GG_N53_PORT_Complet-web_V2

PORTUGAL
EXPORT
JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA’S VINEYARDS ARE MAINLY LOCATED ON SETÚBAL PENINSULA
T
he era when Portuguese wines for overseas markets were invariably Port or Madeira
is now long gone. The storied Douro Valley is now also renowned for its dry, fresh still
wines, alongside its celebrated fortified offerings. Outside the region, other areas have
gained traction, like Alentejo with its full-bodied, fruity reds or Vinho Verde and its young,
crisp whites that have become extremely popular. Despite the fact the appellation borders
the Port vineyards, its image could not be further removed from that of the neighbouring
fortified tipples. Sporting a near-on transparent colour, they display trademark acidity
and faint beading, light-years away from the rich, powerful style of Port.
Obviously, the contrast in styles acts as a magnet for an international audience, especially
when the country’s wine proposition aligns with a number of consumer trends, including
a taste for light, fresh pours and the appeal of ‘authentic’ wines honouring their birthplace.
Portuguese producers can pride themselves on a long-standing history of making wine
and have often focused on regionality. In fact, a defining feature of the Portuguese wine
industry is its wealth of native grape varieties – both red and white – which are said to
exceed 300 in number. Also, from a genetic perspective, these local varieties differ greatly
from other Old World cultivars, bar those of the South of France.
Winegrowers do not only safeguard the typicity of their wines, though. Over the past few
years, they have also embraced modern winemaking techniques in a bid to improve quality.
European funding for this has been a valuable resource. The decision to favour a quality
production model that steers away from productivity has borne fruit – Portugal is now
the world’s eighth largest wine exporter with exports rising both by volume and value.
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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