Carne, voglia d'eccellenza - B2B24 - Il Sole 24 Ore

II
q u a l I t a l y m a g a z I n e
old time Italian cuisine, good, abundant,
tasty, full of sauces and based on simple
meat dishes, entrails and offal. From her
father and from her grandfather, at the
slaughterhouse of monte compatri, the
sora anna learned to know the different
meat’s types and cuts. She also got to
know how to pick carefully the various
kinds of meat, in order to cook it later
on, using the best and suitable recipes,
and also to get tasty dishes gotten from
poor ingredients as well.
meat is cooked with different technics,
from the most classic roast meat,
the oven cooking and skillet, or all’allesso,
which is better booking with a little
advance.
a separate chapter are dishes prepared
with giblets: animelle with an addition
of lamb or with porcini mushroom
from monte algido, and then coratella
of lamb, Pajata of veal, mongana roast
and of course tripe, the fifth quarter of
the lazial tradition.
these are recipes that come from the
old times when people used to try not to
throw out any slaughter product, which
used to be picked up and cooked with
creativity in order to get tasty dishes
with a reasonable price.
another restaurant that valorizes
meat dishes is the new osteria Pico of
matera, where in the kitchen we have
enza leone, who for years has been
between stoves in lucanerie, before to
open her own beautiful restaurant. the
restaurant got housed in an old cistern
down twenty feet deep on multiple levels
(www.osteriapico.it). In the kitchen ms
leone has fun between rabbits all’alloro,
wild boar and porcini soup, cut of
lamb with vegetables sautéed with mint.
“cooking techniques are the traditional
from matera and lucca, which, in their
own way, represent our territory in a gastronomic
sense”–leone tells us. “For a
cuisine like ours, of course, the choice of
good ingredients is crucial. We rely on
a network of local suppliers with whom
we’ve already consolidated.”
another aspect to consider is the
storage of food in the fridge. Food should
be vacuumed, and maybe after a passage
in the blast chiller, if you anticipate long
periods of “rest”. “Due to the frequent delivery
and predictions that we can make
on the number of customers who’ll come
to eat; and thanks to our experience,
we can minimize the need for conservation
and consume immediately fresh
products. “giuseppe Francese from an-
o c t o b e r - n o v e m b e r - 2 0 1 2
tichi tramonti tells us ones again. “With
meats such as pork and poultry, then, we
must pay attention to avoid cases of salmonellosis.
the fresh product is placed
under vacuum, however, is a great guarantee
of quality and safety.”the world
of meat can also enhance local and indigenous
breeds, in addition to traditional
recipes or more creative thought. It ‘s the
case of the chianina or fassona, but also
the breed Podolica transhumant, as the
famous chef Pietro lecce from la tavernetta
is doing. la tavernetta is a great
restaurant in camigliatello, on the Sila
mountain, calabria, (www.latavernetta.
info).
the choice of raw materials is based
on a careful search for quality and the
use of local produce sourced as much as
possible through the short die. at la tavernetta
you can eat a good transhumant
Podolica meat. “the Podolica”– lecce
says –”is a breed of cattle reared mainly
in the inland areas of the south, from
which you get good quality meat and
milk in large quantities. We are talking
about amount of cattle with an exceptional
ability to adapt to harsh environments.
this breed is today in the middle
of a project of the consorzio a.Pro.zoo’s
valorization that reunite about twenty
farmers in the province of cosenza with
5 thousand leaders enrolled in the zoo,
also supported by the Park of Sila”. Farmers
share the goal of revaluating and
optimize the production to offer certificated
meats, which are well checked
out during all the productive steps. the
specification lays down precise rules for
the duration and temperature of aging,
as well as for the storage and selling.
about 600 capes go to slaughter after the
transhumance: 2 years old Podolica calves.
“the 35% doesn’t do stabilization in
the stable”, adds lecce “therefore, these
animals, which have the choice to move
free, have some less fat”.
among the dishes of this excellent
row material, at la tavernetta we can
find fusilli al ferretto with ragù (bolognesa
souce) di Podolica, smoked ricotta and
red crunchy onion from tropea; or the
tasty regal boccone with Podolica fillet
on bread crust, with cappell of porcine
Silano, mandarin jelly and strips of violet
cabbage and ristretto fo figs honey; or
more simple dishes, from guanciotte alla
lingua, like the millefoglie of Podolica’s
lingua.
a similar project to develop the
meat has been promoted recently by the
province of grosseto. on top of the initiative
we have the macchiaiolo pork,
the maremmani cattle and the lamb
of maremmana’s sheep. vagal’s project
has the goal to promote the use of these
meats among the local restaurants.
the first workshops were held on July
at Follonica, Scansano, Seggiano and
Pitigliano. these meats can be exalted
on dishes of the cuisine tradition with
other typical products, such as maremma’s
saffron, the cece from grosseto,
the bean cannellino from Sorano. In
other words, when we have to tell someone
about a country, meat surely won’t
be ever scared by the comparison with
his renowned enemy fish.
At pAge 8 restAurAnts
Where steak
is appreciated
even more
Trends, formulas and ideas
to help the business Written by Marina Bellati
W e love fatty! this is the catchphrase
used by Dario cecchini,
very well known butcher from Panzano
in chianti is as timely as ever, as the fortune
of restaurants specialized in meat.
the statistics confirm that: us Italians
do like meat and we consume on average
of 92 kg per person per year. Danes
beat us, but we overcome the english
population. although they have the paternity
of roast beef, they consume only
19 kg of beef per year, compared to nearly
23 of the Italians (2009 data, source:
eurostat /assocarni). and since in the
restaurant business, specialization is a
factor that differentiates and rewards, it
is not surprising that the restaurant’s owners
have caught the trend of the “meat
theme”restaurants. they have multiplied:
for example roadhouse grill (cremonini
group) has more than 36 steakhouse
in Italy, the last of which opened
in moncalieri with a turnover that got a
double-digit growth…
meat is actually the strongest aspect
of the elegant restaurant barbacoa (mi),
tenth churrascaria in the world from the
brazilian group barbacoa, as well as the
first that the group inaugurates in europe
(barbacoa.it) a refined restaurant
(the price is around 70 euro for a dinner
à la carte), which has got a wide space
between tables, in order to get an easy
passage for the passadores, waiters who
bring on the tables the long vertical