Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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34 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBING - PART IThere you have an ideal: it seems to envisage solitary climbing, a completecasting aside of the shackles of the rope. Others, differently minded, may see inthe future an eager embracing of the rope and kindred aids, tending to thedevelopment of a highly mechanised form of climbing which will satisfy adifferent kind of aspiration. Whether the climbing of the future will take oneither or both of these forms, or perhaps develop along entirely different lines asyet undreamt of we cannot say. Enough for us that there is as yet no sign ofdiminution in interest in the sport. And if after another fifty years the Fell andRock Club decides to celebrate the centenary of the first ascent of the Needle byanother special number of the Journal, there seems no reason why the historianchosen to record the doings of those intervening years should not have at least asrich and varied a story to relate as that which we have tried to tell.LIST OF FIRST ASCENTS IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDERClassifiYear Name of Climb cation Crag Leader1826 Broad Stand M SCAFELL Not knownOld West Route E PILLAR ROCK J. Atkinson1850 Old Wall Route (?) E PILLAR ROCK C.A.O. Baumgartner1850 Corner above the Slab — PILLAR ROCK -. Whitehead1863 Slab and Notch Climb E PILLAR ROCK J.W.E. Conybeare1869 North or Penrith Climb M SCAFELL Major Ponsonbv1869 Mickledore Chimney M SCAFELL C.W. Dymond1872 Pendlebury Traverse M PILLAR ROCK F. Gardiner1882 Deep Ghyll (descent insnow) M SCAFELL A.L. Mumm1882 Deep Ghyll M SCAFELL W.P. Haskett-SmithCentral Gully M GREAT END W.P. Haskctt-SmithSouth-East Gully M GREAT END W.P. Haskett-SmithCentral Jordan Climb D PILLAR ROCK W.P. Haskett-SmithWest Jordan Climb I) PILLAR ROCK W.P. Haskett-SmithGreat Gully D PAVEY ARK W.P. Haskett-SmithWestern Gully — GIMMFR CRAG W.P. Haskett-Smith1884 High Man from JordanGap M SCAFELL W.P. Haskett-SmithSleep Ghyll S SCAFELL W.P. Haskett-Smith1886 The Needle D THE NAPES W.P. Haskett-SmithNeedle Ridge 0 THE NAPES W.P. Haskett-Smith1887 Great Chimney 1) PILLAR ROCK W.P. Haskett-SmithThe A rite M PILLAR ROCK W.P. Haskett-SmithThe Curtain 1) PILLAR ROCK W.P. Haskett-Smith1888 Great Gully D DOW CRAG G. HastingsSlingsby's Chimney 1) SCAFELL W. Cecil Slingsbv1889 Green Crag Gully M BUTTERMERE J.W. Robinson1890 Shamrock Gully S PILLAR ROCK G. H astings1891 North Climb 1) PILLAR ROCK W.P. Haskett-Smith
H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty1892 Moss Ghyll VD SCAFELL J.N. CollieGreat Gully S THE SCREES G. Hastings1892 Eagle's Nest RidgeDirect THE NAPESsGodfrey A. SollyGwynne's Chimney D PAVEY ARK H.A. GwynneArrowhead Ridge D THE NAPES W. Cecil SlingsbyOblique Chimney D GABLE CRAG J. Collier1893 Hopkinson and Tribe'sRoute 1) SCAFELL C. Hopkinson1893 Collier's Climb VS SCAFELL J. CollierPier's Ghyll LINGMELLsJ. CollierSergeant Crag Gully D LANGSTRATH O.G. JonesKern Knott's Chimney D KERN KNOTTS O.G. Jones1894 Shamrock Chimneys VD PILLAR ROCK R.S. Robinson1895 Intermediate Gully S DOW CRAG E.A. HopkinsonHopkinson's Crack DOW CRAGsC. Hopkinson1896 Jones's Route from DeepGhyll SCAFELLsO.G. JonesDoctor's Chimney D GABLE CRAG C.W. Patchell1897 C Gully THE SCREES O.G. JonesCentral Chimney DOW CRAGsO.G. JonesKern Knotts WestChimney D KERN KNOTTS O.G. JonesKern Knotts Crack S KERN KNOTTS O.G. JonesKeswick Brothers' Climb VD SCAFELL G.D. Abraham1898 Jones's Route Directfrom Lord's Rake S SCAFELL O.G. JonesJones and Collier'sClimb VI) SCAFELL O.G. JonesPisgah Buttress VD SCAFELL O.G. JonesWest Jordan Gully S PILLAR ROCK W.P. McCullochWest Wall Climb D SCAFELL J.W. RobinsonRake End Chimney D PAVEY ARK C.W. Barton1899 Ling Chimney VD THE NAPES W.N. LingWalker's Gully S PILLAR ROCK O.G. JonesBroadrick's Route DOW CRAG H.C. BroadrickEngineer's Chimney GABLE CRAGsG.T. Glover1901 New West Climb D PILLAR ROCK G.D. AbrahamSavage Gully VS PILLAR ROCK C.W. Barton1902 Shamrock ButtressRoute 1 M PILLAR ROCK G.D. AbrahamBowfell Buttress 1) BOWFELL T. ShawBroadrick's Crack S DOW CRAG R.W. BroadrickSouth-East Chimney D G1MMER CRAG E. Rigby1903 Abraham's Route S DOW CRAG G.D. AbrahamA Route GIMMER CRAGsE. RigbyBotterill's Slab VS SCAFELL F.W. BotterillBirkness Chimney BIRKNESS COOMBsN. Sheldon1904 C Buttress 1) DOW CRAG G.F. Woodhouse1905 Woodhouse's Route 1) DOW CRAG GF. Woodhouse1906 Nonh-Wesi Climb VS PILLAR ROCK F.W. Botterill1907 B Route GIMMER CRAGsH.B. Lyon
Page 1 and 2: 100 YEARS OFROCK CLIMBINGIN THELAKE
Page 6: EDITOR'S NOTESGeoff CramIn June 188
Page 9 and 10: 4 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLET
Page 11 and 12: 6 THE FIRST ASCENT OF NAPES NEEDLEb
Page 13 and 14: 10 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
Page 29: H.M.Kelly and J.H.Doughty 33for the
Page 33 and 34: H.M.Kelly and J.H. Doughty1923 Toph
Page 35: 40 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIM
