development <strong>of</strong> the fashion <strong>of</strong> one particularperiod. The second part provides thetheoretical analysis. If there is a problemwith The Culture <strong>of</strong> Fashion, it is an embarrassment<strong>of</strong> riches. It attempts to cover 700years <strong>of</strong> fashion history in a mere 7 chapters;sometimes, this abundance <strong>of</strong> materialscreates clutter rather than clarity.Breward also reproduces extensive quotations,at times running to over twenty lines.In one instance, Breward cites a social historianwho in turn quotes Arjun Appadurai<strong>and</strong> Igor Kopyt<strong>of</strong>f. This methodology hasits intertextual interests, but one wouldprefer to hear the author's voice more<strong>of</strong>ten. The problem <strong>of</strong> the over-crowding <strong>of</strong>materials becomes most noticeable in thelast two chapters, which are devoted to the20th century. Although Breward allows thiscentury extra space, his study <strong>of</strong> the intricacies<strong>and</strong> tremendous innovations <strong>of</strong> 20thcenturyfashion design still lacks coherence.As Breward himself admits, when speaking<strong>of</strong> late twentieth-century fashion, "Theexplosion <strong>of</strong> the fashion system into a fragmented<strong>and</strong> highly diversified market...makes the task <strong>of</strong> constructing a linear history<strong>of</strong> style change impossible <strong>and</strong> perhapsirrelevant." There is simply too much <strong>of</strong>everything to be treated in the allotted space.Such is not the case with The IllustratedEncyclopedia <strong>of</strong>Victoriana. Lavishly illustratedwith colour-plates, it is the type <strong>of</strong>c<strong>of</strong>fee-table book which gives pea-size definitions<strong>of</strong> everything. The IllustratedEncyclopedia includes all kinds <strong>of</strong> abbreviatedinformation on the nineteenth century,from knick-knacks to architectural movements.Sometimes, this format is more thansufficient as, for example, the 12-line entryfor "summer dress." But for terms such as"prisons <strong>and</strong> jails," the cursory explanation<strong>of</strong> the social implication <strong>of</strong> these institutionsseems ludicrous. It would make moresense to exclude terms which deserve somedetailed attention <strong>and</strong> concentrate on thearchitectural <strong>and</strong> design items.Where The Illustrated Encyclopedia is adelight is in its h<strong>and</strong>ling <strong>of</strong> such obscureitems as "newel post light": "If the newelpost <strong>of</strong> the central stairway did not have afinial, chances are it had a light." The languagein this instance is crisply pr<strong>of</strong>essional<strong>and</strong> precise. Entries like this save the bookfrom over-indulgence. After all, how muchlace lambrequin can one take in a book?International CancritMickey Pearlman, ed.Canadian Women Writing Fiction. UP <strong>of</strong>Mississippi US$32.50Coral Ann HowellsMargaret Atwood. Macmillan £10.99<strong>Review</strong>ed by Barbara PellThese two books represent the two poles <strong>of</strong>international criticism <strong>of</strong> our national literature:naive, superficial generalization <strong>and</strong>sophisticated, knowledgeable literary analysis.In this case, as in some others, the formercomes from American sources <strong>and</strong> thelatter from a British critic.Mickey Pearlman is the editor <strong>of</strong> severalsimilar collections <strong>of</strong> essays <strong>and</strong> interviews<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> the companion volume to this,American Women Writing Fiction: Memory,Identity, Family, Space. She has assembledten critics who, according to the notes onContributors, are all Americans with nopedagogical or scholarly background inCanadian literature except for one Ph.D.student at Stanford who "is a displacedCanadian." They attempted to apply thefour "pervasive themes" from herAmerican text to a "similarly representativegroup <strong>of</strong> Canadians" <strong>and</strong> discovered,instead, that "the issue <strong>of</strong> identity was thelinchpin <strong>of</strong> Canadian writing by women—at least as we were seeing it." She tops thismind-boggling cliché by defining the differencebetween Canadians <strong>and</strong> Americansfrom the New York Times, the meaning <strong>of</strong>165
