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213<br />

YOUR SACRED VISION FOR SALE<br />

Shamanic ceremonies may be native to the Amazon, but they have become a hot commodity<br />

in Cuzco and the Sacred Valley. The psychedelic properties of the San Pedro and<br />

ayahuasca plants have earned them fame and piqued public curiosity and the interest<br />

of psychonauts who travel in search of these experiences. Extremely powerful drugs,<br />

they can be highly toxic in the wrong hands.<br />

Yet they are ubiquitous. In Cuzco, San Pedro is offered alongside massages by street<br />

hawkers; ayahuasca ceremonies are advertised in hostels. Of course, travelers can<br />

decide what is right and wrong for them. It’s important to note that these are not recreational<br />

drugs. A real shaman knows the long list of dos and don’ts for practitioners, and<br />

they screen participants. Ceremonies can require multiple days for preparation, fasting<br />

and extended rituals.<br />

It is hard not to be skeptical about a store-bought spiritual experience. Many<br />

cuzqueños believe that it’s a mockery to make these <strong>sacred</strong> ceremonies into moneymakers.<br />

Still, participating in a ‘guided ceremony’ can be a lot safer than scarfing down<br />

a powerful narcotic by yourself, as long as you trust the practitioners (in some cases,<br />

female guests have been attacked while under the influence). Avoid casual opportunities.<br />

Serious operations often use a medical questionnaire. It’s also advisable to look<br />

into ceremonies and ask previous participants about their experience before signing up.<br />

A good place to learn more about rituals of ayahuasca and San Pedro is the new Museo<br />

de Plantas Sagradas, Mágicas y Medicinales in Cuzco.<br />

photography tours and workshops over all<br />

of Peru, as well as shorter trips out of Cuzco.<br />

Alain Machaca Cruz<br />

GUIDED TOUR<br />

(%984-056-635, 973-220-893; alain_313@hotmail.<br />

com) Recommended for interesting alternative<br />

city tours where you can make chicha<br />

or see cuy farms, and hikes and visits to surrounding<br />

communities. Quechua and English<br />

spoken.<br />

Leo Garcia<br />

GUIDED TOUR<br />

(%984-70-2933, 984-75-4022; leogacia@hotmail.<br />

com) Personable, passionate and supremely<br />

knowledgeable about all things Inca.<br />

Raul Castelo»»<br />

GUIDED TOUR<br />

(%24-3234, 984-31-6345; raulcastelo10@hotmail.<br />

com) Has his own transport and specializes<br />

in customized tours to Sacred Valley, Machu<br />

Picchu, Cuzco, Cuzco–Puno and Lares.<br />

z Festivals & Events<br />

Cuzco and the surrounding highlands celebrate<br />

many lively fiestas and holidays. In<br />

addition to national holidays (p534), the following<br />

are the most crowded times, when<br />

you should book all accommodations well<br />

in advance:<br />

El Señor de los Temblores<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

(The Lord of the Earthquakes) This procession on<br />

the Monday before Easter dates to the earthquake<br />

of 1650.<br />

Crucifix Vigil<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

On May 2 to 3, a Crucifix Vigil is held on all<br />

hillsides with crosses atop them.<br />

Q’oyoriti<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

Less well-known than the spectacular Inti<br />

Raymi are the more traditional Andean rites<br />

of this festival (see the boxed text, p266),<br />

which is held at the foot of Ausangate the<br />

Tuesday before Corpus Christi, in late May<br />

or early June.<br />

Corpus Christi»»<br />

RELIGIOUS<br />

Held on the ninth Thursday after Easter,<br />

Corpus Christi usually occurs in early June<br />

and features fantastic religious processions<br />

and celebrations in the cathedral.<br />

Inti Raymi<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

Cuzco’s most important festival, the ‘Festival<br />

of the Sun’ is held on June 24. It attracts<br />

tourists from all over Peru and the<br />

world, and the whole city celebrates in the<br />

streets. The festival culminates in a re-enactment<br />

of the Inca winter-solstice festival<br />

at Sacsaywamán. Despite its commercialization,<br />

it’s still worth seeing the street dances<br />

and parades, as well as the pageantry at<br />

Sacsaywamán.<br />

Santuranticuy Artisan Crafts Fair FESTIVAL<br />

A crafts fair is held in the Plaza de Armas on<br />

December 24 (Christmas Eve).<br />

Cuzco & the Sacred Valley F C E u S zC T I O VA L S & E V E N T S

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