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48<br />
my trip to...<br />
Islands of<br />
Bounty<br />
It’s a long way to the South Pacific so you could argue it’s worth<br />
seeing more than one island. Jane Archer shows how you can visit<br />
several on a cruise.<br />
We’ve stopped beside a pile of<br />
stones that to an untrained<br />
eye (mine) looks like, well, a<br />
pile of stones. To anthropologist Mark<br />
Eddowes, a walking encyclopaedia on<br />
everything Polynesian who happens<br />
to be guiding my tour, they offer an<br />
insight into the lives of the people who<br />
lived here hundreds of years ago.<br />
‘Here’ is the South Pacific island of<br />
Moorea, the last stop on a one-week<br />
cruise around the Society Islands with Paul<br />
Gauguin Cruises. We started in Papeete,<br />
in Tahiti, and have already visited Raiatea,<br />
Tah’a and Bora Bora. There’s an overnight<br />
in Moorea to come and then, all too soon,<br />
we’ll head back to Papeete.<br />
The islands are as close to paradise as<br />
anywhere I’ve ever been (certainly worth<br />
the near 24-hour journey getting here) – all<br />
small, ringed by beautiful beaches and<br />
with lush green rainforest interiors. They<br />
are each enclosed by strings of coral reefs,<br />
which keeps the waters calm and attracts<br />
an array of marine life; on the reefs<br />
themselves are beautiful white motus, the<br />
local name for coral islands, which glint in<br />
the bright sunshine.<br />
Paul Gauguin’s ship, also called Paul<br />
Gauguin, has proved the perfect base<br />
from which to explore this region.<br />
Purpose-built to cruise the South Pacific,<br />
it accommodates just 332 passengers and<br />
has a shallow draft so it can get inside the<br />
reefs. There’s plenty of outside deck for<br />
lazing in the sun and a laid-back, casual<br />
atmosphere that suits the destination.<br />
After all, who wants to come to the South<br />
Pacific and have to dress up in tuxedos or<br />
DJs. The icing on the cake, is that prices<br />
include all dining, drinks and gratuities so<br />
you don’t have to think about the budget.<br />
Ship mates<br />
I was there with my daughter on what<br />
turned out to be the perfect bonding<br />
trip. While I was loving the sea, sand and<br />
temperatures in the high 80s (despite it<br />
being August, which is their winter), my<br />
daughter was coming back from scuba<br />
and snorkelling tours with the ship’s dive<br />
masters, telling tales of turtles, sea urchins,<br />
eagle rays, sharks (I was assured they were<br />
harmless!) and more. On one notable<br />
trip she encountered a Crown of Thorns<br />
starfish, a carnivorous echinoderm capable<br />
of wiping out entire reef colonies.<br />
My daughter is a scuba dive instructor<br />
but you don’t have to be qualified to dive<br />
from the ship as there are scuba trips for<br />
beginners and certified divers (these are<br />
at extra cost). Uniquely, there are three<br />
dive masters on board, plus a couple of<br />
assistants, and between them they also<br />
look after the marina, housed in the stern<br />
of the ship, which contains water toys like<br />
snorkelling equipment, kayaks, canoes and<br />
a windsurf, all of which are free to use.<br />
We also had plenty of together time.<br />
I got roped into a drift snorkelling trip,<br />
which sounded alarming (“for confident<br />
swimmers only, no touching the coral”)<br />
but was brilliant. We were guided through<br />
fields of colourful coral teeming with evenmore<br />
vibrant tropical fish, pulled along by<br />
the strong current that runs between the<br />
motus – a bit like being in a funnel - when<br />
the tide is coming in or receding.<br />
We drank cocktails from coconut shells<br />
during a Robinson Crusoe day on Motu<br />
Mahana, Paul Gauguin’s private coral<br />
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