No. 27 - Its Gran Canaria Magazine

24
GET TO KNOW GRAN CANARIA I CONOCE GRAN CANARIA EDICIÓN 27
El Hornillo
A remote and privileged hamlet nestling
in the heart of Gran Canaria
Gran Canaria is an island packed full of surprises
and boasts places well worth discovering. In this article,
we will journey right to the heart of the island
and discover its more rural and uninhabited side.
Flanked by terraced plantations, the tranquillity of
the hamlet of El Hornillo invites us to disconnect
from the frenetic pace of urban life, while at the
same time encouraging us to connect with nature
in its most peaceful guise.
In the municipality of Agaete, approximately 750
metres above sea level, lies the secluded village
of El Hornillo. Less than 20 residents are fortunate
enough to live in this area that exudes charm and
solitude in equal measure. Here, people live life at a
slower pace and there is a tranquillity that is impossible
to find in the more touristy areas of the island.
It is 5.10 in the afternoon in the square and there is
no human presence to be seen, and time seems to
stand still, allowing us to fully appreciate the area’s
natural charm.
The views from here are simply wonderful. El Hornillo
overlooks the ravine of Agaete, on one of the many
privileged balconies of this geographical feature.
This tiny hamlet has no more than the street that
leads you to it and ends in a tiny car park that holds
just a few cars. Next to it is the square that houses El
Refugio, the only place to eat, and the pretty chapel
of Santa Teresita, which waits until the third Sunday
in June to celebrate its fiesta. However, this solitary
corner of the island invites visitors to get to know its
other side, one that is not visible at first sight and
which is concealed behind the high volcanic tuff
walls of the mountain.
If there is one thing that characterises this hamlet, it
is that the housing that predominates here is of the
troglodyte type. They are caves and terraces carved
out of the rock, a fundamental element of the
pre-Hispanic culture that the island has inherited.
Cave houses are one of its signs of identity, houses
carved out of a type of light, porous rock such as
volcanic tuff, formed by the accumulation of ashes
and other very small elements that enabled the
difficult task of carving this material by the island’s
ancient settlers and which today continue to shelter
the few remaining inhabitants from the winds and
other inclement weather conditions.
The terraced plantations in the surrounding area
are a treasure well worth discovering. Here, people
have directly intervened in the mountain structures
and ravines to modify their natural form and water
function in order to use them for agriculture. Several
of these interventions are often carried out on
the same slope, creating a combination of plains
and escarpments to which stone walls are often
attached. These modifications are an example of
ingenious human adaptation to adverse environmental
conditions for cultivation, and are a way of
overcoming the scarcity of flat surfaces and lack of
water. These cultural landscapes required a great
deal of labour and local country wisdom to build
and cultivate, and are a legacy of our ancestors who
used them to feed generations of dwellers. Furthermore,
the beauty of these plantations is undeniable
and impressive, and they represent yet another
opportunity to enjoy the landscapes that El Hornillo
has to offer.
Another highly popular activity that can be done
in this area and that helps to better appreciate the
beauty of the landscape is hiking. The hamlet of El
Hornillo offers several different options, suitable for
all levels of difficulty. One of them is even perfect for
discovering another of this region’s jewels, namely
Los Pérez reservoir. The reservoir is surrounded by a
pine forest and a surrounding dirt track at the foot
of mountains with more cave houses. In addition,
there is another hiking route that takes visitors to
the Archaeological Site of Risco Caído, which is not
far from here. This place of worship is also of troglodyte
type and is made up of 21 caves featuring important
cave paintings related to magical-religious
beliefs and fertility cults. One of these caves has a
small light entrance in its vault that allows a beam
of light to pass through it from the summer to the
autumn solstice, which is projected onto the walls
and illuminates a series of cave engravings. For this
reason, many archaeologists believe that Risco Caído
may have served as a prehistoric astronomical
marker.
Without a doubt, El Hornillo is the perfect spot for
anyone looking to get away from their day to day
lives and get close to nature, to adventure and,
above all, to enjoy some peace and quiet and rest.