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oLas Chullpas CABINS $$<br />

(%20-1568; www.chullpas.pe; Pumahuanca Valley;<br />

s/d/tr/q S120/150/180/220; iW) Hidden 3km<br />

above town, these rustic woodland cottages<br />

make for the perfect getaway. Rooms feature<br />

comfortable beds and fireplaces. The<br />

site, nestled among thick eucalyptus trees,<br />

is spread out with inviting pathways and<br />

lounge areas with hammocks. There is also<br />

an open kitchen serving vegetarian food,<br />

holistic treatments and a sweat lodge (available<br />

on request).<br />

Much of the food is grown organically on<br />

site, and efforts are made towards composting<br />

and recycling. The affable Chilean owner<br />

also guides treks, especially to the Lares Valley.<br />

Highly recommended. Come with good<br />

directions, the roads are unmarked and not<br />

all taxi drivers know it.<br />

Río Sagrado Hotel LUXURY HOTEL $$$<br />

(%20-1631; www.riosagradohotel.com; d incl<br />

breakfast from S1311; iW) A design haven of<br />

cottage-style rooms with rough-hewn beams<br />

and exquisite accents of Ayacucho embroidery,<br />

this Orient Express property is the<br />

epitome of understated luxury. The steep<br />

hillside location affords privacy for rooms<br />

set on terraced pathways perfumed with jasmine<br />

blooms. Or enjoy the river view from<br />

hammocks set amidst cascading waterfalls.<br />

Service is smooth and top-notch.<br />

Facilities include a spa, hot tubs, a sauna,<br />

restaurant, and breakfast in a hot-air balloon<br />

suspended above the lawn.<br />

K’uychi Rumi BUNGALOW $$$<br />

(%20-1169; www.urubamba.com; d/q S470/810;<br />

iW) ‘Rainbow Stone’ in Quechua, this<br />

walled compound of two-story cottages<br />

tucked into gardens offers a lost retreat. It’s<br />

family-friendly and popular among European<br />

travelers. There are various configurations,<br />

but most are two-bedroom with kitchenette,<br />

fireplace and terrace balcony, linked<br />

by a labyrinthine trail with hummingbirds<br />

zipping around and very friendly dogs that<br />

guard the property. It’s between Km 74 and<br />

Km 75 on the main highway, more than 2km<br />

west of town.<br />

Sol y Luna BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$<br />

(%20-1620; www.hotelsolyluna.com; Fundo Huincho<br />

lote A-5; iWs) A bit of a living fairytale,<br />

this luxury property runs wild with whimsy.<br />

Fans of folk art will be overwhelmed – its<br />

43 casitas feature original murals and comic,<br />

oversized sculptures by noted Peruvian<br />

artist Federico Bauer. The playful feel spills<br />

over to bold tropical hues and a decor of<br />

carved wooden beds, freestanding tubs and<br />

dainty rod-iron chandeliers.<br />

French-Swiss owned, it all conspires to<br />

charm you. Avant-garde circus productions<br />

with former Cirque de Soleil artists provide<br />

evening entertainment. For daytime fun, Peruvian<br />

paso horses can be ridden on the fifteen<br />

hectares and beyond. With eccentric atmosphere,<br />

its acclaimed restaurant Wayra is<br />

the creation of Lima’s Malabar-famed chef,<br />

there’s also a more casual open-air offering<br />

featuring food tours and chef visits.<br />

Tambo del Inka LUXURY HOTEL $$$<br />

(%58-1777; www.libertador.com.pe; d from US$689;<br />

iWs) Just like Hogwarts, Tambo del Inca<br />

features its own train station – handy in this<br />

case for a morning jaunt to Machu Picchu.<br />

Stark and commanding, this Leed-certified<br />

hotel (with its own water treatment plant<br />

and UV air filters) occupies an immense riverside<br />

spread dotted with giant eucalyptus<br />

trees.<br />

The resource does not go unnoticed: eucalyptus<br />

is a staple of interior decor and even<br />

spa treatments. The hotel’s best features: the<br />

chromo-therapeutic indoor-outdoor pool<br />

which changes colors at night, and a hipster<br />

lounge with round tables with leather<br />

armchairs, backlit by an immense mural of<br />

fractured onyx. Rooms are appealing and<br />

comfortable, but it seems a little cheeky that<br />

standards like breakfast and wi-fi cost extra.<br />

Los Jardines HOTEL $<br />

(%20-1331; www.los-jardines-urubamba.com; Jr<br />

Convención 459; s/d S56/80) Noted for its very<br />

accommodating service, this reader-recommended<br />

family hotel occupies a large adobe<br />

home surrounded by flower gardens. Rooms<br />

are basic but clean, some feature large picture<br />

windows. The buffet breakfast served<br />

in the garden is extra. It’s within walking<br />

distance of the plaza.<br />

Hostal los Perales GUESTHOUSE $<br />

(%20-1151; ecolodgeurubamba.com; Pasaje Arenales<br />

102; r per person S25) Tucked down a hidden<br />

country lane, this welcoming family-run<br />

guesthouse offers good-value, basic rooms<br />

around lovely overgrown gardens. Its elderly<br />

owners are sweet, serving banana pancakes<br />

and sacha tomato jam from their own tree<br />

for breakfast. It’s easy to get lost, so take a<br />

mototaxi (S1) from the terminal.<br />

239<br />

Cuzco & the Sacred Valley T S U H L R E U E B S P A AC I M N G R B E A D VA L L E Y

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