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International Journal Of Cosmetic Science • April 2012<br />

In vitro induction of apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity<br />

by cosmetic preservatives: application of flow cytometry<br />

as a complementary analysis by NRU<br />

Author information<br />

Carvalho CM1, Menezes PF, Letenski GC, Praes CE, Feferman IH, Lorencini M.<br />

Grupo Boticário<br />

Research and Innovation Department<br />

Biomolecular Research Laboratory<br />

Av. Rui Barbosa no. 3450, 83.065-260<br />

São José dos Pinhais, PR- Brazil<br />

camilamc@grupoboticario.com.br<br />

Abstract<br />

Preservatives are used in cosmetics to prevent microbial contamination; however, some<br />

preservatives are not free of allergenic and cytotoxic potential. Allergenicity and cytotoxicity<br />

potential values are major aspects of preservative safety, which determine limitations<br />

and maximum concentration dose in a cosmetic product. The purpose of this study was to<br />

investigate and compare the in vitro apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity-inducing potential<br />

of five different types of preservatives: Phenoxyethanol (PE), Propylparaben (PP), Methylparaben<br />

(MP), Benzyl Alcohol (BA) and Ethylhexyl Glycerine (EG). In vitro experiments<br />

were carried out on human dermal fibroblasts by a quantitative flow cytometry method,<br />

using specific cell markers (Annexin V, Propidium Iodide and H2AX). We compared the<br />

resulting cell viability by means of neutral red uptake (NRU) and established the IC(50) .<br />

Our results showed that PE, PP, MP and BA have similar cytotoxic mechanisms (high apoptosis<br />

and necrosis levels only at the test concentration of 1%), whereas EG showed only<br />

an apoptosis pathway. For genotoxicity, both parabens yielded the highest values. Results<br />

obtained by flow cytometry for necrosis were comparable to those produced by NRU; however,<br />

NRU does not distinguish apoptosis from necrosis. We propose that flow cytometry is<br />

a more sophisticated methodology for understanding the cytotoxic mechanisms of cosmetic<br />

preservatives and can be used to complement the NRU.<br />

“Our results showed that<br />

Phenoxyethanol [a vaccine ingredient] ...<br />

have similar cytotoxic mechanisms<br />

(high apoptosis and necrosis levels only<br />

at the test concentration of 1%) ...”<br />

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=22118339

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