peru-8-cuzco-sacred-valley
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oLas Chullpas CABINS $$<br />
(%20-1568; www.chullpas.pe; Pumahuanca Valley;<br />
s/d/tr/q S120/150/180/220; iW) Hidden 3km<br />
above town, these rustic woodland cottages<br />
make for the perfect getaway. Rooms feature<br />
comfortable beds and fireplaces. The<br />
site, nestled among thick eucalyptus trees,<br />
is spread out with inviting pathways and<br />
lounge areas with hammocks. There is also<br />
an open kitchen serving vegetarian food,<br />
holistic treatments and a sweat lodge (available<br />
on request).<br />
Much of the food is grown organically on<br />
site, and efforts are made towards composting<br />
and recycling. The affable Chilean owner<br />
also guides treks, especially to the Lares Valley.<br />
Highly recommended. Come with good<br />
directions, the roads are unmarked and not<br />
all taxi drivers know it.<br />
Río Sagrado Hotel LUXURY HOTEL $$$<br />
(%20-1631; www.riosagradohotel.com; d incl<br />
breakfast from S1311; iW) A design haven of<br />
cottage-style rooms with rough-hewn beams<br />
and exquisite accents of Ayacucho embroidery,<br />
this Orient Express property is the<br />
epitome of understated luxury. The steep<br />
hillside location affords privacy for rooms<br />
set on terraced pathways perfumed with jasmine<br />
blooms. Or enjoy the river view from<br />
hammocks set amidst cascading waterfalls.<br />
Service is smooth and top-notch.<br />
Facilities include a spa, hot tubs, a sauna,<br />
restaurant, and breakfast in a hot-air balloon<br />
suspended above the lawn.<br />
K’uychi Rumi BUNGALOW $$$<br />
(%20-1169; www.urubamba.com; d/q S470/810;<br />
iW) ‘Rainbow Stone’ in Quechua, this<br />
walled compound of two-story cottages<br />
tucked into gardens offers a lost retreat. It’s<br />
family-friendly and popular among European<br />
travelers. There are various configurations,<br />
but most are two-bedroom with kitchenette,<br />
fireplace and terrace balcony, linked<br />
by a labyrinthine trail with hummingbirds<br />
zipping around and very friendly dogs that<br />
guard the property. It’s between Km 74 and<br />
Km 75 on the main highway, more than 2km<br />
west of town.<br />
Sol y Luna BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$<br />
(%20-1620; www.hotelsolyluna.com; Fundo Huincho<br />
lote A-5; iWs) A bit of a living fairytale,<br />
this luxury property runs wild with whimsy.<br />
Fans of folk art will be overwhelmed – its<br />
43 casitas feature original murals and comic,<br />
oversized sculptures by noted Peruvian<br />
artist Federico Bauer. The playful feel spills<br />
over to bold tropical hues and a decor of<br />
carved wooden beds, freestanding tubs and<br />
dainty rod-iron chandeliers.<br />
French-Swiss owned, it all conspires to<br />
charm you. Avant-garde circus productions<br />
with former Cirque de Soleil artists provide<br />
evening entertainment. For daytime fun, Peruvian<br />
paso horses can be ridden on the fifteen<br />
hectares and beyond. With eccentric atmosphere,<br />
its acclaimed restaurant Wayra is<br />
the creation of Lima’s Malabar-famed chef,<br />
there’s also a more casual open-air offering<br />
featuring food tours and chef visits.<br />
Tambo del Inka LUXURY HOTEL $$$<br />
(%58-1777; www.libertador.com.pe; d from US$689;<br />
iWs) Just like Hogwarts, Tambo del Inca<br />
features its own train station – handy in this<br />
case for a morning jaunt to Machu Picchu.<br />
Stark and commanding, this Leed-certified<br />
hotel (with its own water treatment plant<br />
and UV air filters) occupies an immense riverside<br />
spread dotted with giant eucalyptus<br />
trees.<br />
The resource does not go unnoticed: eucalyptus<br />
is a staple of interior decor and even<br />
spa treatments. The hotel’s best features: the<br />
chromo-therapeutic indoor-outdoor pool<br />
which changes colors at night, and a hipster<br />
lounge with round tables with leather<br />
armchairs, backlit by an immense mural of<br />
fractured onyx. Rooms are appealing and<br />
comfortable, but it seems a little cheeky that<br />
standards like breakfast and wi-fi cost extra.<br />
Los Jardines HOTEL $<br />
(%20-1331; www.los-jardines-urubamba.com; Jr<br />
Convención 459; s/d S56/80) Noted for its very<br />
accommodating service, this reader-recommended<br />
family hotel occupies a large adobe<br />
home surrounded by flower gardens. Rooms<br />
are basic but clean, some feature large picture<br />
windows. The buffet breakfast served<br />
in the garden is extra. It’s within walking<br />
distance of the plaza.<br />
Hostal los Perales GUESTHOUSE $<br />
(%20-1151; ecolodgeurubamba.com; Pasaje Arenales<br />
102; r per person S25) Tucked down a hidden<br />
country lane, this welcoming family-run<br />
guesthouse offers good-value, basic rooms<br />
around lovely overgrown gardens. Its elderly<br />
owners are sweet, serving banana pancakes<br />
and sacha tomato jam from their own tree<br />
for breakfast. It’s easy to get lost, so take a<br />
mototaxi (S1) from the terminal.<br />
239<br />
Cuzco & the Sacred Valley T S U H L R E U E B S P A AC I M N G R B E A D VA L L E Y