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Machinery Repairman

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Figure 6-41.—Aligning lathe centers.<br />

figure 6-41. To produce very accurate work,<br />

especially if it is long, use the following procedure to<br />

determine and correct errors in alignment not<br />

otherwise detected.<br />

Mount the work to be turned, or a piece of stock<br />

of similar length, on the centers. With a turning tool<br />

in the toolpost, take a small cut to a depth of a few<br />

thousandths of an inch at the headstock end of the<br />

work. Then, remove the work from the centers to<br />

allow the carriage to be run back to the tailstock<br />

without withdrawing the tool. Do not touch the tool<br />

setting. Replace the work in the centers, and with the<br />

tool set at the previous depth take another cut coming<br />

in from the tailstock end. Compare the diameters of<br />

these cuts with a micrometer. If the diameters are<br />

exactly the same, the centers are in perfect alignment.<br />

If they are different, adjust the tailstock in the<br />

direction required by using the setover adjusting<br />

screws. Repeat the test and adjustment until a cut at<br />

each end produces equal diameters.<br />

Another method you can use to check for positive<br />

alignment of lathe centers is to take a light cut over<br />

the work held between the centers. Then, measure the<br />

work at each end with a micrometer. If the readings<br />

differ, adjust the tailstock to remove the difference.<br />

Repeat the procedure until the centers are aligned.<br />

Truing Centers<br />

To machine or true a lathe center, remove the<br />

faceplate from the spindle. Then, insert the live<br />

center into the spindle and set the compound rest at an<br />

angle of 30° with the axis of the spindle, as shown in<br />

figure 6-42. If you are using a three- or four-jaw<br />

chuck, secure the material that you are using to<br />

manufacture your center from in the chuck and<br />

proceed from this point. Place a round-nose tool in<br />

the toolpost and set the cutting edge of the tool at the<br />

6-24<br />

exact center point of the lathe center. Machine a light<br />

cut on the center point and test the point with a center<br />

gauge. All lathe centers, regardless of their size, are<br />

finished to an included angle of 60°.<br />

If you must regrind a dead center for the tailstock,<br />

it is best to do it using a cylindrical grinder. The<br />

cylindrical grinder will be covered in chapter 10.<br />

SETTING THE TOOLHOLDER AND<br />

CUTTING TOOL<br />

The first requirement for setting the tool is to have<br />

it rigidly mounted on the toolpost holder. Be sure the<br />

tool sits squarely in the toolpost and that the setscrew<br />

is tight. Reduce overhang as much as possible to<br />

prevent the tool from springing during cutting. If the<br />

tool has too much spring, the point of the tool will<br />

catch in the work, causing chatter and damaging both<br />

the tool and the work. The relative distances of A and<br />

B in figure 6-43 show the correct overhang for the<br />

tool bit and the holder. When a quick-change<br />

toolholder is used, tool overhang should not exceed<br />

twice the width of the cutting tool, or of the shank,<br />

when you use a carbide insert cutting tool.<br />

The point of the tool must be correctly positioned<br />

on the work. When you are using a high-speed<br />

cutting tool to straight turn steel, cast iron, and other<br />

relatively hard metals, set the point about 5° above<br />

center. A rule measurement of approximately 3/64<br />

Figure 6-42.—Machining a lathe center.

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