Page 40 and 41: John Wilkinson 47men: Birkett, Peas
Page 44 and 45: John Wilkinson 53are now Hard Very
Page 46 and 47: John Wilkinson 57have radically tra
Page 51 and 52: John Wilkinson 6 5being made by the
Page 53 and 54: John Wilkinson6SWith the opening up
Page 59 and 60: Pete Whillance 73good routes on Low
Page 67 and 68: A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLIMBIN
Page 69 and 70: A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBING
Page 71 and 72: Ron Kenyon and AlMurray 89climbed b
Page 73 and 74: Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 91spotligh
Page 77 and 78: Ron Kenyon and Al Murray 97In the E
Page 79 and 80: 102 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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106 A SHORT HISTORY OF LAKELAND CLI
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110 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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112 THE NORTH-EAST SPUR OF THE DROI
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ROCK CLIMBING IN NORTHERN ITALYAl C
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AI Churcher 119Sergent and Caporal,
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13 MILES FROM THE EQUATORRay Cassid
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Ray Cassidy 123and I suddenly found
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W. Heaton Cooper 127One element see
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June Parker 131show a new route bei
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136 THE ABRAHAM COLLECTIONwas a for
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140 THE WASDALE CLIMBING BOOKClimbi
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SCAFELL CENTRAL BUTTRESSG.S.SansomR
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G.S.Sansom 145bulge, above-mentione
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MORE OF C.B.Bill BirkettWhen the ed
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150 MOREOFC.B.ground, rather overha
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152 CLIMBING IN THE MIDDLE AGEStemp
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THE MAN WHO BROKE THE NEEDLEGraham
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G. Sutton 157tooth....'Ron's voice
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G. Sutton 159view; they must have b
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Ed Grindley 161A couple of hours la
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164 THE MODERN ICARUS!This was now
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166 THE MODERN ICARUS!Aware that I'
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Angela Soper 169whispered happily,
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172 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
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174 THE WELL-OILED MACHINE - TWELVE
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A. Harry Griffin 111the same mould
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A. Harry Griffin 179merged together
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182 WAY OUT WESTone of them picked
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184 WAY OUT WESTseverity it was of
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186 WAY OUT WESTwho made me a pair
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SCOTLANDThe Fell and Rock members c
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Jim Sutcliffe 193June Parker report
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NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESAlan Murray & P
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198 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESIvor the Bo
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200 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBLEAK HOW C
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202 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESJoker Man.
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204 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESPrivate Eye
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206 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTES6a. Climb t
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208 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESBURNT CRAG
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210 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESYEW CRAGAut
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212 NEW CLIMBS AND NOTESSilverstone
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214 IN MEMORIAMGladys died peaceful
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CLUB OFFICERS AND MEETS 225Libraria
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Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

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