The Outliers Issue 1

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The crown jewels From fuchsia to chartreuse, wedge cuts to side points, the Marc Jacobs A/W18 show was a masterclass in statement hair. Josh Wood and Guido, the backstage leads creating the hair looks with Redken, lift the lid on how the story came together This page: photography by James Cochrane 20 The Outliers
MARC JACOBS A/W18 Josh Wood (left) and Guido backstage at Marc Jacobs In a show that saw 80 per cent of the models donning hats, you know it must have been pretty spectacular hair on the remainder to have ended up on the cover of The New York Times. That was down to the talent of session stars Josh Wood and Guido. An illustration of the power of collaboration, the duo worked with the designer to deliver a darker take on ’80s nostalgia, referencing classic Sassoon techniques with the cuts, and neon from an ’80s nightclub for the colour. It was a fusion that excited the world of fashion, something that isn’t so easy to do in 2018. Marc had a clear view about what he wanted to create, looking at a very specific time in the ’80s using extreme silhouettes. “It felt night time, colourful but in a dark way,” says Guido, global creative director for Redken. “I went back to what had an impact on me at the beginning of my career. I started at Sassoon, those haircuts were my blueprint for hairdressing.” After each model was cut, colour took over. The designer set Josh the task of colour-matching every single piece of fabric the models would be wearing. The Redken global color creative director found it all reassuring. “With designers, colour is so subjective. We had 20 samples of fabric that we were trying to match to the hair. It’s much easier than Marc saying ‘I want a fuschia pink’, because his fuschia is very different to Guido’s fuschia… there were goals we were trying to achieve,” he explains. “The more clear the brief, the easier it is to deliver.” It was an intensive project. Three days of conversations before anyone arrived at the test, and then three 20-hour days with Josh’s team working in shifts. And some shades were more of a challenge, namely chartreuse. “We had to bleach the hair to a very specific shade of mustard to avoid a banana yellow. It still needed a lot of underlying pigment to get that green-gold. That was done five times,” Josh admits. In fact, three formulas were fused together. Formula one (Redken City Beats in High Line Green) was blurred into formula two (Redken City Beats in Yellow Cab plus a drop of Redken City Beats in Times Square Teal) and blurred into formula three (Redken City Beats in High Line Green + Redken City Beats in Yellow Cab plus a drop of Redken City Beats in Brooklyn Blue). “We were up and down those stairs in the Marc Jacobs studio. Precision colour, where placement is everything, is not easy to do over a kitchen sink.” The end result was one that thrilled both designer and the wider fashion world alike. The models in question have since been used in the Marc Jacobs seasonal campaign and used by Guido in a magazine shoot. And it was a first for Josh Wood, seeing himself name-checked in the show notes. “It was a career highlight for me,” says Josh. “Marc said that what I’d done exceeded expectations, he’d never seen colour like that. It’s a pretty proud moment when you’re allowed to do something for a genius and you’re introducing them to something rather than just meeting their expectations.” The Outliers 21
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Page 4 and 5: We do Corrado Tevere different Meet
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Page 8 and 9: Josh Wood Josh Wood Colour, Holland
Page 10 and 11: Amanda and Toby Dicker The Chapel,
Page 12 and 13: Perfect partners Redken Shades EQ i
Page 14 and 15: Brush strokes of genius Hair colour
Page 16 and 17: Michelle Marshall, Michelle Marshal
Page 18 and 19: Rogue Blonde South Kensington’s L
Page 23 and 24: Teddy Quinlivan (right), Leomie And
Page 25 and 26: BRIGHT IDEA Beyond Pink Blonde “S
Page 27 and 28: LIKES Social life It’s not just a
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Page 31 and 32: CULT OF PERSONALITY Craig Chapman H
Page 33 and 34: YOUNG AND RESTLESS Never stand stil
Page 35 and 36: YOUNG AND RESTLESS WIGS AND WARPAIN
Page 37 and 38: EDUCATION Kelly Scott Programme.
Page 39 and 40: HERE COME THE GELS... THE REDKEN CO
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Page 43 and 44: LOCAL HEROES Strands Hairdressing,
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Page 47 and 48: RETAIL “Digital windows are so at
Page 49 and 50: RETAIL Innovation BRINGING IN NEW P
Page 51 and 52: Emma Delury for Redken 5th Avenue T

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