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1 The Director of Photography – an overview

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126 Practical Cinematography<br />

Figure 14.6 <strong>The</strong> colour<br />

temperature <strong>of</strong> sunlight at<br />

different times <strong>of</strong> day<br />

Direct sunlight Shadow Deep shadow<br />

i.e. meter turned away<br />

from the sun<br />

8.30 a.m.<br />

4500°K 5300°K 6400°K<br />

Noon<br />

5350°K 4550°K 5450°K<br />

direct sunlight <strong>an</strong>d the shadowed readings are almost tr<strong>an</strong>sposed in<br />

the three <strong>an</strong>d a half hours from morning to noon.<br />

Correcting lamps<br />

Correcting may not be <strong>an</strong> entirely accurate word in this context. We<br />

use it when we w<strong>an</strong>t to convert a tungsten lamp to daylight or a daylight<br />

lamp to tungsten. You c<strong>an</strong>, <strong>of</strong> course, make partial conversions,<br />

as we shall see.<br />

To convert a tungsten lamp to daylight you must put a full colour<br />

temperature blue (CTB) filter in front <strong>of</strong> the lamp.You will lose a considerable<br />

amount <strong>of</strong> brightness as, in effect, the lamp has become much<br />

less efficient.To convert a daylight lamp (say <strong>an</strong> HMI) to tungsten you<br />

must put a full colour temperature or<strong>an</strong>ge (CTO) filter in front <strong>of</strong> the<br />

lamp.Again, you will lose a considerable amount <strong>of</strong> brightness, though<br />

not quite as much as in the previous example.<br />

To convert a daylight scene for tungsten-bal<strong>an</strong>ced film you put a<br />

Wratten 85 filter on the camera.<br />

Of course, you c<strong>an</strong> make partial conversions for the sake <strong>of</strong> art. For<br />

inst<strong>an</strong>ce, if you were to film <strong>an</strong> interior that had a practical window<br />

in the shot with a daylight scene outside it <strong>an</strong>d you wished the window<br />

to be just a little colder th<strong>an</strong> the interior, thus heightening the feeling<br />

<strong>of</strong> separation between the interior <strong>an</strong>d the exterior, then you might<br />

decide to achieve this as follows:<br />

1 <strong>The</strong> exterior you c<strong>an</strong> do little about without going to considerable<br />

trouble, so leave it as daylight, say 5600°K.<br />

2 Light the interior with light corrected to half daylight, say 4200°K.<br />

You achieve this by using tungsten lamps with half blue filter (half<br />

CTB) or daylight lamps with half or<strong>an</strong>ge filter (half CTO). Which<br />

you choose matters little, it just depends which is more convenient.<br />

3 You now have <strong>an</strong> exterior that appears colder th<strong>an</strong> the interior. If<br />

you correct the camera to the interior you have achieved the<br />

objective. You do this by using tungsten-bal<strong>an</strong>ced film <strong>an</strong>d putting<br />

on the lens a filter equivalent to a half CTO. This filter is the<br />

Wratten 85C (Mired shift value ��81).<br />

Now camera <strong>an</strong>d interior are in harmony <strong>an</strong>d the exterior appears a<br />

little cool. This c<strong>an</strong> be a very pleasing effect.<br />

It has become part <strong>of</strong> the mythology <strong>of</strong> filming that, in the above<br />

example, you should use a Wratten 81EF camera filter. Please do not<br />

do this.<strong>The</strong> 81EF was designed specifically for pr<strong>of</strong>essional Ectachrome<br />

film. It is nowhere near a half 85 <strong>an</strong>d produces some very unpleas<strong>an</strong>t

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