peru-8-cuzco-sacred-valley

some wonderful mountain views and a
colorful Sunday market. On a high plain
with sweeping views to snow-laden peaks,
it’s quite beautiful. Since it is very high,
it’s unwise to spend the night until you’re
somewhat acclimated. Entry to the historic
precinct, where the ruins, the church and
the museum are all found, requires a boleto
turístico.
1 Sights & Activities
Iglesia Colonial de Chinchero
CHURCH
(h8am-5:30pm; admission with boleto turístico)
Among the most beautiful churches in the
valley, this colonial church is built on Inca
foundations. The interior, decked out in merry
floral and religious designs, is well worth
seeing.
Mercado de Chinchero
MARKET
The Chinchero market, held on Tuesday,
Thursday and especially Sunday, is less touristy
than its counterpart in Pisac and well
worth a special trip. On Sunday, traditionally
dressed locals descend from the hills for
the produce market, where the ancient practice
of trueco (bartering) still takes place;
this is a rare opportunity to observe genuine
bartering.
Wayllabamba
HIKING
On the opposite side of the valley, a clear
trail climbs upward before heading north
and down to the Río Urubamba Valley about
four hours away. At the river, the trail turns
left and continues to a bridge at Wayllabamba,
where you can cross. From here, the Sacred
Valley road will take you to Calca (turn
right, about 13km) or Urubamba (turn left,
about 9km). You can flag down any passing
bus until midafternoon, or continue walking
to Yucay, where the trail officially ends. In
Yucay you’ll find a colonial church, an Inca
ruin, and more than one charming accommodation
option.
Centro de Textiles »
Tradicionales
HANDICRAFTS
(Manzanares s/n) The best artisan workshop in
town, though they’re found on every street.
Ruinas Inca
RUINS
The most extensive ruins here consist of
terracing. If you start walking away from
the village through the terraces on the
right-hand side of the valley, you’ll also
find various rocks carved into seats and
staircases.
Museo del Sitio
MUSEUM
(%22-3345; admission S7; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun) A
small archaeological museum opposite the
church houses a collection heavy on broken
pots – not worth the extra admission.
4 Sleeping & Eating
Both lodgings feature good restaurants;
there’s little other selection in town.
La Casa de Barro INN $$
(%30-6031; www.lacasadebarro.com; cnr hwy &
Miraflores; s/d/tr incl breakfast S133/186/225) A
wonderful retreat for couples or families,
with curvy, rambling stairways and nooks,
an overgrown garden, and tasteful rooms
with snug quilts. The colorful adobe house
is architect-designed with Italian influence.
It is also well set up for children, with a playroom
and swings. They can arrange excursions
around the region. A set menu in the
restaurant is S50.
Hospedaje Mi Piuray GUESTHOUSE $
(%30-6029; www.hospedajemipiuraycusco.com;
Garcilaso 187; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast S40/70/
80/90) A welcoming family hostelry with
large, neat rooms with pastel accents and a
sunny courtyard. There’s also an onsite restaurant
and bar.
8 Getting There & Away
Combis and colectivos traveling between Cuzco
(S4/S6, one hour) and Urubamba (S3/S6, 30
minutes) stop on the corner of the highway and
Calle Manco Capac II; just flag down whatever
comes along. They will also drop you off at intermediate
points such as the turnoff to Maras.
Moray & Maras
The impressively deep amphitheater-like
terracing of Moray (admission S10; hdawn to
dusk), reached via the small town of Maras
(admission S5), is a fascinating spectacle.
Different levels of concentric terraces are
carved into a huge earthen bowl, each layer
of which has its own microclimate, according
to depth. Some theorize that the Incas
used the terraces as a kind of laboratory to
determine the optimal conditions for growing
crops of each species. There are three
bowls, one of which has been planted with
various crops as a kind of living museum.
Though refreshingly off the beaten path,
this site is not challenging to reach. Take any
transportation bound between Urubamba
and Cuzco via Chinchero and ask to be let
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Cuzco & the Sacred Valley T S M H I O G E R H AY S T AC S & R M E AC D A R T VA I A V S L I T L I E Y S