pull up right to the base of a short cornercrack, climb it on the right hand side and make an awkward move back left to a ledgebeneath the obvious corner groove. Climb the strenuous groove pulling out right at thetop. Easier rocks leads to the top.J.Daly, K.Phizaklea. 9/3/85.DUDDON VALLEY-(DUNNERDALE)WALLOWBARROW GORGE (224966)Tales from the Riverbank. 130ft. El.Start a few feet right of the Cornflake block at the obvious crack.1. 30ft. 5a. Climb the overhanging crack to a ledge.2. 60ft. 5b. Climb the slabby wall on the right direct to a ledge. Follow the overhangingcrack in the wall on the left to a belay in the Cornflake groove.3. 40ft. 5c. Gain the overhung ledge above and to the right by a thin crack. Easier rockson the left lead to the top. Tree belay well back.D.Geere, K.Phizacklea, J.Daly (Alt) K.Garstang. 16/12/84.376
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100 YEARS OFROCK CLIMBINGIN THELAKE
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EDITOR'S NOTESGeoff CramIn June 188
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4 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLET
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6 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLEb
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10 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
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H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty 33for the
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H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty1892 Moss
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H.M.Kelly and J.H. Doughty1923 Toph
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John Wilkinson 47men: Birkett, Peas
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John Wilkinson 53are now Hard Very
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John Wilkinson 57have radically tra
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John Wilkinson 6 5being made by the
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John Wilkinson6SWith the opening up
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Pete Whillance 73good routes on Low
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A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBIN
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A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBING
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Ron Kenyon and AlMurray 89climbed b
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Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 91spotligh
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Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 97In the E
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102 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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106 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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110 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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112 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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ROCK CLIMBING IN NORTHERN ITALYAl C
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AI Churcher 119Sergent and Caporal,
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13 MILES FROM THE EQUATORRay Cassid
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Ray Cassidy 123and I suddenly found
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W. Heaton Cooper 127One element see
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June Parker 131show a new route bei
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136 THE ABRAHAM COLLECTIONwas a for
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140 THE WASDALE CLIMBING BOOKClimbi
Page 103 and 104: SCAFELL CENTRAL BUTTRESSG.S.SansomR
Page 105 and 106: G.S.Sansom 145bulge, above-mentione
Page 107 and 108: MORE OF C.B.Bill BirkettWhen the ed
Page 109 and 110: 150 MOREOFC.B.ground, rather overha
Page 111 and 112: 152 CLIMBING IN THE MIDDLE AGEStemp
Page 113 and 114: THE MAN WHO BROKE THE NEEDLEGraham
Page 115 and 116: G. Sutton 157tooth....'Ron's voice
Page 117 and 118: G. Sutton 159view; they must have b
Page 119 and 120: Ed Grindley 161A couple of hours la
Page 121 and 122: 164 THE MODERN ICARUS!This was now
Page 123 and 124: 166 THE MODERN ICARUS!Aware that I'
Page 125 and 126: Angela Soper 169whispered happily,
Page 127 and 128: 172 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 129 and 130: 174 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
Page 131 and 132: A. Harry Griffin 111the same mould
Page 133 and 134: A. Harry Griffin 179merged together
Page 135 and 136: 182 WAY OUT WESTone of them picked
Page 137 and 138: 184 WAY OUT WESTseverity it was of
Page 139 and 140: 186 WAY OUT WESTwho made me a pair
Page 141 and 142: SCOTLANDThe Fell and Rock members c
Page 143 and 144: Jim Sutcliffe 193June Parker report
Page 145 and 146: NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESAlan Murray & P
Page 147 and 148: 198 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESIvor the Bo
Page 149 and 150: 200 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBLEAK HOW C
Page 151 and 152: 202 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESJoker Man.
Page 153: 204 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESPrivate Eye
Page 157 and 158: 208 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBURNT CRAG
Page 159 and 160: 210 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESYEW CRAGAut
Page 161 and 162: 212 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESSilverstone
Page 163 and 164: 214 IN MEMORIAMGladys died peaceful
Page 165: CLUB OFFICERS AND MEETS 225Libraria
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Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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