Modernist-Cuisine-Vol.-1-Small

1 50 VOLUME 5 · PLATED-DISH RECIPES
YIELD:
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
TIME REQUIRED:
TIME TO
COMPONENT PREP COOK FINISH QUANTITY
optional, see page 3·187
*(unattended times)
FIS H 1 5 1
1
MAKING A SMOOTH PUREE
Prepare the vegetables by cutting them into evenly shaped, small
1 pieces, as indicated in the table below.
Combine the vegetables with the liquid or seasoning indicated in
2 the table. Set the weight of the produce to 100%. For example, use
12 g of butter for every 100 g of mushrooms.
Cook as indicated. Suggested methods, temperatures, and times
3 are listed in the table.
Puree by using the tool indicated. Optionally, process with a
4 rotor-stator homogenizer, ultrahigh–pressure homogenizer, or
ultrasonic homogenizer for a finer texture. For large quantities,
a colloid mill is an ideal tool.
Best Bets for Vegetable and Fruit Purees
Ingredient Prep
Method
Cook
(°C) (°F) (min) Liquid (scaling)* Tool See page
apple peeled, quartered sous vide 90 194 2½ h
commercial 5∙17
blender
asparagus thinly sliced sauté high
10 vegetable stock 25% commercial 341
heat
unsalted butter 15% blender
artichoke hearts, thinly sliced sous vide 80 176 45 vegetable stock 50% commercial
olive oil 5% blender
beet
peeled, thinly
sliced
sous vide 80 176 1 h cooked beet
juice
50% commercial
blender
unsalted butter 15%
broccoli
stems, peeled
and sliced
sauté
medium
heat
In many cases we have example recipes tied to
entries in the parametric recipe table. These
cross-references let you see a full example of how
the parameters and formulas work in practice.
The final kind of recipe we use in this book is
the plated-dish recipe. This comes closest to the
recipes found in traditional cookbooks. Our
plated-dish recipes offer instructions for creating
an entire restaurant-style dish, including main
ingredients, multiple garnishes, and details about
how to assemble everything for serving. We
describe the entire context of the dish in detail;
thus, some of these recipes are quite involved, with
many component parts. You can always opt to
simplify things a bit by using only certain parts.
Plated dishes come in a wide variety of styles.
Parametric recipes typically contain three parts: an introduction that explains some of
the underlying principles at work (not shown in this example), steps that outline the
general procedure for making the recipe, and one or more tables, typically organized by
main ingredient, that present the parameters—ingredients, quantities, preparation
steps, cooking times and temperatures, etc.—for making a number of variations.
Ingredients for each variation are grouped together between horizontal lines. In the
example below, the recipe for asparagus puree calls for blending both vegetable stock and
unsalted butter together with the sliced asparagus. More than one variation is sometimes
given for a main ingredient, as indicated by an indented line.
If no ingredient is listed for a variation, that indicates that we don’t consider any
additional ingredient necessary in this case. A value of “n/a” indicates that the value for
that column is not applicable for a given variation.
Cooking instructions typically include both temperatures and times, given in
minutes (min) or hours (h), as indicated by the unit at the top of the column. When a time
is unusually short or long, the abbreviated unit is included with the number.
Quantities in parametric recipe tables are often given as percentages of a liquid or
a main ingredient, as indicated by a note at the bottom of the table. A References
to related example recipes, plated-dish recipes, or step-by-step procedures are often
given in a “See page” column.
12 neutral oil 3% commercial
blender
florets, sliced boil high heat 4 neutral oil 3% Pacojet
A*(set weight of prepared vegetable to 100%)
426
We have full-on Modernist dishes that would not
be out of place at leading Modernist restaurants.
But we also have dishes that are far more informal,
like barbecue from the American South, a pork
belly picnic, and even the perfect omelet. For us,
a plated recipe doesn’t have to be fancy, as long as
it’s made with the quality and care of more elaborate
preparations. Our hamburger is the best one
we know how to make, and we believe that you
should put every bit as much effort into making
a great hamburger as you would if you were
making dishes with loftier ambitions.
Some Modernist dishes are lavishly complex
à la Heston Blumenthal, while others are boldly
minimalist in the style of Ferran Adrià. Other
Modernist chefs, including Grant Achatz, David
MONKFISH WITH MEDITERRANEAN FLAVORS
ORDER OF PREPARATION:
Salted Halibut
ASSEMBLY:
Cook 48119
47117
Cook 65149
Deep-fry 195380
Pâte à Choux
Halibut Brandade
Zucchini Blossom Beignets
Sous Vide Mussels
Fish Spice Mix
Spice Mix Emulsion
Sous Vide Monkfish Pavé
Season
Warm
Place
Garnish
Pour
Plated-dish recipes are the most involved recipes in the book
because they bring together multiple components, including a main
dish, side dishes, sauces, and garnishes. A brief introduction
provides historical or culinary context for the dish. It is followed by
a “dashboard” view that gives an overview of the recipe
components, the time you’ll need to budget to make each part, any
special equipment that is required (or that is optional but handy),
and the assembly steps involved in bringing everything to
completion at the same time.
