peru-8-cuzco-sacred-valley

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BE SAFE IN THE JUNGLE
In recent times, the increased activity of narcotraffickers and Shining Path guerillas in
specific jungle areas may alter advisable routes for travel and trekking. At the time of
writing, the government was increasing military presence in these areas for security.
However, it is always wise to consult with knowledgeable guides and tour operators, or
an unaffiliated organization like South American Explorers (p260), before heading out. It
is important to use good, responsible local guides and never go on your own. Currently,
it is unadvisable to visit Vilcabamba, Ivochote, Kiteni and beyond, but we have included
information on these areas as the situation is subject to change.
stop at Ollantaytambo and Urubamba en route,
but charge full fare wherever you get off.
Minivans leave from Quillabamba’s market
area for Kiteni (three to six hours) and Ivochote
(six to eight hours), further into the jungle.
8 Getting Around
The basic mototaxi fare around town is S2.
HUANCACALLE
%084 / POP 300 / ELEV 3200M
Peaceful, pretty Huancacalle is best known
as the jumping-off point for treks to Vilcabamba,
but many more hikes from three
to 10 days long are possible from here,
including to Puncuyo, Inca Tambo, Choquequirau
and Machu Picchu. The town’s
biggest building is Hostal Manco Sixpac
(%84-6006, 84-005, relative in Cuzco 974-922-
484; per person without bathroom S20), run by
the Cobos family of local guides. It’s the only
lodging with hot water. You can organize
mules and guides here.
Manco Inca’s huge palace fortress of
Vitcos (also known as Rosaspata) is an
hour’s walk up the hill, and from there you
can continue to the amazing, sacred white
rock of Yurac Rumi. The whole easy-to-follow
circuit, which starts just over the bridge
at the end of the road, takes a leisurely three
hours, including plenty of time for photos
and admiration of both scenery and ruins.
VILCABAMBA
The real ‘lost city of the Incas,’ Vilcabamba –
also known as Espíritu Pampa – is what Hiram
Bingham was looking for when he stumbled
on Machu Picchu. The beleaguered Manco
Inca and his followers fled to this jungle
retreat after being defeated by the Spaniards
at Ollantaytambo in 1536. The long,
low-altitude trek, which takes four to nine
days, is very rugged, with many steep ascents
and descents before reaching Vilcabamba,
1000m above sea level. You can start at either
Huancacalle or Kiteni. This area may be
insecure, see the boxed text.
IVOCHOTE & BEYOND
At the time of writing, this area was considered
unsafe for travelers, given activity of
guerilla groups and narcotraffickers. Since
the government has engaged in an active
campaign to curb illicit activity, this may
change by the time you read this. Regardless,
it is wise to ask outfitters knowledgeable
about the area about current conditions
before traveling.
A long eight-hour-plus bus journey from
Quillabamba takes you through the oil
town of Kiteni and on to the more remote
Ivochote, a small jungle village with a few
basic accommodations. This base connects
further into Amazonia by river.
The first major landmark past Ivochote is
the Pongo de Mainique, a steep-walled canyon
carved by cascading waterfalls on the
lower Río Urubamba, which marks the border
between Amazonia’s high and lowland
cloud forest. Prolific bird life here includes
military macaws and quetzals; there are
also spider monkeys and many orchid varieties.
Between June and November, boats can
be found in Ivochote to take you there and
back – the trip takes the best part of a day.
You’ll pay anything from S60 to S450 per
person; group size is a big factor.
Past the Pongo, at the indigenous Matsiguenka
(or Machigengua) community of
Timpía, you can find local guides and transport
for Santuario Nacional Megantoni. Accommodation
is available at Sabeti Lodge
(%84-81-2555, 84-81-3885; www.sabetilodge.com;
s/d with full board US$105/160), owned by the
community. There’s fishing and wildlife
watching. You can also camp on the riverside.
Given that instructions are needed to
arrive, it’s best to reserve ahead.
Cuzco & the Sacred Valley T C H u E zC H O I K TO E T I VO H E C J H U OT N G E L E