Carne, voglia d'eccellenza - B2B24 - Il Sole 24 Ore

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<strong>24</strong> QUALITALY IN PRIMO PIANO + FUORI PORTA <strong>Carne</strong>, il consumo è in calo: una disaffezione che rischia di mettere fuori uso i nostri canini, iniziata da circa un decennio con le carni rosse, a seguito delle epidemie da mucca pazza, e proseguite con le carni bianche per i polli alla diossina. Parallelamente a OTTOBRE-NOVEMBRE-2012 • www.ilgastronomade.com - Vittorio Castellani, in arte • CHEF KUMALÈ Non solo tagli pregiati in tavola: si risparmia e il gusto ci guadagna I PIACERI DELLA CARNE, basta il buon senso Non mancano gli estimatori di un buon bollito, bell’esempio di piatto gustoso realizzato con tagli cosiddetti “poveri”. questa tendenza si è assistito ad una new wave veggie, salutista, d’ispirazione animalista e naturista che ha a sua volta disincentivato il consumo di proteine animali. Come spesso succede, si tende a reagire a un problema adottando scelte estreme, come la messa al bando o la drastica riduzione del consumo di carni. Mentre è bene ricordare che una dieta equilibrata deve sì prevedere il consumo di vegetali, frutta e verdura, legumi, pani e farine integrali e pesce, ma non deve criminalizzare il consumo di carne. Va solo evitato l’abuso, dando via libera a carni provenienti da allevamenti controllati e sicuri. Se parliamo con Silvio Brarda, premiato artigiano macellaio di Cavour (To), scopriamo che in macelleria si vende oramai solo la parte più nobile del posteriore bovino, che equivale ad un 30% dell’animale. Una tendenza ben diversa da quella in auge nella cultura contadina di un tempo che predicava che dell’animale “non si butta via niente” e che vedeva anche nella gastronomia del quinto-quarto una buona pratica ecologica e in grado di farci risparmiare. L’invito è quindi a consumare anche i tagli più a buon mercato, indispensabili per preparare, per esempio, un buon bollito piemontese o un piatto di trippa alla orentina. Quando parliamo di qualità poi è bene sapere che la carne dell’animale ha gusto se la bestia viene allevata bene, senza stress, possibilmente non reclusa a vita nelle stalle in pochi metri quadrati, gon ata con estrogeni e anabolizzanti, ma allevata a terra con la possibilità di brucare erbe e ori e non solo mangimi. Diciamo sì allora al consumo di carni, ma in modo moderato, utilizzando tutti i tagli per farci risparmiare e soprattutto scegliendo prodotti a liera certi cata, a garanzia del benessere dell’animale.
QUALITALY IL GIORNALE DELLA RISTORAZIONE E DEL CATERING MODERNO AT PAGE 1 EDITORIAL Meat is… People ask for quality Written by Francesca Pulitanò In this edition, once again, we’ll go through the meat subject. Using the word “meat”means to point out some kind of people instead of others, some restaurant instead of others, some areas of the Peninsula instead of others. Or maybe not! Our advises are addressed to those who don’t appreciated it, to those who don’t cook it, and to those who live close to the beach where the main dish is, of course sh. If someone doesn’t like meat, maybe it’s because he/she has stopped at the stage before the one called “search of quality”; form all points of view, such as breeding and slaughtering. If the chef doesn’t pick a meat dish, it’s time to show him the secrets. If the rst row material useful is the sea, well, this is the best occasion to make a big change. To those who’re experts, those who made meat their business card, we can just say: try to be very careful because e real success of a meat’s course, totally depends on the quality level of the price that you put on the table. Also it depends on the winner combination between sight and smell’s perceptions, of which the taste will be the obvious consequence. I believe the secret of a great meat restaurant, resides on the capacity of offering something that is impossible to make in our home, with instruments and modality that just make the difference. We live on a time when presenting a menu that is simply ne with rules, is not enough. Who sits on the table of a restaurant, normally assumes that the courses justify the price. This is the reason why we offer a guide of meat cuisine, an aliment that is loved and challenged, that lives on the freshness wire. It is the aliment that by itself can make a special dinner. AT PAGE 4 ITALIAN RESTAURANTS The recipes that capture the customer Good examples and great restaurants all around Italy Written by Massimiliano Rella Certi cation, supply chain, storage, vacuum, con dence in the supplier are all essential aspects for a restaurateur who is used to work with