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225<br />

THE LUCKY TOAD<br />

Ever wondered what cuzqueños do to relax instead of whiling away the hours over a<br />

game of darts or pool in the local bar? Well, next time you’re in a picantería (local restaurant)<br />

or quinta (house serving typical Andean food), look out for a strange metal<br />

sapo (frog or toad) mounted on a large box and surrounded by various holes and slots.<br />

Men will often spend the whole afternoon drinking chicha (fermented corn beer) and<br />

beer while competing at this old test of skill in which players toss metal disks as close to<br />

the toad as possible. Top points are scored for landing one smack in the mouth. Legend<br />

has it that the game originated with Inca royals, who used to toss gold coins into Lake<br />

Titicaca in the hopes of attracting a sapo, believed to possess magical healing powers<br />

and to have the ability to grant wishes.<br />

ficial hipster lounge and late-night backup:<br />

when everything else has closed and the<br />

sun has come up, knock on the door. Happy<br />

hours are 7:30pm to 9:30pm and 11pm to<br />

11:30pm.<br />

Fallen Angel<br />

COCKTAIL BAR<br />

(Map p198; %25-8184; Plazoleta Nazarenas 221;<br />

h6pm-late) This ultrafunky lounge redefines<br />

kitsch with glitter balls, fake fur and even<br />

bathtub-cum-aquarium tables complete<br />

with live goldfish. It isn’t cheap, but the decor<br />

really is worth seeing and the occasional<br />

theme parties held here are legendary.<br />

Norton Rats<br />

PUB<br />

(Map p198; cnr Santa Catalina Angosta & Plaza de<br />

Armas, 2nd fl; h7am-late) Run by a motorcycle<br />

enthusiast, this unassuming expat-style bar<br />

overlooks the Plaza de Armas. It’s a boon for<br />

people watching, if you can get a balcony<br />

seat. Though known for delicious 200g burgers,<br />

it’s also got TVs, darts and billiards to<br />

help you work up a thirst. Avoid the burritos.<br />

Happy hour is 7pm to 9pm.<br />

Cross Keys<br />

PUB<br />

(Map p198; Triunfo 350; h10am-late; W) If you<br />

are thirsty for an Old Speckled Hen, visit the<br />

most established expat and traveler watering<br />

hole in town. This typical British pub has<br />

all the trappings, with leather barstools and<br />

dark wood. As well as a long list of imported<br />

beer, it offers good-value comfort food.<br />

The Frogs<br />

PUB<br />

(Map p198; Huarancalqui 185) Gloriously glamorous<br />

and run by high-profile hipsters, the<br />

Frogs offers a bit of everything. There’s cafe<br />

service from breakfast until 11pm, nightly<br />

live music (ranging from acoustic to reggae<br />

and funk), billiards, beanbags, fairy lights<br />

and hookah pipes. Open early till late.<br />

Piscuo<br />

COCKTAIL BAR<br />

(Map p198; %231-782; Portal Belén 115, second<br />

fl) This low-lit, minimalist bar is in with<br />

local professionals who sit at the wraparound<br />

bar ordering the rainbow selection of<br />

mixed drinks. With live bands on Friday and<br />

Saturday.<br />

Paddy Flaherty’s<br />

PUB<br />

(Map p198; %24-7719; Triunfo 124; h11am-late)<br />

This cramped little Irish pub is packed with<br />

random memorabilia, TVs, a working train<br />

set and homesick European travelers eating<br />

excellent-value hot sandwiches. Happy<br />

hours are from 7pm to 8pm and 10pm to<br />

10:30pm.<br />

3 Entertainment<br />

Clubs open early, but crank up a few notches<br />

after about 11pm. Happy hour is ubiquitous<br />

and generally entails two-for-one on beer or<br />

certain mixed drinks.<br />

In popular discotecas (beware the word<br />

‘nightclub’ – it is often used in Peru to indicate<br />

a brothel), especially right on the<br />

Plaza de Armas, both sexes should beware<br />

of drinks being spiked. The tried-and-true<br />

stops on the big night out in Cuzco are discotecas<br />

Inka Team, Roots and Ukuku’s.<br />

oUkuku’s<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

(%24-2951; Plateros 316; h8pm-late) The most<br />

consistently popular nightspot in town,<br />

Ukuku’s plays a winning combination of<br />

crowd pleasers – Latin and Western rock,<br />

reggae and reggaetón (a blend of Puerto Rican<br />

bomba, dancehall and hip-hop), salsa,<br />

hip-hop etc – and often hosts live bands.<br />

Usually full to bursting after midnight with<br />

as many Peruvians as foreign tourists, it’s<br />

good, sweaty, dance-a-thon fun. Happy hour<br />

is 8pm to 10:30pm.<br />

Cuzco & the Sacred Valley E C N u T zC E R O TA I N M E N T

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