peru-8-cuzco-sacred-valley

Inca gate of Rumicolca is built on Wari foundations.
The cruder Wari stonework contrasts
with the Inca blocks. It’s interesting to
see indigenous people working with the mud
that surrounds the area’s swampy lakes – the
manufacture of adobe (mud bricks) is one of
the main industries of this area.
Urcos-bound buses from Cuzco pass by
both sites.
Andahuaylillas
%084 / POP 840 / ELEV 3123M
Don’t confuse this place with Andahuaylas,
west of Cuzco. Andahuaylillas is more than
45km southeast of Cuzco, about 7km before
the road splits at Urcos. This pretty Andean
village is most famous for its lavishly decorated
Iglesia de San Pedro (admission S10;
h7am-5:30pm), which is almost oppressive
in its baroque embellishments. The church
dates from the 17th century and houses
many carvings and paintings, including a
canvas of the Immaculate Conception attributed
to Esteban Murillo. There are reportedly
many gold and silver treasures locked in
the church, and the villagers are all involved
in taking turns guarding it 24 hours a day. Is
the rumor true or not? All we can tell you is
that the guards take their job very seriously.
Near the church are the shop of the
Q’ewar Project, a women’s cooperative that
makes distinctive dolls clad in traditional
costumes, and the eclectic Museo Ritos
Andinos (admission by donation; h7am-6pm),
whose somewhat random displays include a
mummified child and an impressive number
of deformed craniums.
To reach Andahuaylillas (S7, one hour),
take any Urcos-bound bus from the terminal
just off Av de la Cultura in Cuzco.
Raqchi
%084 / POP 320 / ELEV 3480M
The little village of Raqchi, 125km southeast
of Cuzco, is wrapped around an Inca ruin
(admission S10) that looks from the road like
a strange alien aqueduct. These are the remains
of the Temple of Viracocha, which
was once one of the holiest shrines in the
Inca empire. Twenty-two columns made
of stone blocks helped support the largestknown
Inca roof; most were destroyed
by the Spanish, but their foundations are
clearly seen. The remains of many houses
and storage buildings are also visible, and
reconstruction is an ongoing process.
The people of Raqchi are charming and
environmentally conscious, working periodically
to eradicate litter left by visitors.
And they are famous potters – many of the
ceramics on sale in the markets of Pisac and
Chinchero come from here.
You can experience life in Raqchi by
organizing a homestay (%984-82-0598,
984-67-9466; raqchitours55@hotmail.com; package
per person S93). Thirteen families offer
accommodation in basic but comfortable
guestrooms, with private bathrooms and
showers. The point of contact is Humberto
Rodriguez. Packages include all meals, a
night-time fiesta and a highly recommended
day of guided activities. These include a
visit to the ruins (admission not included), a
heart-pumping hike up to the local mirador
(lookout) and a ceramics workshop.
On the third Sunday in June, Raqchi is
the site of a colorful fiesta with much traditional
music and dancing.
Raqchi to Abra La Raya
About 25km past Raqchi is bustling Sicuani,
a market town of 12,000 people, halfway
from Cuzco to Puno. There’s no real reason
to stop here except to break the journey. A
few economical places to stay are located
near the bus terminal.
Twenty minutes past Sicuani – just before
Abra la Raya, the high pass that marks
the boundary between the Cuzco and Puno
departments – are the Aguas Calientes de
Marangani (admission S5; hdaylight hr). This
complex of five fabulously hot thermal pools
is linked by rustic bridges over unfenced,
boiling tributaries. Quite a sight, it isn’t odd
to see locals washing themselves, their kids
and their clothes in the pools. Consider it an
accessible, off-the-beaten-track experience.
You can count on local transport to hop
between Cuzco, Andahuaylillas, Raqchi,
Sicuani and the baths from early morning
until at least 3pm. For points of interest
south of here, see p170.
CUZCO TO THE JUNGLE
There are three overland routes from Cuzco
to the jungle. The least-developed, cheapest
and quickest goes northwest from Ollantaytambo
over the Abra Málaga Pass, to
259
Cuzco & the Sacred Valley C T A H N u E zC DA H O H I K UAY TO E T L H I L E L A J U S N G L E