Shape_USA_July_August_2017

Beauty Playbook
STEP 1/
Start with
your skin care
Before anything, you’re
going to need to determine
your skin’s current state.
If you’re oily, apply an
oil-control primer or toner
as your first layer. Try
OleHenriksen Balancing
Force Oil Control Toner ($26,
sephora.com), which you pour
onto a cotton pad and then
dab on clean, dry skin. “For your
dewy look, you’ll be adding
light-reflecting products, so
this will keep you from becoming
way too shiny,” says Katie
Jane Hughes, a makeup artist
in New York City.
On the flip side, if you’re dry
and you put on something
shimmery, it can clump up and
make your skin’s texture look
uneven. So premakeup, smooth
on a hyaluronic acid serum,
like Vichy Mineral 89 Fortifying
andHydrating Daily Skin
Booster ($30, vichyusa.com),
and/or a lightweight gel cream,
like Boscia Tsubaki Swirl ($38,
sephora.com), which offers
hydration yet soaks into your
skin quickly.
STEP 2/
Layer on your
first glowing
formula
“To get the gleamy look, I like
to use two luminizing products,”
Hughes says. At this
stage, apply luminizer number
one. Pick a shimmering primer,
which goes all over your skin
before your foundation (or BB
Cream or tinted moisturizer)—
even if you’re already wearing
an oil-absorbing primer from
step one. “You can apply it
directly to your skin or mix it
into your moisturizer,” Hughes
says. The lightweight liquid
contains optical brighteners
that diffuse light to give your
entire face a subtle radiance.
We like Lune + Aster RealGlow
Primer ($30, bluemercury.com)
and the Becca First Light
Priming Filter shown on the
next page; its lavender hue
blends into your skin tone to
counteract dullness.
STEP 3/
Move on to
the rest of
your makeup
Apply foundation, then tap
blush onto the apples of your
cheeks and blend it diagonally
toward your temples. “A shimmery
warm tone, like peach,
will amplify the gleaminess
of your skin,” says Hrush
Achemyan, a makeup artist in
Los Angeles. Adds Hughes:
“It’s also especially important
to pick the right formula in
summer. I find that creams and
liquids sink into your skin easily
and look more real in bright
sunlight.” But if you’re very oily,
a powder will stay on longer.
STEP 4/
Reach for another
luminizer
Golden or bronze-tinted
luminizers (also called
highlighters) are
available in cream
and powder form
and have a touch of
shimmer to them. “But
unlike versions of the past,
these formulas don’t provide
a glittery cast; instead, it’s
glossy,” Achemyan says. This
innovation also makes skin look
nearly flawless. “Large particles
of mica or pearl can magnify
pores and wrinkles,” Hughes
says. In general, you’ll find the
smallest particles in creams
and liquids and almost none at
all in new clear balms, which rely
on rich hydrators (like murumuru
butter in Ciaté London
Dewy Stix, $26, sephora.com)
to create a dewy finish. “I stick
to these formulas for daytime
because they’re more subtle,”
Achemyan says, adding,
“Powders are for nighttime and
Instagram.”
STEP 5/
Make it look real
“Blend that second highlighter
on all the high points of your
face,” Achemyan says. This
makes your bone structure
stand out. Apply it to your
cheekbones and brow bones,
along the hairline, down the
nose and Cupid’s bow, and
to the tip of your chin. “If you
swipe along only, say, your
cheekbones, then it looks
too purposefully placed and
unnatural,” Hughes says. Tap
and press a cream formula onto
skin with your fingers so you
don’t risk disrupting the rest
of your makeup. For the same
reason, apply powder with a fan
brush; its bristles lightly dust
on makeup (Achemyan loves
Morphe Deluxe Soft Fan brush,
$7, morphe.com).
For more
brilliant
formulas,
turn the
page
38 JULY/AUGUST 2017 SHAPE.COM