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210<br />

Cuzco & the Sacred Valley C u O zC U R O S E S<br />

fine cross section of habitats from 4600m to<br />

below 1000m. Englishman Barry Walker is<br />

a self-confessed ‘birding bum’ and the best<br />

resident ornithologist to give serious birders<br />

plenty of enthusiastic advice. He has written<br />

a field guide, The Birds of Machu Picchu, and<br />

runs tour agency Birding in Peru (%22-5990;<br />

www.birding-in-<strong>peru</strong>.com) with bird-watching<br />

trips throughout Peru, Bolivia and Chile.<br />

Other Activities<br />

For a post-trek splurge, a number of spas<br />

offer massage services, including the highly<br />

professional Siluet Sauna & Spa (Map p204;<br />

%23-1504; Quera 253; h10am-10pm) and the luxurious<br />

Samana Spa (Map p198; %23-3721; www.<br />

samana-spa.com; Tecsecocha 536; h10am-7pm<br />

Mon-Sat). Beware of cheap massages touted<br />

in the street; most practitioners lack formal<br />

training and there are reports of massages<br />

getting much more intimate than expected.<br />

Sacred Valley Via Ferrata ADVENTURE SPORTS<br />

(%984-11-2732; www.naturavive.com; per person<br />

S160) ‘Iron Way’ in Italian, this climb features<br />

a series of ladders, holds and bridges<br />

built into a sheer rock face. First developed<br />

in the Italian Alps in WWII, it’s a way for<br />

reasonably fit non-rock climbers to have<br />

some adrenaline-pumping fun. It was constructed<br />

and is operated by rock-climbing<br />

and high-mountain professionals. In a stunning<br />

setting in the Sacred Valley, it features<br />

a 300m vertical ascent, a heart-hammering<br />

hanging bridge 200m above the <strong>valley</strong> floor<br />

and a 100m rappel. There is also a zip line<br />

(S160) accessed by a 40-minute hike. Each<br />

activity takes three to four hours and the<br />

price includes pickup and drop-off in Cuzco<br />

or Urubamba, climbing and lunch.<br />

Action Valley<br />

ADVENTURE SPORTS<br />

(Map p198; %24-0835; www.action<strong>valley</strong>.com; Santa<br />

Teresa 325; h9am-5pm Sun-Fri, closed mid-Jan<br />

to mid-Feb) Adventure park extraordinaire,<br />

this place is a terror for acrophobes and a<br />

blast for kids and juvenile adults. Offerings<br />

include paintball (S75), a 10-meter climbing<br />

wall (S36), a 122m bungee jump (S230) and<br />

a bungee slingshot (S230). It’s also possible<br />

to go paragliding (S315) from the mirador of<br />

Racchi. The park is 11km outside Cuzco on<br />

the road to Poroy.<br />

C Courses<br />

Cuzco is one of the best places in South<br />

America to study Spanish. Shop around –<br />

competition is fierce and students benefit<br />

with free cultural and social activities. Salsa<br />

lessons and cooking nights are more or less<br />

ubiquitous.<br />

The standard deal is 20 hours of classes<br />

per week, either individual or in groups of<br />

up to four people. Most schools will also let<br />

you pay by the hour or study more or less<br />

intensively. Rates usually run at around S16<br />

per hour for group lessons and S23 per hour<br />

for private lessons.<br />

Visit your school on a Friday to get tested<br />

and assigned to a group for a Monday start,<br />

or show up any time to start individual lessons.<br />

All schools can arrange family homestays<br />

and volunteer opportunities.<br />

Amigos<br />

LANGUAGE COURSE<br />

(Map p198; %24-2292; www.spanishcusco.com;<br />

Zaguan del Cielo B-23) A long-established<br />

nonprofit school with an admirable publicservice<br />

record.<br />

Excel Language Center»» LANGUAGE COURSE<br />

(Map p204; %23-5298; www.excel-spanishlan<br />

guageprograms-<strong>peru</strong>.org; Cruz Verde 336) Highly<br />

recommended for its professionalism.<br />

Fairplay<br />

LANGUAGE COURSE<br />

(Map p198; %984-78-9252; www.fairplay-<strong>peru</strong>.org;<br />

Choquechaca 188) A unique nonprofit NGO,<br />

Fairplay trains Peruvian single mothers to<br />

provide Spanish lessons and homestays.<br />

Students pay two-thirds of their class fees<br />

directly to their teachers. Individual classes<br />

only, priced according to the teacher’s level<br />

of experience.<br />

Proyecto Peru<br />

LANGUAGE COURSE<br />

(Map p198; %24-0278, 984-68-3016; http://proyec<br />

to<strong>peru</strong>centre.org; Calle Seite Cuartones 290) Also<br />

offers Quechua and business or medical<br />

Spanish. In a new downtown location.<br />

San Blas Spanish School LANGUAGE COURSE<br />

(Map p198; %24-7898; www.spanishschool<strong>peru</strong>.<br />

com; Carmen Bajo 224) Students enjoy the informal<br />

teaching here, in tune with the<br />

school’s location in the heart of bohemian<br />

San Blas.<br />

T Tours & Guides<br />

There are hundreds of registered travel<br />

agencies in Cuzco, but things change quickly,<br />

so ask other travelers for recommendations.<br />

Be aware that many of the small travel<br />

agencies clustered around Procuradores and<br />

Plateros earn commissions selling trips run<br />

by other outfitters, and this can lead to organizational<br />

mix-ups. If the travel agency

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