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Machinery Repairman

Machinery Repairman

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Figure 6-52.—Centering work with a dial indicator.<br />

Figure 6-52 illustrates the use of a dial test indicator<br />

in centering work that has a hole bored in its center. As<br />

the work is revolved, the high spot is indicated on the<br />

dial of the instrument to a thousandth of an inch. The jaws<br />

of the chuck are adjusted on the work until the indicator<br />

hand registers no deviation as the work is revolved.<br />

When the work consists of a number of duplicate<br />

parts that are to be tightened in the chuck, release two<br />

adjacent jaws and remove the work. Place another<br />

piece in the chuck and retighten the two jaws just<br />

released.<br />

Each jaw of a lathe chuck, whether an independent<br />

or a universal chuck, has a number stamped on it to<br />

correspond to a similar number on the chuck. When<br />

you remove a chuck jaw for any reason, always put it<br />

back into the proper slot.<br />

When the work to be chucked is frail or light,<br />

tighten the jaw carefully so the work will not bend,<br />

break, or spring.<br />

To mount rings or cylindrical disks on a chuck,<br />

expand the chuck jaws against the inside of the<br />

workpiece. (See fig. 6-53.)<br />

Regardless of how you mount the workpiece,<br />

NEVER leave the chuck wrench in the chuck while<br />

the chuck is on the lathe spindle. If the lathe should<br />

be started, the wrench could fly off the chuck and<br />

injure you or a bystander.<br />

THREE-JAW UNIVERSAL CHUCK.—A<br />

three-jaw universal, or scroll, chuck allows all jaws to<br />

move together or apart in unison. A universal chuck<br />

will center almost exactly at the first clamping, but<br />

after a period of use it may develop inaccuracies of<br />

from 0.002 to 0.010 inch in centering the work,<br />

requiring the runout of the work to be corrected.<br />

6-30<br />

Sometimes you can make the correction by inserting a<br />

piece of paper or thin shim stock between the jaw and<br />

the work on the HIGH SIDE.<br />

When you chuck thin sections, be careful not to<br />

clamp the work too tightly, since the diameter of the<br />

piece will be machined while the piece is distorted.<br />

Then, when you release the pressure of the jaws after<br />

finishing the cut, there will be as many high spots as<br />

there are jaws, and the turned surface will not be true.<br />

DRAW-IN-COLLET CHUCK.—A draw-in<br />

collet chuck is used for very fine accurate work of<br />

small diameter. Long work can be passed through the<br />

hollow drawbar, and short work can be placed directly<br />

into the collet from the front. TIghten the collet on the<br />

work by rotating the drawbar handwheel to the right.<br />

This draws the collet into the tapered closing sleeve.<br />

Turn the handle to the left to release the collet.<br />

You will get the most accurate results when the<br />

diameter of the work is the same as the dimension<br />

stamped on the collet. The actual diameter of the work<br />

may vary from the collet dimension by 0.001 inch.<br />

However, if the work diameter varies more than this, the<br />

accuracy of the finished work will be affected. Most<br />

draw-in collet chuck sets are sized in 1/64-inch<br />

increments to allow you to select a collet within the<br />

required tolerances.<br />

RUBBER FLEX COLLET CHUCK.—A<br />

rubber flex collet chuck is basically the same as the<br />

draw-in collet, except that the size of the stock held is<br />

not as critical. The rubber collets are graduated in<br />

28.121<br />

Figure 6-53.—Work held from inside by a four-jaw<br />

independent chuck.

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