feature SKIN SOS IS YOUR SKIN CRYING OUT FOR HELP? WE RUN THROUGH THE CAUSES, SYMPTOMS AND TREATMENTS OF SOME OF THE MOST COMMON SKIN COMPLAINTS – FROM A TO Z. CAITLIN BISHOP REPORTS. 64 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature It’s easy to tell when your skin sends out an SOS. Your once-clear complexion may have erupted in a seemingly unstoppable outbreak of acne, it may appear red <strong>and</strong> flushed, or dry <strong>and</strong> cracked. Too long spent in the sun may have fast tracked your path to fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles, <strong>and</strong> pigmentation may be starting to rear its head. Here, we get to know some of the most common skin concerns, investigating the causes, symptoms <strong>and</strong> cures. Ais for Acne Thought to affect up to 80 percent of girls aged 15 to 16 <strong>and</strong> 95 percent of boys aged 17 to 18, acne vulgaris is the bacterial infection of the pilosebaceous unit, or the hair follicle <strong>and</strong> its adjacent sebaceous gl<strong>and</strong>s. And its not just adolescents who are affected by the dreaded outbreaks; it affects adults too, with women far more likely than men to continue to suffer acne into adulthood. Acne develops within the skin’s pores. Fine hairs grow through these pores, alongside sebaceous gl<strong>and</strong>s that produce oil to lubricate the hair <strong>and</strong> protect the skin. In response to a number of factors, most predominantly the rise of testosterone levels in both males <strong>and</strong> females during puberty, these sebaceous gl<strong>and</strong>s can begin to secrete excessive oil, termed sebum. This oil, combined with a build up of dead skin cells, can plug the pore, creating an optimum breeding ground for bacteria. As hypercolonisation of bacteria occurs, so too does the formation of a pusstrapped, inflamed pimple. Blackheads, whiteheads, pustules <strong>and</strong> cysts are all forms of acne <strong>and</strong> can ultimately lead to scarring, not to mention affecting self-confidence. From toothpaste cleansers to oatmeal paste masks, it seems every remedy type has been tried <strong>and</strong> tested in a bid to clear the spots of acne. Mild acne can usually be treated with regular skin cleansing, topical moisturisers <strong>and</strong> dietary adjustments. Moisturisers rich in active ingredients will strengthen the skin’s protective oil/water layer <strong>and</strong> improve the integrity of its structure, making it more resistant to infection <strong>and</strong> more efficient in shedding dead skin cells. In more severe cases, medical grade treatment is often required. Prescription ointments can reduce levels of the Propionibacterium acne, the bacteria responsible for most acne infections, while antibiotics can fight the same bacteria or reduce testosterone hormone levels in the body. However, these treatments dehydrate the skin <strong>and</strong> can cause redness, irritation <strong>and</strong> sensitivity to sunlight. Laser therapy, chemical peels, microdermabrasion <strong>and</strong> light induction therapy can also be effective in reducing the appearance of acne <strong>and</strong> acne scarring. Dis for dehydration As much as 60 percent of the body is comprised of water <strong>and</strong>, with the skin its largest organ, it makes sense you need to keep your skin hydrated. Tired, aged, wrinkled <strong>and</strong> pimpled skin are all signs of dermal dehydration, where enzyme activity is impaired <strong>and</strong> skin health has deteriorated. Quite simply, to regain <strong>and</strong> retain hydration, the skin’s oil barrier, known as the acid mantle, must be restored. The acid mantle – the outermost layer of the epidermis – is secreted by the sebaceous gl<strong>and</strong>s to keep water <strong>and</strong> nutrients circulating between skin cells in the epidermis, preventing water loss <strong>and</strong> protecting against pathogens. When the acid mantle is depleted, ‘transepidermal water loss’ occurs <strong>and</strong> enzyme activity, which is dependent on water <strong>and</strong> responsible for the correct functioning of skin cells, is compromised. Water intake, humidity, lymphatics <strong>and</strong> essential fatty acids can influence dehydration <strong>and</strong> enzyme activity. Increasing the amount of water consumed, upping your exercise regime <strong>and</strong> supplementing your diet with omega oils can boost the amount of water reaching the epidermis through the dermalepidermal junction <strong>and</strong> maintain hydration within the skin. These changes, complemented with a diligent skincare regime, can restore enzyme activity <strong>and</strong> reduce the premature signs of ageing associated with dehydration. A home-care range for dry skin should incorporate hyaluronic acid to attract water, antioxidants to regenerate <strong>and</strong> repair, <strong>and</strong> vitamin A to stimulate the dermis <strong>and</strong> normalise cell function. www.cosbeauty.com.au 65