peru-8-cuzco-sacred-valley

uns an onsite girls foundation. Huge picture
windows and various balconies and
patios look toward the Plaza de Armas, a
20-minute walk or a five-minute taxi ride
away. It’s great for families – big rooms and
cots are available, and the rambling, grassy
garden is a perfect place for kids to run
around.
Torre Dorada Residencial GUESTHOUSE $$
(%24-1698; www.torredorada.com; Los Cipreses
N-5, Residencial Huancaro; s/d incl breakfast
S252/292; i) With lovely and original decor
in bright colors, Torre Dorada is a modern,
family-run hotel in a quiet residential district
close to the bus terminal. Though it
isn’t close to the action, guests rave about
the high quality of service. It offers free
shuttles to the airport, train stations and the
town center. Fluent English is spoken.
Hostal San Juan de Dios GUESTHOUSE $$
(%24-0135; www.hostalsanjuandedios.com; Manzanares
264, Urb Manuel Prado; s/d incl breakfast
S93/119; i) With a wonderful staff, this spotless
guesthouse is part of a nonprofit enterprise
that supports a hospital clinic and also
provides job opportunities for young people
with disabilities. The quiet, carpeted rooms
have large windows; most have twin beds,
though there’s one matrimonial double. Staff
help with everything from laundry services
to making international phone calls.
It’s a 30-minute walk or S6 taxi ride from
the city center, near shops and amenities.
5 Eating
Cuzco’s location, nearly dropping off the
eastern edge of the Andes, gives it access to
an unbelievable range of crops from highland
potatoes and quinoa to avocados and
ají picante (hot chili).
CENTRAL CUZCO
oCicciolina INTERNATIONAL $$$
(Map p198; %23-9510; Triunfo 393, 2nd fl; mains
S30-55; h8am-late) On the 2nd floor of a lofty
colonial courtyard mansion, Cicciolina has
long held its position as Cuzco’s best restaurant.
The eclectic, sophisticated food is divine,
starting with house-marinated olives,
continuing with crisp polenta squares with
cured rabbit, huge green salads, charred
octopus and satisfying mains like squid-ink
pasta and tender lamb.
The service is impeccable, and the warmlylit
seating will make any laid-back globetrotter
feel at home. Highly recommended.
CHEAP EATS
You might be sharing a table with office
workers on break at these popular
lunch spots. Often not advertised, a
lunchtime menú (set meal) includes
soup, a main course, a drink and sometimes
dessert.
Restaurante Egos (Arequipa 248;
menú S8)
Restaurante Chihuanhuay (Cuesta
el Almirante facing Museo Inka; menú S7)
Kukuly (Huaynapata 318; menú S7)
Q’ori Sara (Calle Garcilaso 290; menú S8)
oLa Bodega 138 PIzzERIA $$
(Map p198; %26-0272; Herrajes 138; mains S18-
35; h6:30-11pm Mon-Sat) Sometimes you are
homesick for good atmosphere and uncomplicated
menus. In comes La Bodega, a fantastic
laid-back enterprise run by a family
in what used to be their home. Thin crust
pizzas are fired up in the adobe oven, organic
salads are fresh and abundant and the
prices are reasonable. A true find.
Chicha NOVOANDINA $$$
(Map p198; %24-0520; Regocijo 261, 2nd fl; mains
S24-50) A Gastón Acurio venture serving up
haute versions of cuzqueño classics. Their
riff on anticuchos (beef skewers) is a delectable
barbecued octopus, grilled on skewers
with crisp herbed potato wedges. Other contenders
include rocoto relleno, the wontonstyle
sopa de gallina and chairo (beef soup)
served in a clay pot. The chicha morada is
beyond fresh.
Naturally, debate rages as to whether it’s
worth the price (and pretension): our vote
is yes.
Limo PERUVIAN $$$
(Map p198; %24-068; Portal de Carnes 236, 2nd
fl; mains S24-60; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat) Start
with a tart pisco sour, it’s the perfect compliment
to the fresh Peruvian-Asian seafood
creations. For starters, a basket of native potatoes,
served with sauces, is a fun change
from bread on the table. Tiraditos, strips
of raw fish in a fragrant sauce, simply melt
on the tongue. Other hits are the creamy
causas (potato dish) and sudadito, a mix
of greens, corn and seared scallops. Elegant
ambience and attentive service.
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Cuzco & the Sacred Valley E C AT u zC I N O G