peru-8-cuzco-sacred-valley

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260 Cuzco & the Sacred Valley T C H u E zC H O I K TO E T I VO H E C J H U OT N G E L E the secondary jungle around Quillabamba and into little-visited Ivochote and Pongo de Mainique beyond. The other two routes are more popular but are rarely accessed by road. You can get to the area around Parque Nacional Manu through Paucartambo, Tres Cruces and Shintuya, or to Puerto Maldonado via Ocongate and Quince Mil. To get deep into these areas, most people go on organized tours which include light-plane flights in and out, or in some cases, 4WD road transport. Some of these roads are muddy, slow and dangerous. Think twice before deciding to travel overland, and don’t even contemplate it in the wettest months (January to April). An invaluable resource for independent travelers is the Peruvian Jungle Information Packet, sold by the South American Explorers Club (%084-24-5484; www.saexplor ers.org; Atocsaycuchi 670, Cuzco; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat). Cuzco to Ivochote Soon after Ollantaytambo, the road leaves the narrowing Sacred Valley and climbs steeply over the 4350m Abra Málaga. From here it’s a dizzying, scenic, mostly unpaved descent straight into Amazonia. Dusty Santa María has bus company offices and a couple of very basic hospedajes and restaurants. It marks the junction where you turn off for Santa Teresa and the backdoor route to Machu Picchu, or continue down to Quillabamba. SANTA TERESA %084 / POP 460 / ELEV 1900M The makeshift feel of Santa Teresa persists even some years after the flooding that took place in 2010, 1998 and a decade before. In its tiny center, most buildings are prefabricated emergency-relief shells and, strangely, the most permanent construction is the puzzling Plaza de Armas statue. Yet as more and more backpackers come seeking a cheaper access point to Machu Picchu, services are slowly starting to grow. The real attractions are a few kilometers outside town – the Cocalmayo hot springs and the Cola de Mono zipline are both worth the time and effort required to get to them. 1 Sights & Activities For information on hiking the alternate route to Machu Picchu, see p38. Cola de Mono ADVENTURE SPORTS (%79-2413, 959-743-060; www.canopy<strong>peru</strong>.com; zipline US$60) South America’s highest zipline is a must for thrill seekers. A total of 2500m of cables with six separate sections whiz high above the spectacular scenery of the Sacsara Valley. Allow two hours. The owners of Cola de Mono, river guides from way back, also run rafting on the spectacular, and so far little-exploited, Santa Teresa river (see p208 for more information) and camping on their extensive grounds. To get there, it’s a pleasant 2km (halfhour) stroll east – just follow the road out of town or take a taxi (S10). Llactapata HIKING You can hike to the hydroelectric station via Llactapata, a six-hour walk up and over a hill on the well-marked Inca Trail, affording views of Machu Picchu and access to a halfcleared ruin. The trail is well-marked and can be done without a guide, though they are helpful to indicate ruins, as well as the flora and fauna. Start early as it gets hot on the trail. Hire a taxi (S35, 30 minutes) to drop you off at the start in Lucmabamba. You can take a colectivo back from the Hydroelectrica, or continue on to Machu Picchu. Baños Termales Cocalmayo HOT SPRINGS (admission S5; h24 hr) These stunningly landscaped, council-owned natural hot springs are truly a world-class attraction. Pools washed out in the river flooding of 2010 have been rebuilt, though camping areas have not. As if huge, warm pools and a natural shower straight out of a jungle fantasy weren’t enough, you can buy beer and snacks. It’s 4km from town. You can reliably catch a colectivo from Santa Teresa to Cocalmayo at around 3pm, when vehicles head down to collect Inca Jungle Trail walkers arriving from Santa María. Otherwise, you may have to brave the unshaded, dusty walk (with cars driving too fast) or pay a taxi around S36 round-trip. Tour de Cafe TOUR (per person S25) Run by Eco Quechua, this 2½-hour tour visits a family coffee farm steeped in local tradition (see the cuys being raised in the kitchen!). You can also pick tropical fruit and see a fish farm in action. Not a modern operation, this is old-style cultivation in transition, in the process of introducing new techniques to improve pro-