Books in <strong>Review</strong>Métis from Webster's, <strong>and</strong> the ethnicity <strong>of</strong>our aboriginal people as "nativeAmericans." This collection <strong>of</strong> introductoryessays on fourteen living Canadian womennovelists (Margaret Lawrence [sic!] is onlymentioned twice) is obviously intended fora novice American audience. Each essay isfollowed by an extensive primary bibliography;secondary source references are cursory<strong>and</strong> buried in the Endnotes (forexample, two journal articles <strong>and</strong> a NewYorker review on Margaret Atwood).The chapter on Alice Munro follows thethesis that "because her work is so closelyrelated to her life, <strong>and</strong> so thematically consistent. . . generalizations about setting <strong>and</strong>subject are possible" with homogenizedlists <strong>of</strong> biographical fallacies <strong>and</strong> examples<strong>of</strong> "fathers," "writers," "death," "sex" etc.Mavis Gallant is represented by plot summaries<strong>of</strong> five <strong>of</strong> her stories. The fifteenpages on Atwood's seven novels (up to Cat'sEye) are inevitably superficial, predicatedon the themes "that they are women's confessionalnarratives on a theme as old as'Know thyself" while "retaining that keytheme <strong>of</strong> the national literatures, the struggleto survive." The Québécois writers farebetter. Anne Hébert gets a solid, thoughbrief, introduction, <strong>and</strong> Martha M.Vertreace gives a twelve-page analysis <strong>of</strong>Marie-Claire Blais's Deaf to the City,though never indicating why that novelshould be especially favoured.Some <strong>of</strong> the chapters on less well-knownnovelists would be useful as introductionsfor American readers. While it is not truethat "scant attention has been paid to theissues <strong>of</strong> identity that pervade [JanetteTurner Hospital's] novels," Margaret K.Schramm gives them competent, if conventional,readings. Eight pages on AudreyThomas' six novels highlight a few keythemes. A chapter on Isabel Huggan <strong>and</strong>Jane Urquhart has some good insights onboth but never justifies juxaposing these"very different writers." Similarly, the sectionon S<strong>and</strong>ra Birdsell <strong>and</strong> Carol Shieldscontains some competent readings butfounders on the appalling intentionality<strong>and</strong> oversimplification that these writers"responding to the call to explore Canadianidentity using postmodern techniques ...depict women who may be pr<strong>of</strong>itablyviewed as metaphorical <strong>of</strong> the Canadiancondition," <strong>and</strong> therefore the "Canadianborn"Birdsell depicts Canada with "anger<strong>and</strong> prejudice" while the "American-born"Shields writes <strong>of</strong> "the nature <strong>of</strong> happiness<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> love." The final chapter on Canadianwomen <strong>of</strong> colour <strong>and</strong> the theme <strong>of</strong> immigration/assimilationbegins some interestingcommentary on Marlene NourbesePhilip, Joy Kogawa, <strong>and</strong> Beatrice Culleton<strong>and</strong> is therefore, for me, the most frustrating(<strong>and</strong> typical) section in the bookbecause, promising so much, it can deliverso little in eight pages <strong>of</strong> analysis.Coral Ann Howells, Reader in Canadianliterature at the University <strong>of</strong> Reading, hasalready written the kind <strong>of</strong> book that MickeyPearlman's should have been. Private <strong>and</strong>Fictional Words: Canadian Women Novelists<strong>of</strong> the 1970s <strong>and</strong> 1980s was a respectableaddition in 1987 to the Cancrit canon. Thepresent volume is part <strong>of</strong> the MacmillanModern Novelists series, the first <strong>of</strong> forty-sixstudies to be devoted to a Canadian (if oneexcepts Malcolm Lowry). This honour, <strong>of</strong>course, confirms Margaret Atwood's internationalstature. Although these volumes areintended as "introductions" to the novelists<strong>and</strong> their "major texts," Howells has produceda comprehensive <strong>and</strong> sophisticatedcritical study <strong>of</strong> all <strong>of</strong> Atwood's novels withdetailed close readings carefully supplementedby archival evidence <strong>and</strong> informedby a jargon-free use <strong>of</strong> contemporary theory.The first four chapters trace the "refigurations"<strong>of</strong> three significant Atwood themesacross her career with examples from early<strong>and</strong> late texts. The second four chaptersgive analyses <strong>of</strong> the remaining novels inchronological order, applying the same the-166
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