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ITALY Population 58,090,681 Currency Euro GDP<br />

VENICE<br />

† €21,555 Dialling code +39<br />

Airport code VCE Flight frequency Twice daily Average temp (Nov) 7°C<br />

November sees the fi rst<br />

cold mists descend on the<br />

Venetian lagoon, giving<br />

its canals a brooding and<br />

even more alluring sense<br />

of romance. The peace<br />

will be shattered during<br />

the Feast of San Martino<br />

(11 November), when kids<br />

clatter around the city<br />

banging pots and pans.<br />

Robin McKelvie is our<br />

city guide<br />

SAN MARCO<br />

The epicentre of tourist Venice<br />

contains some of the world’s<br />

most beguiling architecture.<br />

SHOP Luna Hotel Baglioni (1243 San<br />

Marco, tel. 041 528 9840, baglionihotels.<br />

com, rooms from €260) is said to be<br />

a favourite of Sean Connery and Nelson<br />

Mandela, and offers serious luxury.<br />

EAT Osteria Enoteca San Marco<br />

(Frezzeria, tel. 041 528 5242) is a cut<br />

above average, with delicious home<br />

cooking and a spot-on wine list. Aqua<br />

Pazza (3808 Campo San Angelo, tel. 041<br />

277 0688) is a rare budget option – the<br />

fish risotto for two is excellent.<br />

CULTURE The Festa della Madonna<br />

della Salute (21 November) is held to<br />

commemorate a plague that wiped out<br />

a third of the Venice population between<br />

1629 and 1631. A votive bridge links San<br />

Marco (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio)<br />

and Dorsoduro, which thousands cross to<br />

visit the altar of the Salute Church.<br />

TIP Piazza San Marco is legendary for its<br />

cafés, which vie for your custom with live<br />

classical music. They charge a fortune for<br />

a coffee, but their cheapest wine often<br />

costs little more than coffee for two.<br />

INFO<br />

Venice Marco Polo<br />

airport is at Tessera,<br />

about 8km from<br />

the centre.<br />

Bus The ACTV<br />

no. 5 to Piazzale<br />

Roma takes about<br />

20 minutes and<br />

costs €2,50. The<br />

ATVO shuttle takes<br />

15-20 minutes<br />

and costs €3.<br />

Boat Alilaguna<br />

launches run from<br />

about 500 metres<br />

from Arrivals:<br />

6.10am-12.10am<br />

to San Marco,<br />

8.45am-6.45pm<br />

as far as Zattere.<br />

Tickets cost €13<br />

(alilaguna.it).<br />

Taxi A taxi to<br />

Piazzale Roma<br />

costs about €30.<br />

A private water taxi<br />

costs €100-€150.<br />

Tourist offi ce<br />

71F Piazza San<br />

Marco (tel. 041<br />

529 8711 turismo<br />

venezia.it).<br />

Sculpture by Marino Marini is just<br />

one of the delights of the canalside<br />

Peggy Guggenheim Collection<br />

DORSODURO<br />

An often forgotten area, home to<br />

quiet canals and relaxed spots.<br />

CULTURE The Peggy Guggenheim<br />

Collection (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni)<br />

deserves its reputation, with works by<br />

modern masters like Dali and Picasso.<br />

EAT Gondolieri (San Vio, tel. 041 528<br />

6396), an old-world retreat, is a great<br />

place to sample genuine Veneto cooking.<br />

LATER Bright bar/restaurant Orange<br />

(Campo Santa Margherita) is a popular<br />

stop on the trendy Campo Santa<br />

Margherita mini-scene.<br />

SAN POLO<br />

San Polo is home to the Rialto<br />

Bridge and some of the most scenic<br />

stretches of the Grand Canal.<br />

EAT A stone’s throw from the Rialto<br />

Bridge is Muro (Rialto Market, 222 San<br />

Polo, tel. 041 523 7495). Munch snacks<br />

at the osteria downstairs, or enjoy<br />

By air to Venice, by boat to us!<br />

E. sanclemente@thi.it | www.sanclementepalacevenice.com<br />

something more substantial upstairs.<br />

You can eat with the locals at Da Renato<br />

(Rio Terà Secondo, tel. 041 524 1922),<br />

a favourite with hungry gondoliers.<br />

LATER The Pizzeria 900 Jazz Club,<br />

(Campiello del Sansoni, 900 San Polo)<br />

is a decent option in sleepy Venice.<br />

SHOP La Bottega dei Mascareri (Ponte<br />

di Rialto, 80 San Polo) is one of the most<br />

celebrated outlets for papier-mâché<br />

masks. For glasswork, Lucio Bubacco<br />

(Calle Rughetta) features remarkable<br />

works sculpted on the island of Murano.<br />

TIP If you don’t want to splash out on<br />

a gondola ride you can nip across the<br />

Grand Canal on one of the traghetti<br />

public gondolas from Fondamenta del<br />

Vin. The catch? You’re expected to stand.<br />

GIUDECCA<br />

This classy island reclines on an<br />

oasis of calm just across from<br />

the tourist bustle.<br />

SLEEP The grand old Hotel Cipriani<br />

(10 Giudecca, Tel. 041 520 7744,<br />

hotelcipriani.com, rooms from €720)<br />

is Venice’s most famous hotel. Hilton<br />

Molino Stucky (810 Giudecca, tel. 041<br />

522 1267, hilton.com/Venice, rooms<br />

from €171) opened in 2007 in an<br />

impressively revamped flour mill.<br />

EAT The Cipriani’s Fortuny Restaurant<br />

(10 Giudecca, tel. 041 520 7744) is<br />

perhaps the most romantic and polished<br />

fine dining experience in the city. Harry’s<br />

Dolci (773 Giudecca, tel. 041 522 4844)<br />

is almost as good, with great views.<br />

TIP Take a promenade at sunset along<br />

the waterfront and watch the sun melt<br />

over this most dreamy of cities.<br />

€99 *<br />

FROM JUST<br />

RETURN ALL-IN<br />

Fly to Venice from<br />

just €99* return all-in.<br />

brusselsairlines.com<br />

†PER COUNTRY PER CAPITA<br />

*PRICES QUOTED ARE FOR A RETURN TICKET IN B.LIGHT ECONOMY FROM OR TO BRUSSELS, ALL TAXES AND FEES INCLUDED, IF BOOKED ON BRUSSELSAIRLINES.COM. TICKETS ARE NOT CHANGEABLE, NOR REFUNDABLE. PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE

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