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Cultural Surveys Hawai‘i Job Code: HALEA 2Traditional and Historic Backgroundtremendous velocity. Not having an instrument, we were unable to acertain theheight of the mountain. We presume it would not fall short of 10,000 feet. (This, Ibelieve, is the height at which it has been generally estimated) The circumferenceof the great crater, we judged to be no less than fifteen miles. We were anxious toremain longer, that we might descend into the crater, to examine the appearance ofthings below, and ascend other eminences; but as we were nearly out of provisions,and our work but just commenced, we finished our chicken and tea, and began ourdescent.3.3.2 The U.S. Navy Exploration of Haleakalā by Cmdr. Charles Wilkes (1841)On February 15, 1841, a contingent from the U.S. Navy Exploring Expedition sailed fromHilo, Hawai‘i to the island of Maui. Naturalist Charles Pickering, artist Joseph Drayton andbotanist William D. Brackenridge had been sent to Lahaina to organize an expedition to climb“Mauna Haleakalā ”. In Lahaina, the expedition was joined by the Reverend Lorrin Andrews, hisson, four students from the Men’s Seminary at Lahainaluna, and six kanakas [native bearers] tocarry food. (Andrews had made the ascent thirteen years earlier) Traveling by way of Waikapū,they were joined by Reverend Edward Bailey, headmaster of the Wailuku Female Seminary.They spent the first night at the home of Lane and Minor, “two Bostonians”, at a sugar plantationin Makawao (Wilkes 1852:167).The next day, as the expedition gained altitude, they noted the changing forest features:The face of Mauna Haleakalā is somewhat like that of Mauna Kea; it is destitute oftrees to the height of about two thousand feet; then succeeds a belt of forest, to theheight of six thousand feet, and again, the summit, which is cleft by a deep gorge,is bare.Our party found many interesting plants as they ascended Mauna Haleakalā, amongwhich were two species of Pelargonium [geranium], one with dark crimson, theother with lilac flowers; the Argyroziphium [Argyroxiphium sandwicense, subs.Macrocephalum, or Haleakalā silversword] began to disappear as they ascended,and its place was taken up by the silky species [Artemisia mauiensis, or ‘āhinahina]which is only found at high altitudes. Near the summit they found shrubby plants,consisting of Epacris [pūkiawe], Vaccinium [‘ōhelo], Edwardsia [māmane],Compositae [Dubautia plantagenia or na‘ena‘e], and various rubiaceous plants(Wilkes 1852:170).Having left the tree-line behind at 6,500 feet, the barren summit was attained and the windswere noted to have been driving with great velocity. The interior of the crater, as first viewed bythe expedition, was completely concealed by clouds. The elevation reading by barometer wasinterpreted as 10,200 feet. Barometric readings were continued as the expedition descended intothe crater:The crater of Haleakalā , if so it may be called, is a deep gorge, open at the northand east, forming a kind of elbow; the bottom of it, as ascertained by the barometer,was two thousand seven hundred and eighty-three feet below the summit peak, andtwo thousand and ninety-three feet below the wall. Although its sides are steep, yeta descent is practicable at almost any part of it. The inside of the crater was entirelyAPPENDIX F (2): Supplemental Cultural Impact Assessment For the Proposed Advanced 27Technology Solar Telescope (<strong>ATST</strong>) at Haleakalā High Altitude ObservatoriesTMK (2) 2-2-07:008
Cultural Surveys Hawai‘i Job Code: HALEA 2Traditional and Historic Backgroundbare of vegetation, and from its bottom arose some large hills of scoria and sand.Some of the latter of an ochre-red colour at the summit, with small craters in thecentre (Wilkes 1852: 171).Observations regarding the cultural significance of the crater were noted:All [of the interior features of the crater] bore the appearance of volcanic action,but the natives have no tradition of an eruption. It was said, however, that in formertimes the dread goddess Pele had habitation here, but was driven out by the sea, andthen took up her abode in Hawaii, where she has ever since remained. Can thislegend refer to a time when the volcanoes of Maui were in activity? Of the origin ofthe name Mauna Haleakalā , or the House of the Sun, I could not obtain anyinformation. Some of the residents thought it might be derived from the sun risingover it to the people of West Maui, which it does at some seasons of the year(Wilkes 1852:171).Botanist William D. Brackenridge, described a native species of flowering geranium knownto Hawaiians as “nohoanu”:Our gentlemen descended into the crater. The break to the north appears to haveoccasioned by the violence of volcanic action within. There does not appear anytrue lava stream on the north, but there is a cleft or valley which has a steepdescent: here the soil was found to be of a spongy nature, and many interestingplants were found, among the most remarkable of which was the arborescentgeranium [Geranium cuneatum] (Wilkes 1852:171).Mapping the interior of the crater was undertaken by Joseph Drayton, an artist with theexpedition. Although the resulting map was less than accurate (for example, the orientation ofthe Kaupō Gap was drawn too far to the east), it gave the world the first complete image of theimmensity and layout of its features. Only three days were devoted to the study of the crater, butthe drawing added greatly to the accumulating body of knowledge regarding Hawaiian volcanoes(Fitzpatrick 1986).Mr. Drayton made an accurate drawing or plan of the crater, the distances onwhich are estimated, but the many cross bearings serve to make its relativeproportions correct. Perhaps the best idea that can be given of the size of thiscavity, is by the time requisite to make a descent into it, being one hour, althoughthe depth is only two thousand feet. The distance from the middle to either openingwas upwards of five miles; that to the eastward was filled with a line of hills ofscoria, some of them five or six hundred feet high; under them was lying a lavastream, that, to appearance, was nearly horizontal, so gradual was its fall (Wilkes1852:171).3.3.3 Government Survey of Haleakalā by William DeWitt Alexander (1869)W.D. Alexander’s father, William Patterson Alexander, an accomplished surveyor, used hisson during his school vacations as an assistant surveyor. In 1869, W. D. Alexander combinedthis experience with his studies at Yale, and produced a “remarkable” map of the crater featuresof Haleakalā during a summer vacation:APPENDIX F (2): Supplemental Cultural Impact Assessment For the Proposed Advanced 28Technology Solar Telescope (<strong>ATST</strong>) at Haleakalā High Altitude ObservatoriesTMK (2) 2-2-07:008
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