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MORE RUINS TO EXPLORE
Take any Pisac-bound transportation to reach these ruins, located just outside of Cuzco.
Entry is included in the boleto turístico or the partial boleto; open daily 7am to 6pm.
Q’enqo
The name of this small but fascinating ruin means ‘zigzag.’ A large limestone rock, it’s
riddled with niches, steps and extraordinary symbolic carvings, including the zigzagging
channels that probably gave the site its name. Scramble up to the top to find a flat
surface used for ceremonies: look carefully to see laboriously etched representations of
a puma, a condor and a llama. Back below, you can explore a mysterious subterranean
cave with altars hewn into the rock. Q’enqo is about 4km northeast of Cuzco, on the left
of the road as you descend from Tambomachay.
Pukapukara
Just across the main road from Tambomachay, this commanding structure looks down
on the Cuzco valley. In some lights the rock looks pink, and the name literally means
‘Red Fort,’ though it is more likely to have been a hunting lodge, a guard post and a
stopping point for travelers. It is composed of several lower residential chambers, storerooms
and an upper esplanade with panoramic views.
Tambomachay
In a sheltered spot about 300m from the main road, this site consists of a beautifully
wrought ceremonial stone bath channeling crystalline spring water through fountains
that still function today. It is thus popularly known as El Baño del Inca (The Bath of the
Inca), and theories connect the site to an Inca water cult. It’s 8km northeast of Cuzco.
fensive mechanism that forced attackers to
expose their flanks when attacking.
Opposite is the hill called Rodadero, with
retaining walls, polished rocks and a finely
carved series of stone benches known as
the Inca’s Throne. Three towers once stood
above these walls. Only the foundations remain,
but the 22m diameter of the largest,
Muyuc Marca, gives an indication of how big
they must have been. With its perfectly fitted
stone conduits, this tower was probably
used as a huge water tank for the garrison.
Other buildings within the ramparts provided
food and shelter for an estimated 5000
warriors. Most of these structures were torn
down by the Spaniards and later inhabitants
of Cuzco.
Between the zigzag ramparts and the
hill lies a large, flat parade ground that is
used for the colorful tourist spectacle of Inti
Raymi, held every June 24.
To walk up to the site from the Plaza de
Armas takes 30 to 50 minutes, so make sure
you’re acclimatized before attempting it.
Arriving at dawn will let you have the site
almost to yourself, though solo travelers
shouldn’t come alone at this time of day.
Another option is to take a taxi tour
which also includes Q’enko, Pukapukara
and Tambomachay (S55).
THE SACRED VALLEY
Tucked under the tawny skirts of formidable
foothills, the beautiful Río Urubamba Valley,
known as El Valle Sagrado (The Sacred
Valley), is about 15km north of Cuzco as the
condor flies, via a narrow road of hairpin
turns. Long the home of attractive colonial
towns and isolated weaving villages, in recent
years it has become a destination in its
own right. Star attractions are the markets
and the lofty Inca citadels of Pisac and Ollantaytambo,
but the valley is also packed
with other Inca sites. Trekking routes are
deservedly gaining in popularity. Adrenaline
activities range from rafting to rock climbing.
Most activities can be organized in Cuzco
or at some hotels in Urubamba.
A multitude of travel agencies in Cuzco
offer whirlwind tours of the Sacred Valley,
stopping at markets and the most significant
archaeological sites. If you have a
day or two to spare, spend it exploring this
peaceful, fetching corner of the Andes at
Cuzco & the Sacred Valley 8 T H E S AC R E D VA L L E Y