Yield for the recipe as a whole is given as a number of portions.
Several times are listed in the TIME REQUIRED: section. The
“overall” time indicates clock time from the start of preparation to
serving time. Because many recipes require long periods of
cooking, curing, fermenting, etc. that do not require a cook’s
attention, we also indicate the amount of hands-on kitchen time
needed for preparation. Finally, we give the reheating and finishing
time to let you know how far in advance of serving you should
begin final assembly.
The component dishes in the recipe are then listed in a
suggested order of preparation, with those parts that are
easily (or necessarily) made in advance given first. Although the
recipes for most components follow the dashboard page, some
may be found instead in other parts of the book, in which case
a page reference is given. Components that are optional are
clearly noted as such.
For each component, we list the quantity needed and three
useful times: the hands-on prep time, the time needed for any
finishing steps during assembly, and the cooking time. Cooking
steps that do not require active attention are set in italics; in
cases where a dish involves both attended and unattended
cooking steps, times are given separately for each.
Instructions for finishing and final assembly of the plated dish
appear after the table of components. The most difficult part of
making a complex meal is completing all the last-minute cooking,
dressing, and garnishing in the few minutes before it is served. To
help you pull off this feat, all of these final steps are presented
together in this spot and arranged clearly in a practical order.
The remaining pages of the plated-dish recipe are devoted to
recipes for the components, A each of which is presented using
the same approach we take for example recipes (see page 94).
Where space permits, we have included photographs showing
some of the steps involved. Notes in the margin B provide tips
and ideas for substitutions.
Green almonds
22
B
MONKFISH WITH MEDITERRANEAN FLAVORS
YIELD:
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT:
TIME REQUIRED:
ORDER OF PREPARATION:
Sous Vide Monkfish Pavé
PÂTE À CHOUX
ASSEMBLY:
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk, heated to
90 °C / 194 °F
Methocel SGA 150
(Dow brand)
1 52 V O LUME 5 · PLATED-DISH REC IPE S
Yields 725 g
250 g 100% Disperse Methocel over hot milk, shearing constantly
with immersion blender for 3 min.
3.2 g 1.3% *(unattended Vacuum times) seal.
(0.5%)*
Refrigerate for 12 h to hydrate.
Unsalted butter, melted 70 g 28% Blend with milk, and bring to a boil.
Cook 48119
Extra-virgin olive oil 40 g Season 16%
Salt 5 g 2%
47117
Warm
Sugar 5 g 2%
Cook 65149
Place
All-purpose flour, sifted 120 g 48% Add to hot milk mixture all at once.
Garnish
Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture forms ball
Deep-fry 195380
and pot is coated with shiny film of residual dough,
Pour
about 5 min.
Eggs 250 g 100% Transfer ball of dough to stand mixer.
The quantity of the whole milk will
depend on the size of the fish as
well as the shape and size of the
container.
Good quality, store-bought salt cod
can be substituted for the halibut.
HALIBUT BRANDADE
Add eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed with
FIS H
paddle attachment until incorporated.
Measure 250 g, and reserve.
1 5 1
*(% of total weight of milk, butter, olive oil, and eggs)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Whole milk as needed Soak halibut in milk for 12 h.
Salted halibut
optional, see page 3·187
Garlic, sliced and
blanched twice
160 g 100%
25 g 16%
Drain fish, and discard milk.
Yields 800 g
Repeat steps 1 and 2 three times, for total soaking time
of 48 h. Reserve 20 g of liquid from final soaking step.
Vacuum seal reserved soaking liquid, halibut, and
garlic together.
Cook sous vide at 58 °C / 135 °F to a core temperature
of 57 °C / 133 °F, about 20 min. Hold at this core
temperature for another 15 min.
Pulse in food processor until finely shredded.
Water 1 kg 625% Vacuum seal potato slices in a thin even layer.
Yukon Gold or other waxy
potatoes, thinly sliced
250 g 156%
TIME TO
COMPONENT PREP COOK FINISH QUANTITY
Salted Halibut
optional, see page 3·187
Pâte à Choux
Halibut Brandade
Zucchini Blossom Beignets
Sous Vide Mussels
Fish Spice Mix
Spice Mix Emulsion
Green almonds
A
Extra-virgin olive oil 90 g 56% Mix into potatoes.
Cook sous vide at 90 °C / 194 °F for 45 min.
Drain potatoes, and pass through ricer.
Pass through a fine sieve.
Fold sieved potatoes into halibut-garlic mixture.
Refrigerate.
22
98 VOLUME 1 · HISTORY AND FUNDAMENTALS
HISTORY 99