1 The Director of Photography – an overview
1 The Director of Photography – an overview
1 The Director of Photography – an overview
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Camera filters 129<br />
85C Half the correction <strong>of</strong> the straight 85 <strong>–</strong> <strong>of</strong>ten used<br />
when interior is lit to the same colour bal<strong>an</strong>ce, so<br />
that <strong>an</strong>y exterior, say through a window, appears<br />
slightly cold.<br />
All these filters also come with a neutral density built into them. For<br />
the 85 these are available as 85BN3, 85BN6 <strong>an</strong>d 85BN9. Each unit <strong>of</strong> 3<br />
st<strong>an</strong>ds for a density <strong>of</strong> 0.3, which exactly halves the light passing through<br />
the filter. <strong>The</strong>refore, <strong>an</strong> 85BN3 reduces the exposure by <strong>an</strong> extra stop<br />
in addition to the two-thirds <strong>of</strong> a stop correction needed for the<br />
straight 85. Likewise, the 85BN6 reduces the exposure by two stops<br />
<strong>an</strong>d the 85BN9 by three stops, again in addition to the straight 85.<br />
Skin tone warmer<br />
A Tiffen 812 is very effective in warming up skin tone while having a<br />
negligible effect on the other colours in the scene. This is particularly<br />
useful for a close-up on a cold day.<br />
Sepia, coral, colour effects, etc.<br />
Just as you would expect from their names, these filters lend <strong>an</strong> overall<br />
colour tint to the scene. Sepia <strong>an</strong>d coral do to the film roughly what<br />
you will see in the viewfinder, but some <strong>of</strong> the more esoteric filters, say<br />
tobacco, whisky, suede, etc., c<strong>an</strong> come out on film a little differently<br />
th<strong>an</strong> they look to the naked eye. Coloured filters <strong>of</strong>ten absorb quite a<br />
lot <strong>of</strong> light to perform their trick. If you intend to use the heavier filters<br />
I strongly recommend you shoot a test under identical lighting before<br />
commencing your principal photography <strong>–</strong> this is not to say that they<br />
c<strong>an</strong>not be very effective, it is just rather surprising to find exactly what<br />
they do sometimes.<br />
Graduated filters<br />
Grads, as they are always known, are usually coloured or neutral density<br />
filters. <strong>The</strong>y are used to colour, or darken, one part <strong>of</strong> a scene without<br />
affecting the rest <strong>of</strong> the scene.<br />
If, for inst<strong>an</strong>ce, you were using a neutral density grad to attenuate a<br />
sky that was too bright, then you would need a filter taller th<strong>an</strong> the<br />
actual frame size so that you would have enough to slide up <strong>an</strong>d down<br />
in order to place the edge <strong>of</strong> the grad accurately on the skyline. If your<br />
st<strong>an</strong>dard filter size was 4 in. � 4 in., then you would order your grads<br />
in 4 in. � 6 in.A 0.6 (i.e. two stops) neutral density grad is probably the<br />
most useful <strong>–</strong> I always carry one. Grads c<strong>an</strong> be ordered with either a<br />
‘hard’ or a ‘s<strong>of</strong>t’ edge. I find s<strong>of</strong>t-edged grads are usually the more successful.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y are usually supplied where the maximum density <strong>of</strong> the<br />
filter is either 0.3, 0.6 or 0.9. <strong>The</strong> lighter one would, for inst<strong>an</strong>ce, be<br />
referred to as a point three ND grad.<br />
Coloured grads are used less <strong>of</strong>ten th<strong>an</strong> simple ND grads. I carry a<br />
full set <strong>of</strong> coral grads <strong>an</strong>d a few blue grads.With these I c<strong>an</strong> turn almost<br />
<strong>an</strong>y time <strong>of</strong> day into early morning or sunset, with both effects available<br />
in a cool or warm version. <strong>The</strong> joy <strong>of</strong> using them is that what you see