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closely as possible to the cutter. Make sure<br />
that the work and the vise will clear all parts<br />
of the machine.<br />
Install the arbor nut and tighten it finger tight<br />
only.<br />
Position the overarm and mount the arbor<br />
support.<br />
After supporting the arbor, tighten the arbor<br />
nut with a wrench.<br />
Set the spindle directional control lever to<br />
give the required direction of cutter rotation.<br />
Determine the required speed and feed, and<br />
set the spindle speed and feed controls.<br />
Set the feed trip dogs for the desired length of<br />
cut and center the work under the cutter.<br />
Lock the saddle.<br />
Engage the spindle clutch and pick up the cut.<br />
Pick up the surface of the work by holding a<br />
long strip of paper between the rotating cutter<br />
and the work; very slowly move the work<br />
toward the cutter until the paper strip is<br />
pulled between the cutter and the work.<br />
Keep your fingers away from the cutter. A<br />
rotating milling cutter is very dangerous.<br />
Move the work longitudinally away from the<br />
cutter and set the vertical feed graduated<br />
collar at ZERO.<br />
Compute the depth of the roughing cut and<br />
raise the knee this distance.<br />
Lock the knee, and direct the coolant flow on<br />
the work and on the outgoing side of the<br />
cutter.<br />
Position the cutter to within 1/16 inch of the<br />
work, using hand table feed.<br />
Engage the power feed.<br />
After completing the cut, stop the spindle.<br />
Return the work to its starting point on the<br />
other side of the cutter.<br />
Raise the table the distance required for the<br />
finish cut.<br />
Set the finishing speed and feed, and take the<br />
finish cut.<br />
7-31<br />
26. When you have completed the operation,<br />
stop the spindle and return the work to the<br />
opposite side of the cutter.<br />
27. Deburr the work and remove it from the vise.<br />
To machine the second side, place the work in the<br />
vise as shown in figure 7-55, view B. Rough and<br />
finish machine side 2, using the same procedures that<br />
you used for side 1. When you have completed side 2,<br />
deburr the surface and remove the work from the vise.<br />
Place the work in the vise, as shown in figure<br />
7-55, view C, with side 3 up. Then, rough machine<br />
side 3. Finish machine side 3 for a short distance,<br />
disengage the spindle and feed, and return the work to<br />
the starting point, clear of the cutter. Now you can<br />
safely measure the distance between sides 2 and 3. If<br />
this distance is correct, you can continue the cut with<br />
the same setting. If it is not, adjust the depth of cut as<br />
necessary. If the trial finishing cut is not deep<br />
enough, raise the work slightly and take another trial<br />
cut. If the trial cut is too deep, you will have to<br />
remove the backlash from the vertical feed before<br />
taking the new depth of cut. Use the following<br />
procedure to remove the backlash:<br />
1.<br />
2.<br />
3.<br />
4.<br />
5.<br />
Lower the knee well past the original depth<br />
of the roughing cut.<br />
Raise the knee the correct distance for the<br />
finishing cut.<br />
Engage the feed and complete your cut.<br />
Stop the spindle.<br />
Return the work to the starting point on the<br />
other side of the cutter.<br />
6. Deburr the work.<br />
7. Remove the work from the vise.<br />
Place side 4 in the vise, as shown in figure 7-55,<br />
view D, and machine the side, using the same<br />
procedure as for side 3. When you have completed<br />
side 4, remove the work from the vise and check it for<br />
accuracy.<br />
This completes the machining of the four sides of<br />
the block. If the block is not too long, you can rough<br />
and finish mill the ends to size in the same manner in<br />
which you milled the sides. Do this by placing the<br />
block on end in the vise. You also may use face<br />
milling to machine the ends.