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218 THE GUINEA PIG’S CULINARY RISE Cuzco & the Sacred Valley S C L u E zC E P O I N G Love it or loathe it, cuy, or guinea pig (or Cavia porcellus if you really must know), is an Andean favorite that’s been part of the local culinary repertoire since pre-Inca times. And before you dredge up childhood memories of cuddly mascots in protest, know that these rascally rodents were gracing Andean dinner plates long before anyone in the West considered them worthy pet material. Pinpointing the gastronomic history of the cuy, a native of the New World, is harder than trying to catch one with your bare hands. It’s believed that cuy may have been domesticated as early as 7000 years ago in the mountains of southern Peru, where wild populations of cuy still roam today. Direct evidence from Chavín de Huántar shows that they were certainly cultivated across the Andes by 900 BC. Arrival of the Spanish in the 18th century led to the European debut of cuy, where they rode a wave of popularity as the must-have exotic pet of the season (Queen Elizabeth I of England supposedly kept one). How they earned the name guinea pig is also in doubt. Guinea may be a corruption of the South American colony of Guiana, or it may refer to Guinea, the African country that cuy would have passed through on their voyage to Europe. Their squeals probably account for the latter half of their name. Cuy are practical animals to raise and have adapted well over the centuries to survive in environments ranging from the high Andean plains to the barren coastal deserts. Many Andean households today raise cuy as part of their animal stock and you’ll often see them scampering around the kitchen in true free-range style. Cuy are the ideal livestock alternative: they’re high in protein, feed on kitchen scraps, breed profusely and require much less room and maintenance than traditional domesticated animals. Cuy is seen as a true delicacy, so much so that in many indigenous interpretations of The Last Supper, Jesus and his disciples are sitting down to a hearty final feast of roast cuy. An integral part of Andean culture, even beyond the kitchen table, cuy are also used by curanderos (healers) in ceremonial healing rituals. Cuy can be passed over a patient’s body and used to sense out a source of illness and cuy meat is sometimes ingested in place of hallucinogenic plants during shamanistic ceremonies. If you can overcome your sentimental inhibitions, sample this furry treat. The rich flavors are a cross between rabbit and quail, and correctly prepared cuy can be an exceptional feast with thousands of years of history. with soft linens and king-sized beds. The onsite spa helps hikers work out the aches and kinks. Be aware that checkout is at 9am. Hostal Pensión Alemana HOTEL $$ (Map p198; %22-6861; www.cuzco-stay.de; Tandapata 260; s/d/tr incl breakfast S154/184/232; iW) Attentive and lovely, this polished Swiss-German lodge wouldn’t look out of place in the Alps. Nice touches include air purifiers and complimentary tea and fruit. Couples should note there are very few matrimonial beds. Enjoy the tiled garden – rare in Cuzco – and the terraces with sweeping views. Madre Tierra B&B $$ (Map p198; %24-8452; www.hostalmadretierra. com; Atocsaycuchi 647; d/tr S130/207; iW) Warm and super cozy, with plenty of B&Bstyle luxury comfort touches, Madre Tierra is a vine-entwined, slightly claustrophobic little jewel box. Rooms have skylights and funky dimensions. Good value for money. Amaru Hostal HOTEL $$ (Map p198; %22-5933; www.cusco.net/amaru; Cuesta San Blas 541; s/d/tr incl breakfast S105/135/189; iW) In a characterful old building in a prime location, Amaru is deservedly popular. Flowerpots sit outside well-kept rooms with styles that are a little dated. Some feature rocking chairs from which to admire the rooftop view. Rooms in the outer courtyard are noisy, and those at the back are newest. Hostal Marani HOTEL $$ (Map p198; %24-9462; www.hostalmarani. com; Carmen Alto 194; s/d/tr incl breakfast S109/173/227; W) Recommended, this airy
oasis is friendly and lovely. The Spanish-tile courtyard is surrounded by modest rooms that vary in size and shape. A few upstairs have vaulted ceilings, skylights and city views. Tika Wasi HOTEL $$ (Map p198; %23-1609; www.tikawasi.com; Tandapata 491; s/d/tr incl breakfast S89/122/155, superior s/d/tr S89/166/199; W) Behind a tall wall, this modern inn offers a personable option. Rooms are bright and airy, overlooking small, sunny decks to hang out on. Breakfast is buffet. Non-nationals should be sure to get the tax subtracted from the room price. Samay Wasi HOSTEL $ (Map p198; %25-3108; www.samaywasiperu.com; Atocsaycuchi 416; dm S30, s/d/tr incl breakfast S64/68/90; iW) A friendly, rambling hostel clinging precariously to the hillside, hidden up a flight of stairs teetering way above town. There’s a proper kitchen and shipshape rooms. Some are a bit musty so ask to see a few. With major city views. Accepts credit cards. Hospedaje el Artesano » de San Blas GUESTHOUSE $ (Map p198; %26-3968; hospedajeartesano790@ hotmail.com; Suytuccato 790; s/d S30/50; W) If you’re wondering why it’s