Jeweller - December 2020
• Survival lessons: Essential business tips learned from a year of upheaval • Full state of play: a comprehensive report into the Australian jewellery industry in 2020 • Show stoppers: standout jewellery pieces from local talents
• Survival lessons: Essential business tips learned from a year of upheaval
• Full state of play: a comprehensive report into the Australian jewellery industry in 2020
• Show stoppers: standout jewellery pieces from local talents
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HILLS AND VALLEYS<br />
KEY MOMENTS FOR<br />
MICHAEL HILL<br />
It’s been a topsy-turvy decade for Michael Hill<br />
International. Following the opening of his first<br />
store in 1979 in the New Zealand town of<br />
Whangarei, jeweller Michael Hill became well<br />
known for unique designs and utilised highimpact<br />
advertising to elevate the business to<br />
national prominence.<br />
The company grew steadily, and by 1987 it had<br />
10 stores and was listed on the New Zealand<br />
Stock Exchange (NZX). At the same time, the<br />
company expanded into Australia, opening<br />
four stores in Brisbane over four weeks.<br />
In 2002, the company opened five stores in<br />
Canada and six years later made inroads into<br />
the US market by acquiring and re-branding<br />
17 stores from Whitehall Jewelers.<br />
In January 2011, and the age of 72, founder<br />
Michael Hill was granted a knighthood in<br />
New Zealand’s New Year Honours List.<br />
After a long and illustrious career, Sir Michael<br />
retired as his namesake company’s chairman<br />
in November 2015 and the following year<br />
Michael Hill International (MHI) was listed on<br />
the Australian Stock Exchange (ASX).<br />
At the time, 60 per cent of its stores were in<br />
Australia and more than 80 per cent of MHI’s<br />
revenue and profits were generated outside of<br />
New Zealand.<br />
The company began trading on 7 July 2016 at $1.15<br />
per share. At the time of publication its share price<br />
was $AU0.32 on the ASX and $NZ0.34 on the NZX.<br />
The company’s <strong>2020</strong> Annual Report recorded a total<br />
of 290 stores; 155 stores in Australia (dropping to<br />
154 by <strong>December</strong> <strong>2020</strong>), 49 in New Zealand and 86<br />
in Canada. It reported revenue of $492 million and<br />
post-tax profit of $3 million.<br />
In October 2016 the Hill family trust, Hoglett<br />
Hamlet, sold 10 per cent of its stake – 16 million<br />
shares – in MHI for $25.6 million. However, it<br />
remains the company’s largest shareholder,<br />
owning 38 per cent of the company.<br />
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 42<br />
restructured and four months later a new<br />
store was opened at Melbourne’s Westfield<br />
Fountain Gate.<br />
Then, in <strong>December</strong> 2015, the chain opened<br />
a new Melbourne CBD store, having exited<br />
Bourke Street Mall in 2011 when it was<br />
“outbid” by Swarosvki for the ‘flagship’<br />
location where it had been mall positioned<br />
for more than a decade.<br />
At the time, Michelle Beville said, “The<br />
lease was up and we put in a bid to renew,<br />
however the landlord decided to go out to<br />
market after international interest [from<br />
other retailers].<br />
“International players have come to town<br />
and they have the ability to pay fabulous<br />
rent. The right rent moving forward [for<br />
smaller companies] is difficult, due to these<br />
international companies.”<br />
In October 2017, Indian jewellery company<br />
Tara Jewels acquired a 49 per cent stake<br />
in Bevilles, four years after forming a<br />
“strategic alliance” with the Australian<br />
jewellery retailer.<br />
While the recent history of Bevilles is<br />
tumultuous, its current position perhaps<br />
indicates the resilience of its management.<br />
After ‘losing’ the high-profile Bourke Street<br />
Mall store and entering administration, the<br />
business was subsequently rebuilt, bringing<br />
its store count back to 24 – close to its peak<br />
of 29 in 2010.<br />
By anyone’s reckoning, that’s no mean feat.<br />
Another Victorian-based chain has also<br />
proved quite resilient over the past 10 years.<br />
Salera’s began 2010 with 21 stores – 15 in<br />
Victoria and six in Queensland – increasing<br />
to 23 the following year.<br />
Alfredo Salera founded the business in 1953;<br />
by <strong>December</strong> <strong>2020</strong>, its store count was 18 –<br />
a sustained record for a family-owned and<br />
operated mid-sized chain.<br />
Hoskings <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has also proved<br />
relatively robust. It made <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s list in<br />
2010 with 17 stores, and today the Victorian-<br />
IN SUMM A RY<br />
Insights<br />
Fashion<br />
jewellery chain<br />
stores have<br />
seen a massive<br />
