Cosmetic Surgery and Beauty Magazine #68

feature
It’s easy to tell when your skin sends out an SOS. Your
once-clear complexion may have erupted in a seemingly
unstoppable outbreak of acne, it may appear red and
flushed, or dry and cracked. Too long spent in the sun may
have fast tracked your path to fine lines and wrinkles, and
pigmentation may be starting to rear its head. Here, we
get to know some of the most common skin concerns,
investigating the causes, symptoms and cures.
Ais for Acne
Thought to affect up to 80 percent of girls aged
15 to 16 and 95 percent of boys aged 17 to
18, acne vulgaris is the bacterial infection of the
pilosebaceous unit, or the hair follicle and its
adjacent sebaceous glands. And its not just adolescents
who are affected by the dreaded outbreaks; it affects adults
too, with women far more likely than men to continue to
suffer acne into adulthood.
Acne develops within the skin’s pores. Fine hairs grow
through these pores, alongside sebaceous glands that
produce oil to lubricate the hair and protect the skin. In
response to a number of factors, most predominantly the
rise of testosterone levels in both males and females during
puberty, these sebaceous glands can begin to secrete
excessive oil, termed sebum. This oil, combined with a
build up of dead skin cells, can plug the pore, creating an
optimum breeding ground for bacteria. As hypercolonisation
of bacteria occurs, so too does the formation of a pusstrapped,
inflamed pimple. Blackheads, whiteheads,
pustules and cysts are all forms of acne and can ultimately
lead to scarring, not to mention affecting self-confidence.
From toothpaste cleansers to oatmeal paste masks, it
seems every remedy type has been tried and tested in a bid
to clear the spots of acne. Mild acne can usually be treated
with regular skin cleansing, topical moisturisers and dietary
adjustments. Moisturisers rich in active ingredients will
strengthen the skin’s protective oil/water layer and improve
the integrity of its structure, making it more resistant to
infection and more efficient in shedding dead skin cells.
In more severe cases, medical grade treatment is often
required. Prescription ointments can reduce levels of the
Propionibacterium acne, the bacteria responsible for
most acne infections, while antibiotics can fight the same
bacteria or reduce testosterone hormone levels in the
body. However, these treatments dehydrate the skin and
can cause redness, irritation and sensitivity to sunlight.
Laser therapy, chemical peels, microdermabrasion and
light induction therapy can also be effective in reducing the
appearance of acne and acne scarring.
Dis for dehydration
As much as 60 percent of the body
is comprised of water and, with the
skin its largest organ, it makes sense
you need to keep your skin hydrated.
Tired, aged, wrinkled and pimpled skin are all signs
of dermal dehydration, where enzyme activity is
impaired and skin health has deteriorated. Quite
simply, to regain and retain hydration, the skin’s oil
barrier, known as the acid mantle, must be restored.
The acid mantle – the outermost layer of the
epidermis – is secreted by the sebaceous glands
to keep water and nutrients circulating between
skin cells in the epidermis, preventing water loss
and protecting against pathogens. When the acid
mantle is depleted, ‘transepidermal water loss’
occurs and enzyme activity, which is dependent on
water and responsible for the correct functioning of
skin cells, is compromised.
Water intake, humidity, lymphatics and essential
fatty acids can influence dehydration and enzyme
activity. Increasing the amount of water consumed,
upping your exercise regime and supplementing
your diet with omega oils can boost the amount of
water reaching the epidermis through the dermalepidermal
junction and maintain hydration within the
skin. These changes, complemented with a diligent
skincare regime, can restore enzyme activity and
reduce the premature signs of ageing associated
with dehydration. A home-care range for dry skin
should incorporate hyaluronic acid to attract water,
antioxidants to regenerate and repair, and vitamin A
to stimulate the dermis and normalise cell function.
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