Modernist-Cuisine-Vol.-1-Small

3
Simplified Dairy Pasteurization Recommendations
Pasteurizing General
Dairy Products
Temperature
Time
(°C) (°F) (min) (s)
62.8 145.0 33 46
63.0 145.4 30 00
63.3 146.0 25 08
63.9 147.0 18 42
64.0 147.2 17 37
64.4 148.0 13 55
65.0 149.0 10 21
65.6 150.0 7 42
66.0 150.8 6 05
66.1 151.0 5 44
66.7 152.0 4 16
67.0 152.6 3 34
67.2 153.0 3 10
67.8 154.0 2 22
68.0 154.4 2 06
68.3 155.0 1 45
68.9 156.0 1 18
69.0 156.2 1 14
69.4 157.0 58
70.0 158.0 43
70.6 159.0 32
71.0 159.8 26
71.1 160.0 24
71.7 161.0 18
72.0 161.6 15
72.2 162.0 13
72.8 163.0 9.9
73.0 163.4 8.8
73.3 164.0 7.4
73.9 165.0 5.5
74.0 165.2 5.2
74.4 166.0 4.1
75.0 167.0 3.0
75.6 168.0 2.3
76.0 168.8 1.8
76.1 169.0 1.7
76.7 170.0 1.3
77.0 170.6 1.0
77.2 171.0 0.9
77.8 172.0 0.7
78.0 172.4 0.6
78.3 173.0 0.5
78.9 174.0 0.4
79.0 174.2 0.4
79.4 175.0 0.3
80.0 176.0 0.2
Pasteurizing Ice Cream and Sweet
or High-Fat Dairy Products
Temperature
Time
(°C) (°F) (min) (s)
68.0 154.4 34 38
68.3 155.0 30 00
68.9 156.0 23 37
69.0 156.2 22 31
69.4 157.0 18 35
70.0 158.0 14 38
70.6 159.0 11 31
71.0 159.8 9 31
71.1 160.0 9 04
71.7 161.0 7 08
72.0 161.6 6 11
72.2 162.0 5 37
72.8 163.0 4 25
73.0 163.4 4 01
73.3 164.0 3 29
73.9 165.0 2 44
74.0 165.2 2 37
74.4 166.0 2 09
75.0 167.0 1 42
75.6 168.0 1 20
76.0 168.8 1 06
76.1 169.0 1 03
76.7 170.0 50
77.0 170.6 43
77.2 171.0 39
77.8 172.0 31
78.0 172.4 28
78.3 173.0 24
78.9 174.0 19
79.0 174.2 18
79.4 175.0 15
80.0 176.0 12
80.6 177.0 9.3
81.0 177.8 7.7
81.1 178.0 7.3
81.7 179.0 5.8
82.0 179.6 5.0
82.2 180.0 4.5
82.8 181.0 3.6
83.0 181.4 3.2
83.3 182.0 2.8
83.9 183.0 2.2
84.0 183.2 2.1
84.4 184.0 1.7
85.0 185.0 1.4
85.6 186.0 1.1
Temperature
(°C)
where seals or other marine mammals are present.
These fish include salmon, halibut, and sea bass
found in most temperate parts of the world. There
are two points of view on the anisakid threat. On
the one hand, it is easy to find fish that have living
worms in themwe have found them in fish sold
by quality merchants in the Seattle area, and we
have little doubt that they exist more broadly. On
the other hand, experts estimate that fewer than
10 cases of anisakiasis occur each year on average
in the United States, a country with more than
300 million people, so it is clearly a very rare
condition. Under most circumstances, swallowing
the worms does not result in any illness.
If you decide that you care about this threat,
then you must freeze fish that might contain
anisakid nematodes to kill the worms, as detailed
in our Simplified Fish Freezing Recommendations
table below. Frozen fish does not generally require
any additional treatment. Freezing in liquid
nitrogen at −195 °C / −320 °F or using ultralowtemperature
freezers ranging from −150 °C to
−40 °C / −240 °F to −40 °F is even more effective
than freezing at the temperatures we list in that
table and probably reduces the holding time
needed. Unfortunately, no published reports have
quantified just how little time in the freezer
suffices to ensure that fish is safe to eat.
