peru-8-cuzco-sacred-valley
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214<br />
4 Sleeping<br />
Cuzco has hundreds of hotels of all types,<br />
and just about the only thing they have in<br />
common is that they charge some of the<br />
highest room rates in Peru. Cuzco fills to<br />
bursting between June and August, especially<br />
during the 10 days before Inti Raymi<br />
on June 24 and during Fiestas Patrias (Independence<br />
Days) on July 28 and 29. Book in<br />
advance for these dates.<br />
Prices are market driven and vary dramatically<br />
according to the season and<br />
demand. Rates quoted here are for high<br />
season.<br />
Though the Plaza de Armas is the most<br />
central area, you won’t find any bargains<br />
there, and accommodations along Av El Sol<br />
tend to be bland, expensive and set up for<br />
tour groups. As Cuzco is such a compact<br />
city, it’s just as convenient to stay in another<br />
neighborhood nearby. Hilly San Blas has the<br />
best views and is deservedly popular. There<br />
are also many options west of the Plaza de<br />
Armas around Plaza Regocijo, in the commercial<br />
area towards the Mercado Central,<br />
and downhill from the center in the streets<br />
northeast of Av El Sol.<br />
Cuzco & the Sacred Valley Sleeping Cuzco<br />
Many of Cuzco’s guesthouses and hotels<br />
are located in charming colonial buildings<br />
with interior courtyards, which can echo<br />
resoundingly with noise from other guests<br />
or the street outside. Many places that offer<br />
breakfast start serving as early as 5am to accommodate<br />
Inca Trail trekkers and Machu<br />
Picchu day-trippers. For this reason, early<br />
check-ins and check-outs are the rule.<br />
With advance notice, most midrange<br />
and top-end places will pick you up for free<br />
at the airport, the train station or the bus<br />
terminal.<br />
Inquire about hot water for showers<br />
before committing yourself to a hotel. It’s<br />
often sporadic, even in midrange accommodations,<br />
and there’s nothing worse after<br />
a multiday trek than a lukewarm shower! In<br />
some hotels the hot water is more reliable<br />
on some floors than others. It helps to avoid<br />
showering at peak times of day, and it’s always<br />
worth telling reception if you’re having<br />
trouble – they may simply need to flick a<br />
switch or hook up a new gas canister.<br />
All places listed claim to offer 24-hour<br />
hot-water showers, and unless otherwise<br />
noted, midrange and above places include<br />
cable TV and internet access. The top hotels<br />
all feature rooms with heating and telephone;<br />
exceptions are noted in the review.<br />
All top-end and some midrange hotels have<br />
oxygen tanks available, at a price, for altitude<br />
sufferers.<br />
Cuzco’s swanky top-end hotels are usually<br />
booked solid during high season. Reserving<br />
through a travel agency or via the hotel’s<br />
website may result in better rates.<br />
CENTRAL CUZCO<br />
Many of the side streets that climb northwest<br />
away from the Plaza towards Sacsaywamán<br />
(especially Tigre, Tecsecocha, Suecia,<br />
Kiskapata, Resbalosa and 7 Culebras) are<br />
bursting with cheap crash pads. High-end<br />
hotels on the plaza are often overpriced.<br />
oEcopackers HOSTEL $<br />
(Map p198; %23-1800; www.ecopackers<strong>peru</strong>.com;<br />
Santa Teresa 375; dm S25-41, d/ste S120/135; iW)<br />
Thought has been put into this big backpacker<br />
haven that’s a stone’s throw from<br />
Plaza Regocijo. One of the all-inclusives<br />
(with bar, pool room and sunbathing), it ups<br />
the ante by being clean, friendly and serviceminded.<br />
There’s lovely wicker lounges in<br />
the courtyard and the sturdy beds are extralong.<br />
There’s also 24-hour security.<br />
oInkaterra La Casona BOUTIQUE HOTel$$$<br />
(Map p198; %23-5873; www.lacasona.info; Atocsaycuchi<br />
616; suites incl breakfast from US$410; iW)<br />
Hitting the perfect balance of cozy and high<br />
style, this renovated grand colonial in tiny<br />
Plazoleta Nazarenas is simply debonair. Rustic<br />
meets majestic with original features like<br />
oversized carved doors, rough-hewn beams<br />
and stone fireplaces are enhanced with radiant<br />
floors, glittering candelabras, plush divans<br />
and gorgeous Andean textiles.<br />
Even though the telly is tucked away, tech<br />
isn’t far with laptop loans and iPod docks.<br />
Service is impeccable and highly personal.<br />
Niños Hotel HOTEL $$<br />
(%23-1424, 25-4611; www.ninoshotel.com; Meloc<br />
442; s/d without bathroom US$25/50, d/tr with<br />
bathroom US$55/79; iW) Long beloved and<br />
highly recommended, these hotels are run<br />
by a Dutch-founded nonprofit foundation<br />
that serves underprivileged children in<br />
Cuzco. Both are in rambling colonials with<br />
sunny courtyards. Refurbished rooms are<br />
bordered with bright trim and feature plaid<br />
throws and portable heaters. In the coldest<br />
months there’s hot water bottles to tuck in<br />
bed.<br />
The public cafeteria features homemade<br />
cakes and breads as well as box lunches.