261 YELLOW RIVER LODGE A cozy, lazy option on the alternative route to Machu Picchu, this welcoming family homestay (%63-0209; www.quellomayo.com; r per person with half-board S60, camping per person S10) is an organic farm harvesting Arabica bean coffee, chocolate and tropical fruit. Simple rooms have comfortable beds and colorful walls, but you are likely to spend most of your time exploring the lush surroundings. Home cooked meals (S15 to S20) are available at the restaurant. If you want to learn more about coffee, there are roasting workshops onsite. The riverside campsite includes a shower, grill and adobe oven. It’s located in Quellomayo, 25 minutes outside of Santa María on the way to Santa Teresa. To get there, take a bus from Cuzco to Santa María and grab a taxi (S25 to S50) from there or trek via an old Inca trail – the website has details. ductivity. It’s an interesting visit and 50% of visitor fees goes to help local farmers. 4 Sleeping & Eating A handful of hospedajes in the center offers bare-bones accommodation. At the time of research, there were no recommendable restaurants in town. Hot meals are available at the market and the rotisserie chicken restaurants on the plaza – choose based on cleanliness. oEco Quechua LODGE $ (%63-0877, 984-756-855; www.ecoquechua.com; Sauce Pampa; per person with half-board S75, camping per tent S12) Run by Juan Carlos and Janet, a wonderful and energetic young couple, this funky thatched lodge lets you sample jungle living right outside of Santa Teresa. The open-air living room is cloaked in thick vegetation. Rooms feature mosquito nets, but it’s still a good idea to use repellant. With outdoor stall bathrooms, it’s a little rustic, but undoubtedly the most ambient spot in Santa Teresa and a fun place for groups to congregate. The owner is also a guide knowledgeable about local hikes and tours. At the time of research, the shorter route from town was under reparation and it was a S30 taxi ride. Albergue Municipal HOSTEL $ (%984-145-049; dm/d S20/60) Next to the football field, this gated circular compound is one of the best options in town. It has a manicured lawn and cool, spacious rooms. Doubles feature tile floors and mini-fridges. The one dorm holds up to 11 people. Book ahead via the municipality. If the gate is closed, the caretaker may be out. Hotel El Sol HOTEL $ (%63-7158; Av Calixto Sanchez G-6; s/d S40/60) This partially finished cement multistory is one of the best deals in town, though prices may go up as the building does! Friendly, it features nice, clean rooms with bright sheet sets, hot water bathrooms and cable TV. 8 Information There are no banks or ATMs in Santa Teresa – you must bring all the cash you need. You may be able to change dollars at an extremely unfavorable rate. Internet access is poor, but available in a few cafes. Cusco Medical Assistance in Carrión provides 24-hour medical attention. 8 Getting There & Away To get to Santa Teresa from Cuzco, take a bus headed for Quillabamba from the Santiago terminal, get off in Santa María, and catch a local combi or colectivo (S10, one hour) to Santa Teresa. These shared vans and wagons take on the winding, dirt road to Santa Teresa like Formula One competitors – try to chose one who seems more conservative, it’s a lot to stomach. To get to Machu Picchu, train tickets on this route are sold only at the Peru Rail ticket office. Daily trains (one-way/return US$18/30) leave from the hydroelectric station, about 8km from Santa Teresa, at 7:54am, 3pm, and 4:35pm. Be at the bus terminal an hour prior to your train to catch a combi (S3, 25 minutes). The 13km train ride to Aguas Calientes takes 45 minutes. Some choose to walk by the railway tracks instead, an outstandingly cheap way to get to Machu Picchu; it takes around four very dusty and sweaty hours. You can also do this route as part of one of the guided multisport tours on offer (see p38). Combis going directly to Quillabamba (S10, two hours) depart from Santa María’s Plaza de Armas every 15 minutes. Colectivos to Santa María leave often from the bus terminal. From Cuzco & the Sacred Valley T C H u E zC H O I K TO E T I VO H E C J H U OT N G E L E
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