Simplified Fish Freezing Recommendations
(°F)
Time
Note
−20 −4 7 d core temperature should be
brought to specified temperatures
−35 −31 15 h
and held there
−35 to −20 −31 to −4 1 d initial freezing to core
temperature of −35 °C / −31 °F,
then holding at −20 °C / −4 °F
T H E BASICS OF
Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point Assessment
Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point (HACCP) assessment
is a method for analyzing the steps used in preparing
food and for correcting any procedures that might prove
hazardous. The HACCP method originated with the National
Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), which
required a hazard-assessment protocol when Pillsbury,
a division of food-product corporation General Mills, began
producing food for NASA astronauts. A committee of the U.S.
Institute of Medicine credited USDA’s broad implementation
of HACCP rules, combined with pathogen- reduction standards
targeting Salmonella in meat and poultry plants, with
helping to reduce the incidence of foodborne disease in the
United States between 1996 and 2002.
Although a full explanation of HACCP is beyond the scope
of this book, we can provide a brief introduction to its principles
for those who have heard the term and have wondered
what it means. The protocol is actually part of an international
standard for industrial-scale food safety and management
called ISO 22000. But HACCP assessment is a useful concept
for all cooks because it forces them to think systematically
about how they make food and what could go wrong. It
comprises the following principles:
1. Conduct a hazard analysis. Review each step in food
preparation and cooking processes to identify where and
when food safety hazards might appear.
2. Find critical control points. These are the steps in the
production process during which problems such as
unsafe temperatures or contamination could occur.
3. Create critical safety limits. Establish a limit, such as
a temperature or time minimum, a time-andtemperature
combination, or a use-by date, for each
critical control point in the production process.
4. Set critical control point monitoring procedures. Make
a plan to ensure that the critical control points stay within
their safety limits.
5. Define corrective actions. These rules spell out what to
do when a critical control point limit is not met.
6. Keep records. Record-keeping should encompass all
aspects of the HACCP plan: the control points, their
limits, monitoring procedures, and corrective actions.
7. Validate. Devise a way to measure end points or results
that show the HACCP system is working as planned.
As you can see, HACCP is about planning and documenting
food production in a very detailed way. It’s required for all
commercial food factories and for New York City restaurants
that use sous vide cooking (see The New York Sous Vide
Hysteria, page 188), although it’s not generally appropriate for
restaurants.
Just as building a large structure without a full set of blueprints
would be foolhardy, an incomplete HACCP plan would
be hard to execute properly. But just as the blueprints don’t
guarantee architectural success, no food safety plan can work
if it isn’t followed, and a faulty plan can be problematic even if
followed religiously. Food prepared under an HACCP plan is
not intrinsically safer just because the plan is in place. But the
discipline of creating an HACCP plan and following it can help
prevent food safety problems that might otherwise occur.
HACCP, of course, is not infallible. Two major outbreaks of
foodborne illness in the United States—one linked to Escherichia
coli-contaminated spinach in 2006 (see The E. Coli
Outbreak of 2006, page 172) and another to Salmonellacontaminated
peanut butter in 2009—were ultimately traced
to large, regularly inspected plants with HACCP plans. In fact,
the spinach contamination was potentially worsened by a
critical control point procedure: washing the leaves. The wash
water spread contaminants from a few leaves to all the rest.
Because HACCP is about detailed planning and documentation
of things that cooks do naturally, it may strike you as
overly regimented and bureaucratic. Good chefs do the
equivalent of critical point monitoring when they sniff milk to
see if it has soured or when they check the use-by date on
food stored in a freezer. Remember that HACCP was intended
for large factories, not restaurants, and certainly not home
chefs. Nevertheless, the protocol has been made to work in
restaurants now that some local authorities require it.
HACCP got its start with
astronauts such as Eugene
Cernan, shown here eating
a meal aboard the Apollo 17
spacecraft.
194 VOLUME 1 · HISTORY AND FUNDAMENTALS
FOOD SAFETY 195