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216<br />

Cuzco & the Sacred Valley S C L u E zC E P O I N G<br />

The two newer doubles on the top floor (311<br />

and 312) are a good value.<br />

Hostal Rojas GUESTHOUSE $$<br />

(%22-8184; Tigre 129; s/d incl breakfast S60/100;<br />

iW) Very friendly, clean and stuffed with<br />

bric-a-brac, this family-run hostel is notably<br />

cheap for solo travelers. A three-minute<br />

walk from the Plaza de Armas.<br />

Loreto Boutique Hotel HOTEL $$<br />

(Map p198; %22-6352; www.loretoboutique<br />

hotel.com; Loreto 115; s/d/tr incl breakfast<br />

S199/252/305) Maybe you’re paying for the<br />

plaza location, since ‘boutique’ is an overstatement<br />

here. Dimly-lit in daytime, Loreto<br />

has well-heeled, snug rooms bathed in neutrals.<br />

The best feature are the four rooms<br />

with surviving Inca walls.<br />

El Balcón Hostal HOTEL $$<br />

(%23-6738; www.balconcusco.com; Tambo de<br />

Montero 222; s/d/tr incl breakfast S160/220/270;<br />

iW) This renovated building dating from<br />

1630 has just 16 basic rooms, all with balconies,<br />

phone and TV. The garden blooms with<br />

fuchsias and offers great views over Cuzco.<br />

There’s also a sauna.<br />

Hotel los Marqueses HOTEL $$<br />

(Map p198; %26-4249; www.hotelmarqueses.<br />

com; Calle Garcilaso 256; s/d/tr incl breakfast<br />

from S196/252/308; W) Romance pervades<br />

this colonial villa, built in the 16th century<br />

by Spanish conquistadors. Classic features<br />

include escuela cuzqueña paintings, courtyard<br />

fountains and balconies looking out on<br />

the cathedral on the Plaza de Armas. Rooms<br />

are large and airy, with some brass beds and<br />

carved wooden doors. Some have split-level<br />

sleeping areas and skylights. Most guests<br />

come on package tours. Wi-fi is available<br />

only on the patio.<br />

Andenes de Saphi HOTEL $$<br />

(Map p198; %22-7561; www.andenesdesaphi.com;<br />

Saphi 848; s/d/tr S146/164/190; W) At the far<br />

end of Saphi, where the city starts to become<br />

more rural, this dependable, modern hotel<br />

has a rustic wooden construction with skylights<br />

and murals in every room.<br />

Hotel Royal Inca I HOTEL $$$<br />

(Map p198; %23-1067; www.royalinkahotel.com;<br />

Plaza Regocijo 299; s/d incl breakfast S205/269;<br />

iW) Quiet as a mausoleum, this central<br />

hotel features good-quality rooms. Those<br />

in the colonial building are a bit dated but<br />

comfortable and luxurious, while the modern<br />

ones are big, bright and cheery. The oddest<br />

feature might be the mix of kitsch in the<br />

public areas, including gold masks and an<br />

oversized wall mural with an indigenous nature<br />

scene bordering on soft porn.<br />

Renacimiento APARTMENT $$<br />

(%22-1596; www.cuscoapart.com; Ceniza 331;<br />

s/d S100/160; W) An unsigned treasure, this<br />

colonial mansion has been converted into 12<br />

stylish one- and two-bedroom apartments<br />

sleeping one to six people, each unique in<br />

design and furnishing. Cozy and comfortable,<br />

it’s fabulous for families.<br />

Mama Simona HOSTEL $<br />

(%26-0408; www.mamasimona.com; Calle Ceniza<br />

364; dm S25-33; iW) A new player in town,<br />

this hostel is styled for hipsters, with a<br />

crushed velvet sofa and oddball decor. Beds<br />

have nice down covers and the shared kitchen<br />

with picnic tables is undoubtedly cute,<br />

but we wish it were a little cleaner. It’s two<br />

blocks northeast of Plaza San Francisco.<br />

Hospedaje Familiar »<br />

Munay Wasi GUESTHOUSE $<br />

(Map p198; %22-3661; Huaynapata 253; s/d/tr/q<br />

S40/50/90/100; i) This friendly, homey<br />

family inn is housed in a ramshackle adobe<br />

building without a single right angle to its<br />

name. Room 201, which has huge windows,<br />

minibalconies and a magic view of downtown<br />

Cuzco, is understandably popular with<br />

families. The reception is on the second<br />

floor of the interior courtyard.<br />

Loki Hostel HOSTEL $<br />

(%24-3705; www.lokihostel.com; Cuesta Santa Ana<br />

601; dm S23-30, d/tr incl breakfast S85/110; iW)<br />

This 450-year-old national monument is<br />

a great place to eat, drink and be merry –<br />

sleeping, not so much. If it feels like a village,<br />

that’s because it practically is: its capacity<br />

of 280 guests is among Cuzco’s highest.<br />

On weekends the on-site bar features local<br />

bands and DJs.<br />

WalkOn Inn HOSTEL $<br />

(Map p198; %23-5065; www.walkoninn.com; Suecia<br />

504; dm/s/d S25/65/75; iW) A five-minute<br />

puff up from the Plaza de Armas, this quieter<br />

hostel has views but rather indifferent<br />

service. Breakfast is not included.<br />

Del Prado Inn HOTEL $$$<br />

(Map p198; %22-442; www.delpradoinn.com; Suecia<br />

310; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast S225/390/435;<br />

iW) Del Prado is a solid option, with efficient<br />

staff and just over a dozen snug<br />

rooms reached by elevator. Some have tiny

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