meat quality. At Antichi Sapori of Tramonti, for instance, in the inland of Costiera Amal tana (Amal coast), the young chef Giuseppe Francese, checks very carefully the traceability and the animal’s alimentation before making purchases (www.cucinaantichisapori.it). His restaurant’s got a double soul: on summer they offer mostly sh; they begin offering meat, instead, with the arrival of the fall, right when the wood of the area is getting ready to make typical great fruits and vegetables, such as mushrooms and chestnuts. Francese crops the vegetables from his family garden and he buys meat, both from the local suppliers, with whom he has a trustful relation based on a direct knowledge, and from Toscan groups, like the Lem Carni. From the rst ones, he gets his stock of poultry, rabbits and pork, fed in a natural way, with little fruits and chestnuts that ensure the substance and avor of the raw material. From the second ones instead, he buys chianina, beef steaks and carpaccio. Everything for a lightened traditional cuisine, based on recipes like pork llet surrounded by pancetta and fresh mint little broad bean; the entrecote of beef grilled with balsamic vinegar or the toasted pork llet with chopped pistachios, which gets grilled at the later stage. These are all dishes, which should be accompanied by the typical tasty red wines of the area. First of all the Tintore di Tramonti, and the light rosè as well that is suggested with white meat. “For us, the die’s knowledge is on the base of our choice of purchasing”, says Giuseppe Francese. “We always try to get to the source to check out how the animals get treated. We rely on certi cations of quality and traceability; we rely on producers who have their own breeding, and when this can’t be realized, (like in the case of local pork and poultry suppliers), the direct knowledge is a must. Meat, as any other aliment, has to be cooked in the appropriated way and with right technics. The cooking time depends on the kind of recipes, or on the result we want to reach. For the classing grilled cooking, or the oven’s one, are being applied technics, such as vacuum and low temperature, which allow great results in terms of tenderness and preservation of the organoleptic properties. This works also when less noble animal’s parts get cooked, as it happens in a lot of regional cuisines, beginning with the one from Rome. The Osteria di San Cesario, at the gates of Rome, is the restaurant of the TV presenter, Anna Dente, a real roman woman, who would never cut a poor - gure on old movies with Alberto Sordi, Anna Magnani o Aldo Fabrizi (www. osteriadisancesario.it). Her trattoria, at San Cesario is destiantion of the majority of capital’s gourmets. The reason is very simple: they have just great traditional food, using products from the roman countryside. Here, sh wouldn’t be made because Ms Dente represents a historic butches’ family, who do know meat well. The restaurant was opened in 1995, as rst principal activity of the family Dente Ferracci; the butchery that was opened in 1947 today is closed, even though the activity keeps working exclusively on the Osteria. Her restaurant offers the OCTOBER-NOVEMBER-2012
Page 1 and 2: POSTE ITALIANE spa - SPED. IN A. P.
Page 3 and 4: Puntare sempre sulla qualità • D
Page 5 and 6: Subito pronte direttamente in frigg
Page 7 and 8: testo di Massimiliano Rella la cert
Page 9 and 10: fornelli di lucanerie, sempre ai Sa
Page 11 and 12: testo di Marina Bellati alcatra, cu
Page 13 and 14: OLIO EXTRA VERGINE DI OLIVA BIOLOGI
Page 15 and 16: istecche e affini». Attualmente la
Page 17 and 18: Il Pesto, fiore all’occhiello del
Page 19 and 20: testo di Marina Bellati Oggi le mar
Page 22: 20 QUALITALY IN PRIMO PIANO + LA RI
Page 25: testo di Manuela Soressi cializzazi
Page 29 and 30: spiedini (meat skewered on a stick)
Page 31 and 32: the end. Put the whole thing in a j
Page 33 and 34: At pAge 34 mArket Excellent row mat
Page 35 and 36: Noleggio a lungo termine di furgoni
Page 37 and 38: ■ NEW VECAGEL S.R.L. 95030 Tremes
Page 39 and 40: testo di Manuela Soressi Zanobi, re
Page 41 and 42: Consigliato dall’Associazione Pro
Page 43 and 44: Scopri il valore di Cirio Pom Art.
Page 45 and 46: testo di Nadia Rossi I modelli di c
Page 47 and 48: legia i tagli pregiati, dai quali
Page 49 and 50: testo di Nadia Rossi Un’alimentaz
Page 51 and 52: GINasIdEsIGN.It FILL&GO ECO PACK &
Page 53 and 54: Alcune immagini degli ultimi appunt
Page 56 and 57: 46 Q U A L I T A L Y N O R M A T I
Page 58 and 59: 48 QUALITALY INDIRIZZI ■ BERVINI
Page 60: www.smeraldiniemenazzi.it Sfoglia i

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