peru-8-cuzco-sacred-valley

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THE GUINEA PIG’S CULINARY RISE
Cuzco & the Sacred Valley S C L u E zC E P O I N G
Love it or loathe it, cuy, or guinea pig (or Cavia porcellus if you really must know), is an
Andean favorite that’s been part of the local culinary repertoire since pre-Inca times.
And before you dredge up childhood memories of cuddly mascots in protest, know that
these rascally rodents were gracing Andean dinner plates long before anyone in the
West considered them worthy pet material.
Pinpointing the gastronomic history of the cuy, a native of the New World, is harder
than trying to catch one with your bare hands. It’s believed that cuy may have been
domesticated as early as 7000 years ago in the mountains of southern Peru, where wild
populations of cuy still roam today. Direct evidence from Chavín de Huántar shows that
they were certainly cultivated across the Andes by 900 BC. Arrival of the Spanish in the
18th century led to the European debut of cuy, where they rode a wave of popularity as
the must-have exotic pet of the season (Queen Elizabeth I of England supposedly kept
one).
How they earned the name guinea pig is also in doubt. Guinea may be a corruption of
the South American colony of Guiana, or it may refer to Guinea, the African country that
cuy would have passed through on their voyage to Europe. Their squeals probably account
for the latter half of their name.
Cuy are practical animals to raise and have adapted well over the centuries to survive
in environments ranging from the high Andean plains to the barren coastal deserts.
Many Andean households today raise cuy as part of their animal stock and you’ll often
see them scampering around the kitchen in true free-range style. Cuy are the ideal
livestock alternative: they’re high in protein, feed on kitchen scraps, breed profusely and
require much less room and maintenance than traditional domesticated animals.
Cuy is seen as a true delicacy, so much so that in many indigenous interpretations of
The Last Supper, Jesus and his disciples are sitting down to a hearty final feast of roast
cuy.
An integral part of Andean culture, even beyond the kitchen table, cuy are also
used by curanderos (healers) in ceremonial healing rituals. Cuy can be passed over a
patient’s body and used to sense out a source of illness and cuy meat is sometimes
ingested in place of hallucinogenic plants during shamanistic ceremonies.
If you can overcome your sentimental inhibitions, sample this furry treat. The rich
flavors are a cross between rabbit and quail, and correctly prepared cuy can be an exceptional
feast with thousands of years of history.
with soft linens and king-sized beds. The
onsite spa helps hikers work out the aches
and kinks. Be aware that checkout is at 9am.
Hostal Pensión Alemana HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %22-6861; www.cuzco-stay.de; Tandapata
260; s/d/tr incl breakfast S154/184/232; iW)
Attentive and lovely, this polished Swiss-German
lodge wouldn’t look out of place in the
Alps. Nice touches include air purifiers and
complimentary tea and fruit. Couples should
note there are very few matrimonial beds.
Enjoy the tiled garden – rare in Cuzco – and
the terraces with sweeping views.
Madre Tierra B&B $$
(Map p198; %24-8452; www.hostalmadretierra.
com; Atocsaycuchi 647; d/tr S130/207; iW)
Warm and super cozy, with plenty of B&Bstyle
luxury comfort touches, Madre Tierra
is a vine-entwined, slightly claustrophobic
little jewel box. Rooms have skylights and
funky dimensions. Good value for money.
Amaru Hostal HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %22-5933; www.cusco.net/amaru;
Cuesta San Blas 541; s/d/tr incl breakfast
S105/135/189; iW) In a characterful old
building in a prime location, Amaru is deservedly
popular. Flowerpots sit outside
well-kept rooms with styles that are a little
dated. Some feature rocking chairs from
which to admire the rooftop view. Rooms in
the outer courtyard are noisy, and those at
the back are newest.
Hostal Marani HOTEL $$
(Map p198; %24-9462; www.hostalmarani.
com; Carmen Alto 194; s/d/tr incl breakfast
S109/173/227; W) Recommended, this airy