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†PER COUNTRY PER CAPITA<br />

*PRICES QUOTED ARE FOR A RETURN TICKET IN B.LIGHT ECONOMY FROM OR TO BRUSSELS, ALL TAXES AND FEES INCLUDED, IF BOOKED ON BRUSSELSAIRLINES.COM. TICKETS ARE NOT CHANGEABLE, NOR REFUNDABLE. PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE<br />

CZECH REPUBLIC Population 10,201,707 Currency Czech Koruna (CZK) GDP<br />

PRAGUE<br />

† €17,955 Dialling code +420<br />

Airport code PRG Flight frequency Three times daily Average temp (Nov) 1°C<br />

Christmas comes early<br />

in Prague – the Czech<br />

capital’s famed outdoor<br />

holiday markets are up<br />

and running from 27<br />

November. It’s time to<br />

explore an early winter<br />

wonderland. Julie O’Shea<br />

is our city guide<br />

STARÉ MESTO<br />

Wind your way through the city’s<br />

breathtaking Old Town, the perfect<br />

place to begin your journey.<br />

SLEEP A modern design from celebrated<br />

Czech architect Eva Jiricna, Hotel Josef<br />

(20 Rybná, tel. 221 700111, hoteljosef.<br />

com, rooms from €119/ CZK 2,930)<br />

doesn’t just boast a prime location but<br />

also serves one of the best breakfast<br />

buffets in town.<br />

CULTURE For classical music lovers, an<br />

evening concert at the Rudolfinum (12<br />

Alšovo nábreží), home of the Czech<br />

Philharmonic Orchestra, is a must.<br />

EAT U Knihovny (10 Veleslavinova, tel.<br />

732 835876) serves traditional Czech<br />

cuisine at prices normally only found in<br />

the outer districts. You can’t go wrong,<br />

whether you’re trying the goulash, potato<br />

soup or mushroom-stuffed chicken. This<br />

place fills up fast at weekends.<br />

SHOP Beneath the spires of the Tyn<br />

Church on Old Town Square, the city’s<br />

largest Christmas market opens for<br />

business on 27 November. Local<br />

merchants hawk seasonal specialities,<br />

from straw tree ornaments and wooden<br />

toys to Bohemian crystal and ceramic<br />

mugs – perfect stocking fillers.<br />

LATER Grab a nightcap at Café<br />

Montmartre (7 Retezová), a uniquely<br />

decorated spot hidden down a quiet<br />

alley. Order a glass of wine and toast<br />

the Czech writer Franz Kafka, a frequent<br />

patron here in the early 20th century.<br />

TIP Free Prague Tours (freepraguetours.<br />

eu) set off seven days a week at 11am<br />

and 2pm from the Old Town Square on<br />

Grand designs: the Hotel<br />

Josef, ideally located in<br />

Prague’s Old Town<br />

INFO<br />

Ruzyne<br />

International<br />

Airport is 10km<br />

from the centre.<br />

Bus The no. 119<br />

runs between<br />

the airport and<br />

Dejvicka metro<br />

station (line A)<br />

every 7-20<br />

minutes, taking<br />

about 25 minutes.<br />

Tickets cost €1/<br />

CZK 26 and are<br />

valid for 75<br />

minutes on all<br />

buses, trams<br />

and metros.<br />

Taxi A taxi to<br />

the city centre<br />

takes about 30<br />

minutes and<br />

costs around €24/<br />

CZK 600 – but<br />

always negotiate<br />

before you set off .<br />

Tourist offi ce<br />

The main offi ce is<br />

at 46 Vinohradská<br />

(tel. 221 580111,<br />

czechtourism.com).<br />

the corner of Parížská street. They<br />

provide a great introduction to all the<br />

main attractions, plus a few behind-thescenes<br />

scoops. Best of all, the licensed<br />

guides work for tips and lavish praise.<br />

NOVÉ MESTO<br />

The city centre, or New Town, is<br />

packed with hot nightspots and<br />

fabulous one-of-a-kind restaurants.<br />

SLEEP Pamper yourself with a Roman<br />

spa treatment at the upscale Boscolo<br />

Carlo IV Prague (13 Senovazne namesti,<br />

tel. 224 593111, boscolohotels.com,<br />

rooms from €119/CZK 2,930).<br />

CULTURE A heavyweight trio of Carmen,<br />

Aida and Tosca will take turns on centre<br />

stage this month at Prague’s stately<br />

National Theatre (2 Narodni divadlo).<br />

You can also enjoy a special night of<br />

Christmas music on 28 November.<br />

EAT Moravský Archiv Vin (11<br />

Navrátilova, tel. 296 325019) offers<br />

typical Czech meat-and-potato-based<br />

fare. What’s special is its extensive<br />

Moravian wine selection, which the<br />

staff will help you pair with the food.<br />

Stop in for lunch and take advantage<br />

of the reduced-rate daily specials.<br />

, g<br />

SHOP Decorated Christmas market<br />

huts crowd the south end of Wenceslas<br />

Square, where you can pick up woolly<br />

hats, scarves and gloves, scented candles<br />

and handmade jewellery, while staying<br />

warm with Svarák (hot wine).<br />

LATER Each table at the Beer Factory<br />

(58 Václavské namesti) comes equipped<br />

with its own tap, so you can keep the<br />

Pilsner Urquell coming all night long.<br />

VINOHRADY<br />

This trendy, expat-friendly district<br />

has a vibrant nightlife.<br />

SLEEP Check out the Czech Inn (76<br />

Francouzská, tel. 267 267612, czech-inn.<br />

com, private rooms from €38/CZK 932).<br />

Choose from dorm bunks, private rooms<br />

or apartments and then take advantage<br />

of the daily happy hour in the ground<br />

floor café, which also hosts trivia nights<br />

every Monday from 8pm.<br />

EAT Mirellie (23 Korunni, tel. 222<br />

521814) has the Mediterranean market<br />

covered. The menu is a mix-and-match<br />

of true perfection, from the grilled<br />

octopus and tuna tartare to the long<br />

list of risotto and linguine. It’s hard to<br />

know where to start.<br />

SHOP Popular with locals, the small<br />

neighbourhood Christmas market on<br />

Namesti Miru has fewer people and<br />

a low-key vibe. Take your time browsing<br />

the holiday gift offerings and make<br />

sure you try a trdelník: a pastry made<br />

from rolled dough and coated with<br />

cinnamon and lots of sugar.<br />

LATER Start the evening off relaxing<br />

with a cocktail in one of the comfy<br />

green-hued chairs or sofas in Radost<br />

FX’s back lounge (120 Belehradska),<br />

before heading to the dance floor<br />

downstairs, where local DJs spin tunes<br />

until the early morning hours. The club<br />

has weekly theme nights and monthly<br />

events to choose from.<br />

€119 *<br />

FROM JUST<br />

RETURN ALL-IN<br />

Fly to Prague from<br />

just €119* return all-in.<br />

brusselsairlines.com<br />

Brussels Airlines b.there! magazine November <strong>2010</strong> 121

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