Number in series 70; Year of publication 1986 - Fell and Rock ...

A SHORT HISTORYOF LAKELAND CLIMBINGPART I (1802 - 1934)H.M.Kelly & J.H.DoughtyIntroductionReprinted from the FRCC Journal, Lakeland Number, 1936-37Climbing history, like the climber's rope, is made up" of three interwovenstrands, which we may designate as the rocks, the climbers, and the sport. It isour aim to trace the development of climbing in its broader technical aspects,but the tale must perforce be told largely in terms of men and routes. It is notproposed to mention all the first ascents made or the persons participating inthem. A full knowledge of these can be had from the lists of First Ascents in thenew Fell and Rock Club Guides. But as names will have to be mentioned, onlythose considered to have made some contribution to climbing history andtechnique will be used. Naturally any references to individuals will beconcerned mainly with the leaders of climbs; but it must not be thought that,even if the praises of seconds and other supporters on a climb are left unsung,they have been ignored in our study of the subject: space alone prevents theirinclusion. An interesting article could be written on 'Famous Seconds.' Such aone was Morley Wood, who became known as 'the perfect second', whoseunambitious mind and general self-effacement always led him to take secondplace, but did not stop him on occasion from taking greater risks than the leaderof the party himself in order that success should crown the efforts of the party.Then there were men like G.S. Sansom and C.F Holland, who, owing to theirown aptitude for leadership, were a source of inspiration in their seconding offirst ascents. Their climbing with others was in this respect a real partnershipand not merely a case of providing morale to the leader by being tied on to thesame rope.Regarding the development of climbing on its technical side, we candistinguish four main phases—(a) the period of the Easy Way, no matter whatkind of technical problem presented itself, (b) the Gully and Chimney period, (c)the Ridge and Arete (Rib) period, and (d) the Slab and Wall period. It is difficultto assign precise dates to these, as there is considerable overlapping. Perhaps thebest course is to recognise this and label them as follows—(a) up to 1880, (b)1880 to 1900, (c) 1890 to 1905, (d) 1905 to date. Apart from this overlappingthere have been also, as in all evolutionary processes, the usual anticipations andreversions, such as Eagle's Nest Direct, a (c) climb done in the (b) period, andSmuggler's Chimney, a (b) climb done in the (d) period. The accompanying timechart, and still more the list of first ascents at the end of this article, will indicatebroadly the scheme of classification and the reasons for it.179 Combined tacticts on Tophet Arete, the Napes. Abraham Collection