decline, due<br />
to increased<br />
competition<br />
and occupancy<br />
costs<br />
Fine jewellery<br />
chain stores<br />
have remained<br />
resilient, when<br />
compared with<br />
both fashion<br />
jewellery and<br />
the broader<br />
discretionary<br />
category<br />
Fine and<br />
fashion<br />
jewellery<br />
remain<br />
differentiated<br />
in the market<br />
Large jewellery<br />
groups have<br />
maintained<br />
control of<br />
fine jewellery<br />
chains<br />
Lovisa has<br />
become the<br />
dominant<br />
player in<br />
fashion<br />
jewellery, with<br />
152 stores<br />
and no major<br />
competitors<br />
based jeweller still operates 16 outlets.<br />
The company also owns the Goldsmith<br />
brand, which has been less fortunate;<br />
seven stores were closed in the past<br />
10 years, with its numbers falling from<br />
nine to two.<br />
With that said, three Goldsmith stores<br />
were converted to Pandora ‘Concept<br />
stores’; Hoskings now operates six<br />
Pandora stores in total (see page 40).<br />
The 2010 SOIR also detailed that Hoskings<br />
owned and operated four other jewellery<br />
stores: three under the Sterns brand and<br />
one Diamond House. These stores no<br />
longer exist.<br />
Once again, taking into account the demise<br />
of many high profile and long-standing<br />
retail businesses across the apparel<br />
and fashion accessory categories, the<br />
resilience of fine jewellers is impressive.<br />
Other well-known names that have stood<br />
the test of time include NSW’s Gregory<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s and Regency <strong>Jeweller</strong>s.<br />
In 2010 Gregory <strong>Jeweller</strong>s was listed as<br />
a small-sized chain with 16 stores, and<br />
today it has 15.<br />
While one Gregory store was technically<br />
closed, it was converted to a Gucci store<br />
operated by Gregorys.<br />
Another small chain, Regency <strong>Jeweller</strong>s,<br />
which was founded in 1968, has also fared<br />
well. It operated six stores throughout<br />
regional NSW in 2010 and it still operates<br />
the same number today.<br />
The same cannot be said for the<br />
Queensland based Anthonys Fine<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s.<br />
It was listed with eight stores in the<br />
2010 SOIR, however today it has been<br />
reduced to five across Brisbane. Owned<br />
by Queensland Wholesalers, the company<br />
also operated three Kings <strong>Jeweller</strong>s stores<br />
in 2010 – all of which have ceased trading.<br />
While Anthonys, with five stores, continues<br />
to be defined as a ‘chain’, the same<br />
cannot be said for Brisbane-based Pascoe<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s or Melbourne-based Dio Oro<br />
<strong>Jeweller</strong>s, which was re-branded to<br />
Diamond Valley <strong>Jeweller</strong>s this year.<br />
Both have suffered over the past 10 years.<br />
Pascoe closed six stores (from nine to<br />
three) and a seventh – located in Ipswich,<br />
Queensland – is scheduled to close on<br />
Christmas Eve this year, due to owner<br />
Geoff Pascoe’s ill health.<br />
Dio Oro has reduced its store count from<br />
seven to one. Therefore, both businesses<br />
have been removed from <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />
‘chain’ store list, along with Goldsmith, as<br />
mentioned previously.<br />
While the wider Australian non-essential<br />
(discretionary spend) retail industry has<br />
suffered greatly in the past decade, it’s<br />
fair to say that many industry experts<br />
had predicted bleaker times for fine<br />
jewellery chains.<br />
In the past decade only two names<br />
disappeared altogether and, although<br />
there has been a net loss of 118 stores<br />
from the original 978, 63 closures were<br />
from Zamels alone.<br />
Reviewing the past 10–15 years – the first<br />
of <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s analysis of jewellery chains<br />
was published in 2003 – many jewellers<br />
lamented the rise of, and competition<br />
from, fashion jewellery.<br />
It was viewed as ‘cheap product’, however,<br />
this category has been impacted most by<br />
changes in the retail sector.<br />
To that end, fine jewellery retailers<br />
have demonstrated an adaptability and<br />
buoyancy over the past decade that<br />
was not only unexpected, but should be<br />
celebrated given the current times.<br />
Editor’s note: A previous version of this<br />
report was published digitally in July <strong>2020</strong>.<br />
This version includes updated figures that<br />
were correct as at 1 <strong>December</strong> <strong>2020</strong>. It<br />
should be recognised that even though some<br />
jewellery websites remain “live”, this does not<br />
mean the business or its bricks-and-mortar<br />
stores still operate.<br />
<strong>December</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 45