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Cultural Surveys Hawai‘i Job Code: HALEA 2Traditional and Historic BackgroundI have just been spending a summer vacation on Maui, and in the course of it madea careful survey of the great crater of Haleakalā . During the vacation I went threetimes to the summit. The first time I rode up from Makawao before sunrise, andspent about seven hours in collecting mineral specimens and plants, and forming aplan for the survey of the crater….On the morning of August 4 th , I ascended themountain again from Makawao, with five natives, and furnished with a superiortheodolite [surveyor’s transit], a dozen large bamboos for signal poles, a good tent,and provisions for a week. We spent seven days on the mountain and enjoyedalmost uninterrupted fine weather (Moffat and Fitzpatrick 2004:16).Alexander’s map of Haleakalā was the first to document how dramatically magnetic northvaried within a fairly short distance, which accounted for the poor quality of maps producedduring the time of the Great Mahele. Observations made by W. D. Alexander were produced byrigorous surveying practices, which led to his appointment as surveyor general for the Kingdomof Hawaii in 1870 (Moffat and Fitzpatrick 2004:17).3.3.4 An Ascent of Haleakalā by C.F. Gordon Cumming (1881)A sightseeing trip through the ranchlands of Maui, including an ascent of the mountain ofHaleakalā, was described in great detail by C.F. Gordon Cumming (1881). The journeydescribed by Cumming required five days from leaving the island of Hawai‘i to making thesummit. Of scientific interest was Cumming’s notion that the crater had been formed by a greatexplosive cataclysm, rather than by large flows of lava running at great velocity out through eachof the two gaps leading to the sea, as proposed by Wilkes (1852), or by a cataclysmic collapse ofthe mountain-building cauldera, as would be put forward two years later by the investigation ofthe U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey (Dutton 1883). All three of these theories would provewrong, when the work of Stearns (1942) showed that the crater had been carved by hundreds ofthousands of years of erosion.The following excerpts describe the ascent of C.F. Gordon Cumming, as well as his initialimpressions of the mountain:Next in interest to the active volcanoes of Hawaii is the vast crater known asHaleakalā , “the house of the sun.” It occupies the whole summit of East Maui,which is one vast mountain-dome ten thousand feet in height, and is connected withWest Maui by a low isthmus, which, as seen from the sea, presents an aspect ofunmitigated and hideous barreness, while the mountain itself, presenting a sky-linealmost as unbroken as that of Mauna Loa gives small indication of the marvelswhich lie concealed within it (Cumming 1881:272).I heard much that was intensely interesting concerning the early years of theseislands; but one subject which, on Hawaii, is forever cropping up –namely, thewayward actions of the volcano – is here utterly lacking, for on Maui there is notthe faintest suggestion of any living fire – no active crater, no solfataras, no mineralor warm springs, no steam jets. Indeed, the commonly accepted theory is that morethan two thousand years have elapsed since the mighty outburst which shattered thehuge mountain of Haleakalā, blowing off its entire summit as the steam might blowoff the lid of a kettle. And such a lid! For the mighty cauldron in which such forcesAPPENDIX F (2): Supplemental Cultural Impact Assessment For the Proposed Advanced 29Technology Solar Telescope (<strong>ATST</strong>) at Haleakalā High Altitude ObservatoriesTMK (2) 2-2-07:008
Cultural Surveys Hawai‘i Job Code: HALEA 2Traditional and Historic Backgroundworked is, by the lowest estimate, twenty miles in circumference, and upward oftwo thousand feet deep. It is a vast pit ten thousand feet above sea level. Lookingup from the coast to the summit of that huge dome, we failed to discern theslightest dent which should betray the site of this vast crater (Cumming 1881:273).At Haiku we found a native with horses to hire, and a store where we were able tolay in provisions, with which we filled saddle-bags lent us for the purpose. Twonatives accompanied us as guides and helpers (Cumming 1881:274). The wisertravelers are those who, ascending from Makawao, make their arrangements for anight of camping out, which means sleeping in a large lava bubble that forms acave, less than a mile from the summit. Those who prefer starting from Olinda,endeavor to be in the saddle by about 2 A.M., so as to reach the summit beforesunrise, but we were far too weary to dream of such a thing. About 6 A.M., itsuddenly cleared, and we hastened to prepare for the ascent. Fortunately, it is sogradual that there is not the slightest difficulty in riding the whole way. We passeda belt of pretty timber, and then rode over immense fields of wild strawberries,which unluckily were not in season. Ohelos and Cape gooseberries [poha] alsoabound.Three hours steady ascent brought us to the lava bubble, where we saw evidenttraces of previous camping parties, and where our guide left us, while we filled ourwater-bottle at a spring a little further along the mountain-side. One mile morebrought us to the summit. We had a momentary glimpse of a group of the cones, orrather secondary craters, rising from the bed of the great crater which lay extendedat a depth of nearly half a mile below us – one, at least, of these cones attaining aheight of seven hundred and fifty feet. There are sixteen of these minor craters,which elsewhere would pass as average hills, but which here are mere hillocks.Most of them are of very red lava, which has quite a fiery appearance in contrastwith the blue-grey lava which forms the bed of the crater, and which is here andthere tinged with vegetation. Indeed, we could discern tiny dots which we wereassured were quite large trees, and at the further side there is fair camping-groundin the bed of the crater, with two springs of good fresh water [Paliku], whereProfessor W.D. Alexander told me he had spent considerable time, while preparinghis admirable map of the crater. At certain spots is found a beautiful plant, knownas the silver sword, which has the appearance of being made of finely wroughtsilver, and bears a blossom like a purple sunflower (Cumming 1881:274-275).3.3.5 U.S. Geological Survey of Haleakalā by Clarence E. Dutton (1883)The mountainous areas of each of the main Hawaiian Islands were surveyed by the U.S.Geological Survey early in 1881, with emphasis on the active volcanic region of the island ofHawai‘i (Dutton 1883). Their survey of Haleakalā was accomplished by ascending the mountain,descending into the crater, and exiting by way of the Kaupō Gap.The survey of the general characteristics of Haleakalā included comparisons with mountainbuildingand mountain-reducing processes observed on the island of Hawai‘i. The GovernmentSurvey had assumed that the vast size of Haleakalā Crater was the result of a wholesale collapseAPPENDIX F (2): Supplemental Cultural Impact Assessment For the Proposed Advanced 30Technology Solar Telescope (<strong>ATST</strong>) at Haleakalā High Altitude ObservatoriesTMK (2) 2-2-07:008
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