such a deal, just try walking here with a full pack. Still, this peaceful and falling-down-charming colonial house has large rooms and a sunny patio with wi-fi reception. Kitchen available. Hostal Rumi Punku HOTEL $$$ (Map p198; %22-1102; www.rumipunku.com; Choquechaca 339; s/d incl breakfast S223/279; iW) Recognizable by the monumental Inca stonework around the entrance, Rumi Punku (Stone Door) is a stylish complex of old colonial houses, gardens and terraces. The rooftop terraces and other outdoor areas are utterly charming. Rooms ooze comfort and class, with central heating, wooden floors and European bedding. It’s probably not worth the upgrade to a superior room unless you want a bigger bed. Sauna and Jacuzzi are available for a minimal charge. Casona Les Pleiades B&B $$ (Map p198; %50-6430; www.casona-pleiades.com; Tandapata 116; d/tr incl breakfast S165/210; iW) A pleasant French-run B&B with a sunny courtyard featuring fresh flowers and balcony seating. The buffet breakfast is served in cozy booths. Heaters and lockboxes are supplied in rooms. Casa San Blas BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (%23-7900; www.casasanblas.com; Tocuyeros 566; s/d/ste incl breakfast S330/360/528; iW) Down a short passageway, this revamped colonial features smart, spare rooms with nice bedding, hardwood floors and Andean textiles. It has a cozy feel, though service is somewhat impersonal. Casa de Campo Hostal HOTEL $$ (Map p198; %24-4404; www.hotelcasadecam po.com; Tandapata 298; s/d/tr incl breakfast S119/145/172; iW) The steep climb here (and to your room) might leave you on your knees, but the views astound. With a warm and friendly vibe, this hillside inn is almost perfect but installations are aging. Some rooms don’t even have working electrical outlets (and most have just one), so check before settling in. Breakfast includes a sprawling buffet that includes fresh fruit and cereal. Heaters cost extra. Pisko & Soul HOSTEL $ (Map p198; %22-1998; info@piskoandsoul.com; Carmen Alto 294; dm/d incl breakfast S27/108; iW) This Peruvian hostel goes for the Spanish language school formula, with free lessons, evening events and barbecues. Small dorms have snug down covers but the bathrooms could use some bleach. Hospedaje Familiar Kuntur Wasi HOTEL $ (Map p198; %22-7570; Tandapata 352A; r per person with/without bathroom S60/35) Quiet and economical, this simple hotel features shipshape rooms and free buffet breakfast. Interior rooms lack natural light, and there have been mixed reviews about the management, but it’s a hard bargain to beat. Los Apus Hotel & Mirador HOTEL $$$ (Map p198; %26-4243; www.losapushotel.com; Atocsaycuchi 515; s/d incl breakfast S260/315; aiW) With understated class, this longtime Swiss-run hotel features central heating, large bedrooms with down duvets and colonial cuzqueño-style art. It may seem overpriced, but you are also paying for the high-tech alarm system and an emergency water supply. A wheelchairaccessible room for travelers with disabilities is available. Eureka Hostal HOTEL $$ (Map p198; %23-3505; www.peru-eureka.com; Chihuampata 591; s/d/tr S198/231/297; iW) A 219 Cuzco & the Sacred Valley S C L u E zC E P O I N G
Page 1 and 2: Peru Cuzco & the Sacred Valley (Cha
Page 3 and 4: 193 Regional Cuisine Sunday lunch w
Page 5 and 6: premier South American destination,
Page 7 and 8: works from the escuela cuzqueña (C
Page 9 and 10: 199 E F 6666 G 6 #e 0 0 0.1 miles 2
Page 11 and 12: dramatically curated pre-Columbian
Page 13 and 14: colonial paintings of the escuela c
Page 15 and 16: 66 Plazoleta Limacpampa Av Tullumay
Page 17 and 18: crowded, multilingual affairs. Due
Page 19 and 20: in the rainforest. Tapirs, capybara
Page 21 and 22: START PLAZA DE 211 ARMAS FINISH SAC
Page 23 and 24: 213 YOUR SACRED VISION FOR SALE Sha
Page 25 and 26: Breakfast is not included. The othe
Page 27: alconies with corner views of the p
Page 31 and 32: uns an onsite girls foundation. Hug
Page 33 and 34: to pick at, and there’s a whole s
Page 35 and 36: 225 THE LUCKY TOAD Ever wondered wh
Page 37 and 38: Artesenal Cuzco (Map p204; cnr Avs
Page 39 and 40: Interbank (Map p198; Av El Sol 380;
Page 41 and 42: Transportes Gallito de las Rocas (%
Page 43 and 44: 233 MORE RUINS TO EXPLORE Take any
Page 45 and 46: served temples. A path leads up the
Page 47 and 48: 237 COMMUNITY TOURISM IN THE SACRED
Page 49 and 50: oLas Chullpas CABINS $$ (%20-1568;
Page 51 and 52: some wonderful mountain views and a
Page 53 and 54: 243 Ollantaytambo A B C 0 100 m #e
Page 55 and 56: eggs and fresh juice is served in O
Page 57 and 58: area uphill of the souvenir market;
Page 59 and 60: and-off and rooms are a little cram
Page 61 and 62: READ UP ON THE RUINS If you are won
Page 63 and 64: Wayna Wayna Picchu Picchu This 2720
Page 65 and 66: end over to get by. Part way up Way
Page 67 and 68: views of the snowcapped Nevado Ver
Page 69 and 70: Inca gate of Rumicolca is built on
Page 71 and 72: 261 YELLOW RIVER LODGE A cozy, lazy
Page 73 and 74: 263 BE SAFE IN THE JUNGLE In recent
Page 75 and 76: le across huge herds of alpacas and
Page 77 and 78: Hotel Turistas HISTORIC HOTEL $$ (%

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