The Address Sept-Oct 2013

“A hot chocolate sauce is poured over the dome,
melting it and exposing the hazelnut mousse within.
Dark, rich and decadent, it was comforting.”
— The Chocolate Sphere
us chefs,” he jokes. “We look at the sky, we see
a cloud, we get inspiration.”
With over 20 dishes on the menu, there is
plenty to choose from without being overwhelming.
Expect unusual dishes like the
grilled cucumber with raw cuttle fish, snails
and squid ink dressing, or more conventional
ones like pan-fried duck liver with cherry,
peach and brioche. “We just love what we are
doing,” he says as the second dish rolls out.
The rustic Venison Carpaccio was simplicity
at its best, presented on a large wooden
tray with bunches of fresh lavender.
Thin, translucent slices of deer meat marinated
in pure sugar cane, served with shavings
of a unique saffron-infused cheese called
‘bagoss’ and droplets of eight-year-old Vincotto.
“The cheese is protected,” he explains,
“and is made in Bagolino, Brescia at the top of
Italy, produced using only milk from brown
cows.” I also learnt that Vincotto is luxurious
vinegar made from cooked grape must.
I dipped my finger in the thick, treacle-like
black liquid and had a taste. The flavour was
intense, aged to the point that bordered on
bittersweet, while remaining immensely
pleasurable to the tastebuds.
“We serve herring in a very unique way,”
continues Chef Federico. “It’s a German style,
with Smoked Cream Bon Bon, Apple Onion
and toasted bread.” Out came the Roasted
Veal Tenderloin, with mashed potato, a
spattering of summer truffle, tomato confit
stuffed with smoked duck, and a buttery Tarragon
Béarnaise. “Now is summer, so we have
the summer truffle with the mash potato and
Béarnaise.” The tenderloin was so tender; it
put up no resistance to my knife and melted
in my mouth, a clear example of fantastic
cooking techniques and excellent meat.
We carried on chatting about fine ingredients
and as talk of seafood ensued, Chef Federico
proudly tells me that Marini’s is the only
restaurant in KL to carry four types of caviar
served every day.
The Pan Roasted Goby was served with an
unusual topping of seared duck liver, a beautiful
saffron-miso sauce on one side, and an
earthy chanterelle sauce on the other. Who
would have thought of combining the delicate,
flaky fish with the velvety foie gras?
For dessert, a giant plate of spun sugar is
placed on your table so you have something
sweet to nibble on. I loved the childlike quality
this brought to the meal, as Chef Federico
shows us we are never too old to enjoy the
simple things in life like candy floss.
You will, in no way, fall asleep to the dessert
aptly named ‘Good Night’, a combination
of chamomile, green tea and honey comb elements.
The sticky marshmallow contrasted
with the crunchy, chewy honeycomb and
bittersweet edible flower and green tea aftertaste
does indeed soothe your palate and lend
calmness to the end of the meal.
The Chocolate Sphere was heavily ornamented,
colourful and exciting to savour. A
hot chocolate sauce is poured over the dome,
melting it and exposing the hazelnut mousse
within. Dark, rich and decadent, it was comforting.
Handmade chocolates are presented
in an elegant black box and you can choose
your own petit fours.
It is clear that Chef Federico is bordering
on being a diabolical genius in the kitchen.
His food is original and inspired. And just like
the fine, slow-aged ingredients used to craft
the masterpieces you are served, each bite
should be savoured in a leisurely pace, taking
in the entirety of the tastes, the flavours, the
atmosphere and the view.
RECIPE
PAN ROASTED GOBY FISH,
SPINACH, PAN FRIED LIVER
AND CREAMY SAUCE
Ingredients
150 g goby
30 g fegato
50 g spinach, chopped
10 g olive oil
Mushroom sauces
Saffron sauces
Mushroom sauces
10 g chantarrelle, sliced
10 g king mushroom, sliced
3 g salt
5 g garlic, chopped
100 ml crème
Saffron sauces
10 g miso
10 g saffron water
10 g crème
A pinch of salt and pepper
The method
1 — Pan fry the goby fish with skin
until crispy.
2 — Pan fry the fegato.
3 — Sautée spinach with olive oil
and season to taste.
4 — Set aside.
5 — Place goby, fegato and spinach
on a plate.
3 — Pour in the mushroom sauces
and saffron sauces.
Mushroom sauces
1 — Sweat onions and garlic, add
mushrooms and crème.
2 — Reduce the heat.
3 — Add seasoning to taste.
Saffron sauces
1 — Bring to boil and reduce.
SEPT/OCT 2013 | TA 109