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Machinery Repairman

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Figure 6-45.—Boring center hole.<br />

If you must center a piece very accurately, bore<br />

the tapered center hole after you center drill to correct<br />

any run-out of the drill. You can do this by grinding a<br />

tool bit to fit a center gauge at a 60° angle. Then, with<br />

the toolholder held in the toolpost, set the compound<br />

rest at 30° with the line of center as shown in figure<br />

6-45. Set the tool exactly on the center for height and<br />

adjust the tool to the proper angle with the center<br />

gauge as shown at A. Feed the tool as shown at B to<br />

correct any runout of the center. The tool bit should<br />

be relieved under the cutting edge as shown at C to<br />

prevent the tool from dragging or rubbing in the hole.<br />

For center drilling a workpiece, the combined<br />

drill and countersink is the most practical tool.<br />

Combined drills and countersinks vary in size and the<br />

drill points also vary. Sometimes a drill point on one<br />

end will be 1/8 inch in diameter and the drill point on<br />

the opposite end will be 3/16 inch in diameter. The<br />

angle of the center drill is always 60° so that the<br />

countersunk hole will fit the angle of the lathe center<br />

point.<br />

In center drilling, use a drop or two of oil on the<br />

drill. Feed the drill slowly and carefully to prevent<br />

breaking the tip. Use extreme care when the work is<br />

heavy, because it is then more difficult to “feel” the<br />

proper feed of the work on the center drill.<br />

If the center drill breaks in countersinking and<br />

part of the broken drill remains in the work, you must<br />

remove the broken part. Sometimes you can jar it<br />

loose, or you may have to drive it out by using a<br />

chisel. But it may stick so hard that you cannot easily<br />

remove it. If so, anneal the broken part of the drill<br />

and drill it out.<br />

The importance of having proper center holes in<br />

the work and a correct angle on the point of the lathe<br />

centers cannot be overemphasized. To do an accurate<br />

job between centers on the lathe, you must<br />

6-26<br />

Figure 6-46.—Examples of center holes.<br />

countersink holes of the proper size and depth and be<br />

sure the points of the lathe centers are true and<br />

accurate.<br />

Figure 6-46 shows correct and incorrect<br />

countersinking for work to be machined on centers.<br />

In example A, the correctly countersunk hole is deep<br />

enough so that the point of the lathe centers does not<br />

come in contact with the bottom of the hole.<br />

In example B of figure 6-46, the countersunk hole<br />

is too deep, causing only the outer edge of the work to<br />

rest on the lathe center. Work cannot be machined on<br />

centers countersunk in this manner.<br />

Example C shows a piece of work that has been<br />

countersunk with a tool having too large an angle.<br />

This work rests on the point of the lathe center only.<br />

It is evident that this work will soon destroy the end of<br />

the lathe center, thus making it impossible to do an<br />

accurate job.<br />

MOUNTING THE WORK.—Figure 6-47<br />

shows correct and incorrect methods of mounting<br />

work between centers. In the correct example, the<br />

driving dog is attached to the work and rigidly held by<br />

the setscrew. The tail of the dog rests in the slot of the<br />

drive plate and extends beyond the base of the slot so<br />

that the work rests firmly on both the headstock center<br />

and tailstock center.<br />

In the incorrect example, the tail of the dog rests<br />

on the bottom of the slot on the faceplate at A, thereby<br />

pulling the work away from the center points, as<br />

shown at B and C, causing the work to revolve<br />

eccentrically.

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