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Viruses have developed many ways

to invade their targets. A virus can

fuse with a cell, poke a hole in its

protective membrane, or try some

other tactic to get its genetic

information inside, such as injecting

that information into the host

cell or tricking the cell into engulfing

its attacker. Whatever method

the virus uses, the successful

delivery of DNA or RNA moves the

cycle of infection into high gear.

VIRUSES

Bacteria are tiny living things. Viruses are quite

different, so much so that they blur the distinction

between what is alive and what is just a complex

chemical.

A virus consists of at least two main components:

a biological information moleculeeither

DNA or RNAon the inside and a viral protein

coat, or capsid, on the exterior. A few varieties of

virus include a third component called an envelope,

which surrounds the capsid.

Think of a virus as a nanometer-scale syringe or

hypodermic needle. The “syringe” is the viral

protein coat, which is a complicated structure that

usually has a geometric shape. Its function is to

infect a host cell by injecting or otherwise inserting

the DNA or RNA into that cell, where it

mingles with the DNA and RNA of the host.

The information molecules of the virus contain

the blueprints for building more identical viruses.

Once inside the cell, the viral DNA or RNA

hijacks the cell’s own molecular machinery for

building proteins and forces it to makes copies of

the virus, thus effectively converting the cell into

A computer-generated model of

rotavirus particles shows proteins

that protrude from the surface of the

virus particles and bind to target cells

to help the virus gain entry.

a virus factory. The virus may also cause its host

cell to make toxins.

None of this activity is good for the cell, which

usually dies, sometimes bursting in the process to

release lots of new copies of the virus. As the

human immune system cleans up the dead cells

and responds to the virus, it produces inflammation

and other symptoms. Many viruses can block

their hosts from mounting an effective defense,

and some actually trick the host’s immune system

into attacking healthy cells.

Dangerous but Not Exactly Alive

Viruses differ from bacteria in many fundamental

ways that matter to food safety. Unlike bacteria,

which can increase their numbers dramatically on

or in foodeven precooked foodviruses can

reproduce only within the cells of living hosts. So

viral contamination levels, at worst, remain

constant in prepared food or ingredients; the

contamination does not increase over time.

Even though viruses do not reproduce independently

the way that bacteria do, they do reproduce

in a parasitic way, so they are subject to natural

selection. They co-evolve with their host species

and, over time, become quite specialized. Although

most viruses infect just a single species,

some adapt and cross over to infect other species.

The rabies virus, for example, can infect most

mammals, including humans. Meanwhile, the

influenza virus can infect humans and a few other

animalsnotably pigs and birdsand the West

Nile virus can infect humans, birds, and horses,

among other animals.

Many viruses specialize in infecting human

cells, and those that do are either neutral or

pathological. Unlike bacteria, which sometimes

benefit humans, no natural human viruses are

known to be beneficial. Nearly all viruses that

cause foodborne illness are specialized to live in

humans and do not infect plants or other animals.

Perhaps the most important way in which

viruses differ from bacteria is how they die.

Because viruses aren’t alive in the same way that

bacteria are, you can’t kill them: instead, you must

inactivate viral pathogens. Refrigeration or

freezing do not inactivate viruses, but heat can do

so. The thermal inactivation curve for a virus is

very similar to the thermal death curve for bacteria

that we discussed in the previous section on

bacterial death. Like thermal death, thermal

inactivation is an exponential phenomenon that

depends on time and temperature.

Unfortunately, much less is known about how

heat inactivates viruses than about how heat kills

bacteria. Unlike many bacteria, most viruses are

hard to grow in a laboratory. The problem is

particularly acute for foodborne viruses that infect

human gut cells; those cells can themselves be

difficult and expensive to culture.

Notorious Noroviruses

The noroviruses aptly illustrate the conundrum

that many viral pathogens pose to science. Although

noroviruses are among the most common

foodborne pathogens, thought to collectively

cause more than nine million cases of foodborne

illness each year in the United Statesand to

sicken many millions more around the globe

few details have emerged about the mysterious

microbes.

Noroviruses have been infecting humanity

from time immemorial, yet they were unknown to

THE M ATHEM ATICS OF

Spreading an Infection Around

A little math demonstrates how easy it is for noroviruses to

infect people. One study by researchers in Hong Kong

suggests that 1 g / 0.04 oz of feces from an infected patient

can harbor 300 million particles of norovirus genotype II, the

strain that accounts for most outbreaks. If that small amount

of feces were to get dispersed in an Olympic-size swimming

pool (about 2.5 million l / 660,000 gal), the resulting dilution

would still leave one viral particle per 8 ml / 1½ tsp of water.

A vegetable rinsed in that water could be infectious.

Contamination can build up at the source of the food as

well. Oysters or clams routinely become contaminated from

the discharge of raw sewage coming from the boats that

harvest them. One study showed that 85% of boats operating

in a productive oyster area in the U.S. in 1993 lacked proper

sewage-holding facilities, meaning that they instead discharged

their sewage directly into the sea—despite laws

science until an outbreak of foodborne gastroenteritis,

or intestinal inflammation, in 1968, at a

school in Norwalk, Ohio. Following that episode,

related viruses were found in similar outbreaks

worldwide. Microbiologists originally lumped the

burgeoning group under the name Norwalk virus.

They subsequently became known as Norwalklike

viruses (NLVs) then, in 2002, were officially

classified under the genus Norovirus.

It took some 40 years after noroviruses were

discovered for researchers to successfully cultivate

the viral particles in a laboratorya feat not

accomplished until 2007. In the meantime,

investigators learned what they could from genetic

sequencing of noroviruses’ viral RNA, epidemiological

studies of infected humans, and research

on related viruses that infect cats and mice.

Noroviruses mainly sicken humans, and

contamination occurs chiefly via the fecal–oral

route. Investigators of outbreaks have implicated

foods, such as salad dressing, raspberries, sandwiches,

and cake frosting, served in a wide range

of places, from schools to cruise ships to some of

the world’s best restaurants (see Food Poisoning

at The Fat Duck, page 155). According to CDC

estimates, infected food handlers are responsible

for half of all norovirus outbreaks. The viruses

can also affect people who eat foods that were

Noroviruses are among the most common

foodborne pathogens, but they were only

recently discovered, and their mechanism

of action remains unclear.

forbidding the practice. Investigations of three separate

gastroenteritis outbreaks suggested that a single crew member

who is stricken with a norovirus can contaminate miles of

oyster beds through fecal discharge into the water.

That may seem incredible, but consider that a single adult

oyster can suck in and spit out as much as 230 l / 60 gal of

seawater a day as it feeds on microorganisms that it filters out

of the water. Norovirus-contaminated feces that discharge

into the ocean and are diluted to a concentration of one virus

per 100 ml / 3.4 oz of water (12 times more dilute than in the

swimming pool example above) could theoretically expose

an oyster to some 2,300 viral particles every day. Because

oysters grow over a period of months or years, they filter

a tremendous amount of seawater, meaning that the virus can

survive and accumulate within oysters (or clams), then infect

a person who eats the shellfish.

152 VOLUME 1 · HISTORY AND FUNDAMENTALS

MICROBIOLOGY FOR COOKS 153

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