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Beer : Health and Nutrition

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32 Chapter Two<br />

In those far-off times, beer featured centrally as a foodstuff rather than as an accompaniment.<br />

Hesseltine (1979) indicates that a typical consumption must have been about<br />

a litre per day at 2% alcohol. The straw used for drinking was of clay or reed for the<br />

general population, but gold or silver for the rich <strong>and</strong> powerful. Some 40% of the grain<br />

in Sumeria was used for beer production. A workman in the temple got 1.75 pints per<br />

day, with senior dignitaries getting ve times that level (Singer et al. 1954–58).<br />

By the early Egyptian period the contemporary brewing practices were rmly in<br />

place (Tannahill 1973). Dough was made from sprouted <strong>and</strong> dried grains <strong>and</strong> partially<br />

baked. These loaves were then broken up <strong>and</strong> soaked in water <strong>and</strong> allowed to ferment<br />

for about a day. Then the liquid was strained off <strong>and</strong> the beer was ready for drinking. As<br />

Singer observes, Egyptian brewers were soon making variously spiced <strong>and</strong> avoured<br />

beer breads, allowing for a diversity of beers. There was a superintendent of breweries<br />

to ensure that purveyors only made available the best <strong>and</strong> purest products (Fleming<br />

1975).<br />

Of course they had no control over the yeast because they had no notion that it existed,<br />

although they would have discovered that older cracked jars, with more hiding places<br />

for organisms ‘naturally selected’ for the purpose, would have given better results. It<br />

wasn’t until later that Pliny the Elder (AD 23–79) reported that the Gauls <strong>and</strong> Iberians<br />

were skimming beer for the purpose of re-inoculating the next batch. The brewers were<br />

women, who sold their beer from home. The Code of Hammurabi (1750 BC) condemned<br />

alehouses for their under-strength <strong>and</strong> over-priced beers <strong>and</strong> also had a decree regarding<br />

those who diluted the beer (Saggs 1965). Those who overcharged for their beer were<br />

to be drowned.<br />

In Egypt the most common beer was haq (hek) made from the red barley of the Nile<br />

(Tannahill 1973). Compared to some other products that we believe reached alcohol<br />

contents similar to modern wines (i.e. about 12%), haq seems to have been quite ‘mild’.<br />

Bread, beer <strong>and</strong> onions seemed to form the basic diet of the dynastic Egyptian peasant.<br />

<strong>Beer</strong> was deemed to be essential for general wellbeing. The Ebers papyrus, a sort of<br />

pharmacists’ st<strong>and</strong>ard text, listed the ingredients for diverse medicines, of which more<br />

than 100 of the 700 were made with beer (Fleming 1975).<br />

Brewing travels west<br />

The Egyptians passed on their brewing techniques to the Greeks, though wine was<br />

the preferred drink for that empire <strong>and</strong> also for the Romans. Greek tradition says that<br />

Dionysus ed from Mesopotamia in disgust owing to its people being addicted to beer<br />

(Tannahill 1973). <strong>Beer</strong> was the mainstay of more northern cultures <strong>and</strong> the Germanic<br />

<strong>and</strong> Celtic races. In the rst century AD the Britons <strong>and</strong> Hiberni (Irish) were making<br />

kourmi from barley, a crop that had probably been cultivated in Engl<strong>and</strong> since 3000 BC

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