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Jeweller - December 2020

• Survival lessons: Essential business tips learned from a year of upheaval • Full state of play: a comprehensive report into the Australian jewellery industry in 2020 • Show stoppers: standout jewellery pieces from local talents

• Survival lessons: Essential business tips learned from a year of upheaval
• Full state of play: a comprehensive report into the Australian jewellery industry in 2020
• Show stoppers: standout jewellery pieces from local talents

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Editor’s Desk<br />

Listening to the heartbeat of the jewellery trade<br />

What happens when the Australian jewellery industry undergoes an intense medical examination?<br />

ANGELA HAN checks the vitals and shares her findings.<br />

Every word that could describe the global<br />

pandemic has already been written.<br />

The events of <strong>2020</strong> will be recorded in<br />

history’s pages as a central turning point in<br />

the way we view the world and the things<br />

that we value.<br />

Undoubtedly, it’s been an extraordinary year,<br />

one that deserves introspection and analysis<br />

as it draws to an end.<br />

If you wanted to know what the Australian<br />

jewellery industry looks like today in the midst<br />

of an economic crisis, then you’re in luck.<br />

By sheer coincidence, this month is the<br />

10-year anniversary of our 2010 State of<br />

the Industry Report (SOTIR). In a way, this<br />

<strong>2020</strong> update happens to be our contribution<br />

to the pages of history.<br />

A decade ago <strong>Jeweller</strong> researched and<br />

compiled the first-ever comprehensive<br />

analysis of the Australian jewellery industry;<br />

we analysed the core segments of the trade<br />

from fashion and fine jewellery stores to<br />

chain and brand-only and flagship stores.<br />

It was an exhaustive investigation into<br />

the status and health of the trade, which<br />

revealed some very interesting insights.<br />

Much like a medical examination, data was<br />

meticulously recorded and every aspect of<br />

the industry was analysed in-depth.<br />

Indeed, some of the findings of the<br />

2010 report flew in the face of what was<br />

considered conventional wisdom or<br />

common knowledge about Australia’s<br />

retail jewellery market.<br />

In other words, a lot of what was believed<br />

was wrong or, at least, not supported by the<br />

research. Debunking ‘conventional wisdom’<br />

is part of the media’s role.<br />

While our <strong>2020</strong> State of the Industry Report<br />

reviews many aspects of the market, at the<br />

beginning of this year it was our intention<br />

to include an analysis of the most important<br />

industry category - independent jewellery<br />

stores.<br />

However, the COVID pandemic not only<br />

dramatically affected our ability to undertake<br />

the research but, more importantly, the<br />

resulting economic crisis could, and has,<br />

had a major impact on jewellery stores to<br />

the extent that some have closed.<br />

For that reason, we decided to research<br />

and quantify the number of independent<br />

jewellers after the <strong>2020</strong> Christmas trading<br />

period to better compare the results.<br />

As you will discover, our <strong>2020</strong> SOTIR reveals<br />

that fine jewellery chains have remained<br />

resilient over the ensuing 10 years.<br />

In 2010 we reported on the rise of fashion<br />

jewellery chains, however, a decade later<br />

they are all but gone.<br />

While 63 per cent of fashion jewellery chain<br />

stores closed, there was only a 13 per cent<br />

reduction in the number of fine jewellery<br />

chain stores.<br />

In fact, of the seven fashion chains that<br />

existed in 2010, we discover today that six<br />

have collapsed and/or closed their doors!<br />

While the past decade has resulted in the<br />

demise of fashion jewellery chains, back<br />

in 2010, we identified 128 brand-only and<br />

flagship stores, however today there are<br />

220 - a 72 per cent increase in presence.<br />

What we found surprising is the number<br />

of high-end ‘prestige’ brands that have<br />

expanded into Australia courtesy of<br />

international luxury good conglomerates.<br />

The Australian jewellery industry in 2010<br />

was beginning to recover from the global<br />

financial crisis (GFC), which hit the world<br />

from 2007-2009.<br />

Interestingly, CommSec’s 2010 Economic<br />

Insights report announced that the sales of<br />

jewellery, watches, and clocks rose 10.3 per<br />

cent, while spending across other industries<br />

decreased during the same period.<br />

Spending on tools and equipment was down<br />

6.7 per cent, while air travel (4.4), gambling<br />

(2.5) and cigarettes (0.8) all suffered.<br />

Even spending on essential goods and<br />

services was down against jewellery!<br />

A decade later in the midst of a global<br />

pandemic, LVMH stock prices have reached<br />

its highest trade ever at 496.90 EUR since<br />

it first listed on the stock exchange in 1990,<br />

while Pandora and Tiffany stock prices also<br />

continue to soar.<br />

Hong Kong retailer Chow Tai Fook is<br />

trading better than this time last year<br />

and both Michael Hill International and the<br />

The <strong>2020</strong> State<br />

of the Industry<br />

Report update<br />

happens to be<br />

our contribution<br />

to the pages of<br />

history.<br />

US chain, Signet Jewelers, are steadily<br />

recovering since the huge sell off in the<br />

depths of the crisis.<br />

On home soil, jewellery management<br />

consultancy firm Retail Edge released<br />

positive reports of increased sales across<br />

its 450 customers in Australia and NZ.<br />

Reports released since June indicate<br />

that sales have been bouyant despite<br />

the pandemic.<br />

Indeed, there was a 23 per cent increase<br />

in September sales compared to last<br />

year, despite Victoria remaining in Stage 4<br />

lockdown. October’s report indicates that<br />

sales were also up 20 per cent, revealing a<br />

positive growth trend which is predicted to<br />

continue through the holiday trading.<br />

In amidst the chaos, a pattern appears<br />

to be emerging.<br />

Like discovering a speck of gold at the<br />

bottom of a murky pan, turbulent times<br />

appear to be an opportunity for jewellers<br />

who confront challenges with open eyes<br />

and a positive attitude.<br />

What is fast is fleeting, but what is<br />

meaningful can last forever.<br />

Humans will always yearn to be<br />

surrounded by things that are expressive,<br />

beautiful and unchanging, a sentiment that<br />

appears to be magnified during times of<br />

uncertainty.<br />

Be it through an economic crisis or<br />

through a pandemic, people don’t stop<br />

creating memories, celebrating milestones<br />

and falling in love.<br />

A glance back at the past decade has<br />

revealed this insight: consumers have<br />

chosen jewellery, through times both<br />

thick and thin. As long as there is a deep<br />

human experience to celebrate, there will<br />

always be a purpose for jewellers.<br />

To ensure you remain up to date with these<br />

insights and research reports, subscribe<br />

to our eNewseletter and connect with us<br />

to keep track of vitals and listen to the<br />

heartbeat of the industry.<br />

Angela Han<br />

Publisher<br />

<strong>December</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 13

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