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Cultural Surveys Hawai‘i Job Code: HALEA 2Traditional and Historic BackgroundAbout the uplands, Handy and Handy (1972:276) note that “there never were extensiveupland plantations here [Haleakalā] comparable to those on Hawai‘i”. They go on to say:Maui, despite the high mountains forming the west and east sections, had an evenmore extensive dry area than Hawai‘i. All the country below the west and southslopes of Haleakalā specifically Kula, Honua‘ula, Kahikinui, and Kaupō in oldHawaiian times depended on the sweet potato. The leeward flanks of Haleakalā werenot as favorable for dry or upland taro culture as were the lower forest zones on theisland of Hawai‘i. However, some upland taro was grown, up to an altitude of 3,000feet (1972:276).While on a survey of Maui, Handy and Handy also note that they found “groves of wildbananas … along the north, east, and south slopes of Haleakalā the gigantic volcanic cone ofEast Maui; sometimes there were extensive groves, as above Hāna Bay at Maui’s easternmostpoint (Handy and Handy 1972:169). They also make a passing reference to the “tall luxurianttaro growing in forest humus or planted in decomposed lava on the slopes of Haleakalā ...”(Handy and Handy 1972:313). They are no doubt referring to the lower slopes of Haleakalā,below 3,000 ft.3.3 Early Historic Era to the Late-1800’s.3.3.1 An Expedition by Missionaries William Richards, Lorrin Andrews and Jonathan S.Green to the Summit of Haleakalā (1828)Lorrin Andrews and Jonathan F. Green, ordained missionaries, and Dr. Gerrit P. Judd,physician, were part of the third company of missionaries sent from New England to theSandwich Islands by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions (ABCFM).They arrived in Honolulu on March 30, 1828 and visited William Richards in Lahaina, touringMaui that summer. On August 21, 1828, Richards, Andrews, Judd and Green made the firstrecorded ascent of Haleakalā (U.S. Department of Interior, National Park Service 2006).The ascent was recorded by Gerrit Judd, and originally published by the Missionary Herald, apublication of the ABCFM in Boston. More recently, the narrative was made available in itsentirety in “Hawai‘i Nature Notes” (U.S. Department of Interior 2006, National Park Service).Under the subheading “Ascent of an Extinguished Volcano”, the narrative of Judd includesthe first western description of the native Haleakalā silversword (Argyroxiphium sandwicensessp. macrocephalum) and recounts the following:We rose early, and prepared for our ascent. Having procured a guide, we set out;taking only a scanty supply of provisions. Half way up the mountain, we foundplenty of good water, and at a convenient fountain, we filled our calabash for tea.By the sides of our path, we found plenty of ohelos, and, occasionally, a cluster ofstrawberries. On the lower part of the mountain, there is considerable timber; but aswe proceeded, it became scarce, and, as we approached the summit, almost the onlything, of the vegetable kind, which we saw, was a plant that grew to the height ofsix or eight feet, and produced a most beautiful flower. It seems to be peculiar tothis mountain, as our guide and servants made ornaments of it for their hats, toAPPENDIX F (2): Supplemental Cultural Impact Assessment For the Proposed Advanced 25Technology Solar Telescope (<strong>ATST</strong>) at Haleakalā High Altitude ObservatoriesTMK (2) 2-2-07:008
Cultural Surveys Hawai‘i Job Code: HALEA 2Traditional and Historic Backgrounddemonstrate to those below, that they had been to the top of the mountain. [U.S.Department of Interior 2006, National Park Service]The account continued with a description of the crater and of the cinder cones within. Thespectacle of Haleakalā appeared to have mesmerized the missionaries much the same way thatmodern tourists view a sunrise or sunset from the summit:It was nearly 5 o’clock, when we reached the summit; but we felt ourselves richlyrepaid for the toil of the day, by the grandeur and beauty of the scene, which atonce opened up to our view. The day was very fine. The clouds, which hung overthe mountains on West Maui, and which were scattered promiscuously, between usand the sea, were far below us; so that we saw the upper side of them, while thereflection of the sun painting their verge with varied tints, made them appear likeenchantment. We gazed on them with admiration, and longed for the pencil ofRaphael, to give perpetuity to a prospect, which awakened in our bosomsunutterable emotions. On the other side, we beheld the seat of Pele’s dreadful reign.We stood on the edge of a tremendous crater, down which, a single misstep wouldhave precipitated us 1,000 or 1,500 feet. This was once filled with liquid fire, andin it, we counted sixteen extinguished craters. To complete the grandeur of thescene, Mouna Kea and Mouna Roa lifted their lofty summits, and convinced us,that, though far above the clouds, we were far below the feet of the traveller whoascends the mountains of Hawaii. By this time, the sun had nearly sunk in thePacific; and we looked around for a shelter during the night. Our guide and otherattendants we had left far behind; and we reluctantly began our descent, keepingalong on the edge of the crater.As the explorers searched along the southwest rim of the crater, they were able to findancient rock shelters built, exactly as they assumed, by pre-contact Hawaiians:After descending about a mile, we met the poor fellows, who were hobbling alongon the sharp lava, as fast as their feet would suffer them. They were glad to stop forthe night, though they complained of the cold. We kindled a fire, and preparationswere made for tea and lodgings. The former we obtained with little trouble. Weboiled part of a chicken, roasted a few potatoes, and, gathering round the fire, wemade a comfortable meal; but the place of lodging, we obtained with somedifficulty. At length, we spread our mats and blankets in a small yard, enclosed,probably, by natives, when passing from one side of the island to the other. Wewere within twenty feet of the precipice, and the wind whistled across the valley,forcibly reminding us of a November evening in New England. The thermometerhad fallen from 77 to 43 (the next morning, the thermometer stood at 40), and weshivered with the cold. The night was long and comfortless.The next day, the 22 nd of August, 1828, the explorers returned to view the interior features ofthe crater and described the Ko‘olau and Kaupō Gaps:Early in the morning, we arose, and reascending the mountain, to its summit andcontemplated the beauties of the rising sun, and gazed a while longer, on thescenery before us. There seemed to be but two places, where the lava had found apassage to the sea, and through these channels, it must have rushed withAPPENDIX F (2): Supplemental Cultural Impact Assessment For the Proposed Advanced 26Technology Solar Telescope (<strong>ATST</strong>) at Haleakalā High Altitude ObservatoriesTMK (2) 2-2-07:008
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