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Evergreen

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118 EVERGREEN Autumn<br />

(continued)<br />

roadside digger — by means of sign<br />

language and the help of a local<br />

policeman while bemused villagers<br />

looked on.<br />

In 1968 another Ford Corsair was<br />

hoisted aboard the Bergen Line ship<br />

Leda and we sailed from Newcastle<br />

to Norway, overtaken by a midnight<br />

storm. Almost everyone was seasick<br />

— even my father, an experienced<br />

ex-Merchant Navy sailor. I was<br />

nearly tossed out of my bunk; not<br />

that I cared, I felt so ill. My mother,<br />

stomach intact, was one of only a<br />

handful of passengers who joined<br />

the Captain for breakfast in an eerily<br />

deserted dining room.<br />

When Leda stopped rolling<br />

and cruised with delightful rocksteadiness<br />

up the beautiful Bergen<br />

Fjord, I suddenly realised I had<br />

Dover was the starting point for the<br />

family’s Swiss adventure. DAVID HUNTER<br />

scarcely felt better in my life.<br />

Dazzling sunshine, blue water and<br />

lush green islands made our first<br />

view of Scandinavia look like a<br />

tropical landfall, but once out of<br />

Bergen we knew we were in fjord<br />

country. Amid magnificent scenery<br />

most of the roads were surfaced<br />

with loose gravel. This was ruinous<br />

to car paintwork and slitheringly<br />

dangerous; never more so on than<br />

on the notorious Stalheim Hill, as<br />

near vertical a drop as I have ever<br />

experienced in a car. But my mother<br />

kept the heavily-laden Ford in a<br />

straight line and we survived to<br />

celebrate with bigger meals than we<br />

had ever seen. When we ordered<br />

chicken we got a whole one — each!<br />

Sea trout meant just that: a whole<br />

sea trout, which is a lot of fish for

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