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Radical Middle | 173<br />
set up a delicatessen in Beit Street, which was rue rivoli and<br />
Heerengracht and Park avenue rolled into one.<br />
By 1988, Doornfontein was the back side of town. The<br />
common term would be arse end, but I’m being polite. Beit<br />
Street was brothels; rooms by the hour. To the gentry and the<br />
high society, Doornfontein was as far as Timbuktu. and here<br />
had I recently been introduced, by one Patrick McLaughlin, Pr<br />
guy and fellow sufferer from infatuation with thirsty impractical<br />
ancient Jaguars, unto Wachenheimer’s delicatessen.<br />
This was startling. I thought I knew my city as well as anyone<br />
short of a taxi driver. I’d never heard of this jewel, which had<br />
been here for twice my lifetime. Well, now I had. Where better<br />
to take the most dashing of corporate chairmen? He knew the<br />
smart places, all right, doubtless too well. He’d get quite some<br />
frisson, roughing it in Beit Street. I sent a map with the venue,<br />
imagining him and a sharp executive secretary going wideeyed.<br />
On the morning I wondered: did Wachenheimers do wine? I<br />
rang and the voice on the phone was unhesitant: no, wine was<br />
not served. No problem; I went out to purchase a chilled Grand<br />
cru with an ice wrapper. Mr Organiser, hey? a fleeting thought<br />
flitted: they wouldn’t be anti-liquor, would they; religious or<br />
something? Indeed, there’d been Hebrew stuff all around, the<br />
day with Patrick. But no, we’d had beer. I recalled it clearly.<br />
I’m first and I bring in my Grand cru. a young Wachenheimer<br />
politely says very sorry but no wine here please. I say, but, but,<br />
but, we drank beer...<br />
Wachenheimer Jr is explaining why beer can be kosher but<br />
wine cannot when Tony arrives and the place erupts.<br />
I’d forgotten that Tony is Jewish. Why did I do that? for a<br />
terrific reason; I’d stopped noticing. Once, everyone who failed<br />
to be born anglo-Saxon was a Something; a Jew, a coloured, a<br />
afrikaner... By 1988, here was proof, I didn’t notice Jews. One day<br />
I won’t notice anybodies.<br />
Not only was Tony Jewish but his dad, Joe, the legendary<br />
founder of Premier Milling, had been at school with half the